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So I had no idea how to build an engine before I took it on 12 years ago for my 74.... I looked on craigslist( I know old school now) and found a freshly machined 4 bolt shorblock for $300. I bought it and tore it down...replaced the rings rehoned and checked all rod connections and clearances. I ended up replacing the crank and bearings due to do grooves fro a previous ring failure and found some dart iron eagle heads with roller rockers for $300used. I bought a new mild lunati cam with recommended lifters and springs and built the engine engine from carb new stainless sidepipes for less than $1500 in 2012... IMO its all about how much research you want to do first. 12 years later and my restomod had never been serviced by a shop. I did the body work , paint, interior, brakes and suspension. I went into all this as a gloried copy machine repair man so YMMV. I hope to get the new OD trans and rear end in this summer. My point is some folks here will try to discourage you tackling yourself (To justify thier own choices or situation) and it really just depends on how determined and capable you are in following and understanding directions.
Ive since Bought bare aluminum casting heads and ported and assembled myself as well as converted fro the original flat tappet cam I installed in 2012 to a comp retro roller setup for about $500 with all new components (another apparently taboo thing here as everyone states its $1000 or more to do here over and over)
great story and just where I'm at, I've always done my own body, paint, suspension, frame and fabrication but never an engine build so here is where it starts. I dont do anything without tons of research... i want to know every obstacle i could run into before i start.
I'm looking forward to the build. I have a nephew who does 1500hp LS builds with two ZL1-1LE cars, hes always trying to talk me into an LS but not what I want, I have an LS3 corvette... I purchased the 80 for no computer controlled anything, I still like some old school.
once I have a machined block on a stand I can start looking onto all my options but gonna stay within my original plan. Thank you.
Just some friendly advice.
Look for a roller block. 87 on up. Also referred to as 1 piece rear main seal. It is already machined for a roller cam. This will save the cost of bar style lifters. Easiest way to tell is the 3 mounting bosses in the lifter valley for the hold down bracket for the dog bones.
Shoot for around 10 to 1 compression. Good power and still gas friendly.
Aluminum cylinder heads in the 180 to 190 CFM range. Standard SBC so you can use standard intakes. Later cylinder heads, read anything 87 on up, will require specific intake manifolds and have limited choices.
A few places are offering "new" blocks so there should be no machining needed. Not sure if they offer "just the block" though. Specifically Smeding and Blueprint. Might be worth a look.
I’m not a small block guy so someone who is might want to step in and comment.
On a big block the later model blocks don’t have the threaded hole for the manual clutch Z Bar and they don’t have the provision for a manual fuel pump.
What are the differences, if any, on the later model sbc blocks that would cause issues for the OP?
The OP stated he wants all his accessories and brackets to bolt up without any issues.
I run the extra thick Fel-Pro valve cover gaskets and short vale covers. Even with 1.6 rockers I don't have any issues. One more vote for a roller/1 piece real seal block. You want rollers, don't even bother with flat hydraulics. I'd never take a 'new' block and just assemble it, without it going to a machine shop first. Trust but verify. Some of those cheap Chinese heads are supposedly good, but buy them bare, most people say the included valve train is junk.
I’m not a small block guy so someone who is might want to step in and comment.
On a big block the later model blocks don’t have the threaded hole for the manual clutch Z Bar and they don’t have the provision for a manual fuel pump.
What are the differences, if any, on the later model sbc blocks that would cause issues for the OP?
The OP stated he wants all his accessories and brackets to bolt up without any issues.
yes there are specific year blocks that had roller cams along with the provision for a fuel pump... also theres the left or right oil dipstick provision
I’m not a small block guy so someone who is might want to step in and comment.
On a big block the later model blocks don’t have the threaded hole for the manual clutch Z Bar and they don’t have the provision for a manual fuel pump.
What are the differences, if any, on the later model sbc blocks that would cause issues for the OP?
The OP stated he wants all his accessories and brackets to bolt up without any issues.
thank you, I believe I am sticking with the 3970010 block, im finding block accessory holes should be common and will be sure to look for the same with heads, only difference is pre 79 uses drivers side dip stick and 80 and later uses passenger side, might effect manifolds but I'm gonna go headers anyway so shouldn't matter, definitely getting a SBC education.
I spoke with a local retired machinist today, he has a fully machined brand new 383 short block... here are the details 383 Chevy Stroker short block. Block is 010 casting 4 bolt bored .030. All rotating assembly parts are brand new. Shortblock is complete and ready for camshaft. Parts include Speedpro pistons w/ Hastings moly rings-@.030. Summit connecting rods are full floaters w/ARP capscrews rated 550 HP. Eagle cast steel crankshaft 3.750 stroke w/ Clevite rod and main bearings standard size. Block is 4 bolt main and clearanced for stroker assembly. Fully balanced rotating assembly w/new harmonic balancer and new flexplate.
Great guy and very close to me and still does machining, i can buy that short block for $1800 which is a great deal as of course i cant get there for that money... he then told me he has another block completely machined 3970010 block .060 over with cam bearings and plugs installed he would sell me for $400, also told me he would balance the rotating assembly after i assembled it for free as he still has all his machines.
Out of town a few days but gonna go see him Wednesday
I am not looking to build the best motor I can, I'm looking to build the best motor i can for the money, I'm OK if it's not a roller block for this one.
