Bilstein Shock top bolt alingment
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Joined: May 2018
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Bilstein Shock top bolt alingment
I am changing out the B6 shocks on my '77 and the right side was apiece of cake. Keep in mind that I have also replaced the old original struts with Van Steel adjustables. Now for the major frustration getting the left side Shock installed. I installed the bottom location with no issues. ;however, the top of the Shock was way inboard of the shock mount. ( Both struts were measured against the old strut dimensions). I changrd the lingth of the left strut so it was close to being under the shck mount, then jacking it up onto place. The bolt went in through the metal sleeve of the shock but it would not line up with the back hole of the inboard bracket. I took a drift punch and was able to line up the rear but as soon as I took it out the shock would relax and go back into the original position. I have been fghting this monster for 2 days and have no idea how to get the bolt through the back hole.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2020
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From: Wisconsin
You have the lower end of the shock already mounted and you are struggling with the top mount?
I’d mount the top first and then the bottom. The bottom you can muscle around easier than the top.
Since you have adjustable struts, you can leave the diff end of the strut off, to allow some movement at the wheel, then when you have everything started together at the wheel, you can change the length of the strut to align with the diff mount, put the bolt in, and then adjust your strut back where you want it.
I’d mount the top first and then the bottom. The bottom you can muscle around easier than the top.
Since you have adjustable struts, you can leave the diff end of the strut off, to allow some movement at the wheel, then when you have everything started together at the wheel, you can change the length of the strut to align with the diff mount, put the bolt in, and then adjust your strut back where you want it.
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Or, leave the bottom on. Get the top bolt started. Then jack up or lower the trailing arm until you can tap the bolt in.
can't see the misalignment, so I don't know what direction you need the go.
can't see the misalignment, so I don't know what direction you need the go.
Old Pro Solo Guy
Joined: Dec 2017
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From: Marlton NJ
Rear?
Poly shock bushings?
My QA-1 adjustable do.
One of mine wine was very tight too, but worked.
I will bet you have a slightly mis-aligned top bracket by the factory some 50 years ago. Thsee piece welded frames weren't all that precise. The rubber bushings in the OEM shocks allowed things to flex enough to line up.
Exactly perpendicular to those upper bolt holes and you miss the lower shock connector bolt right?
If you now have stiffer poly bushings in the top shock eye, it is much harder to get that bushing to flex enough to line up.
Options:
- Go back to rubber top shock bushing.
- Heat and or bend upper bracket.
- Mount top, lower strut rod unhooked inside, T/Arm will move around more, force shock into place.
- The trailing arm - hub moves in an arc and travels left/right near 3" as the suspension moves. Jack the arm up or down and it may align. Even remove the rear spring if needed to get more up/down left/right movement.
But if there is a lot of pressure/flexing on the poly bushing, all the time, I do not believe it will hold up long term. Rubber will stand up to a lot of flexing.
Poly shock bushings?
My QA-1 adjustable do.
One of mine wine was very tight too, but worked.
I will bet you have a slightly mis-aligned top bracket by the factory some 50 years ago. Thsee piece welded frames weren't all that precise. The rubber bushings in the OEM shocks allowed things to flex enough to line up.
Exactly perpendicular to those upper bolt holes and you miss the lower shock connector bolt right?
If you now have stiffer poly bushings in the top shock eye, it is much harder to get that bushing to flex enough to line up.
Options:
- Go back to rubber top shock bushing.
- Heat and or bend upper bracket.
- Mount top, lower strut rod unhooked inside, T/Arm will move around more, force shock into place.
- The trailing arm - hub moves in an arc and travels left/right near 3" as the suspension moves. Jack the arm up or down and it may align. Even remove the rear spring if needed to get more up/down left/right movement.
But if there is a lot of pressure/flexing on the poly bushing, all the time, I do not believe it will hold up long term. Rubber will stand up to a lot of flexing.
Last edited by leigh1322; Mar 16, 2024 at 09:50 AM.
