To those who have done a 2004r or 700r4 I thought I would throw this question out there.
my 2004r install is done and went smooth, the transmission was rebuilt within a year or so of my purchase, it functioned in the car it was in and have no reason to believe there is a problem with the trans.
I have been through two TV cables thinking that was the problem, set to pressure from 70-90 PSI at 1000 rpms in park and neutral, 130-180 in reverse and same range in 2nd, 70-90 in drive.
I've played a little with a few clicks in and out on the plunger and frankly never got a good ratchet in my opinion, I read lots of conflicting information when I search pressures etc.
I am not going into 4th (overdrive) had the car up to about 50mph and no overdrive.
Right now when I do a ratchet TV cable process I have a light 1-2 shift about 18mph and I feel a lazy shift from 2-3 about 28mph normal acceleration. I also am not downshifting when i accellorerate.
I spoke with Bowtie Overdrives yesterday for a long time and they think I have a TV adjust and geometry issue, is sent pics of my throttle bracket which i was of the impression this Q-jet has the correct geometry and they said they can't give me an answer if it's good.
when I get home Thursday I am going to send Bowtie a number of pressure readings they are requesting and they will tell me if it's set up good or want to sell me their TV set up which is almost $400 with what they think i need.
is there something else I should be checking? Could something be hung up in the trans? I've had the pan off and all looks good and plunger functions as it should, I have pressure raise as soon as I move the throttle and full TV pull at WOT.
I am attaching a pic of my Q-jet throttle as well as the bracket I used which is the correct bracket.
I feel this is something fairly simple I'm missing and not a bad transmission, it fucntions perfect otherwise.
I don't mind spending the $400 with Bowtie just wanting to know should I be checking something else before I do.

Disregard the slack in the cable, thats the first TV and not adjusted, just hoping someone is familiar with the Q-jet throttle brackets and TV geometry

 

I can't help with the bracket since mine is set up on an L98 engine, but I have this diagram that might be useful, just so you can verify things. Good luck.

200R4 pg 1.pdf

 

Here is a clearer picture

 

Quick test while you have your pressure gauge installed . Have a helper sit in the car with the foot on the brake, disconnect TV cable at the carb , start engine and adjust idle speed to 1000 rpm and record the pressures for each gear including park and neutral D , 3 , 2 and 1 with the cable disconnected .....now do the same test and record the pressures for all gears with you pulling on the cable tight to bottom out the TV valve inside the valve body for max TV pressure .... Reverse should be close to or over 200 pounds at max TV during a idle and Low 1 should be close to 200 if it has any kind of performance valve body


When test driving always adjust for max TV first or burning up the transmission is a possibility , Engine off , disconnect cable , adjust cable adjuster to where not much of the ratchet teeth are showing (cable pulled out), ... now have a helper floor the gas pedal firmly , make sure carburetor does actually open full throttle , bend bracket and adjust bracket for full throttle if it doesn't ... once full throttle pull the TV cable tight to make the valve inside the transmission bottom out and tighten the set screw with no cable slack . this should be max TV pressure when full throttle now ..... test drive your vehicle and if geometry is close it should drive fairly normal during a trip around the block , if all seems better then verify a 3-1 down shift roughly 30 mph , if it has a 3-1 down then loosen cable a few clicks at a time and test drive after each adjustment until you lose the 3-1 down shift , then add just enough clicks to get the 3-1 down shift back

I have the 700 but I'm getting ready to evaluate my 700 with a Edlelbock AFB's that has the TV corrector installed and compare to my T350C's carburetor (which I think I have adjusted pretty good already) , if it cruises better than the Qjet then I will modify my Quadrajet TV attachment point , if not I won't worry about it , my only complaint is a steady cruise 40 to 45 mph transmission is not sure if it wants to shift to fourth or stay in third but I'm being picky because I'm a retired transmission builder

 

The bracket has nothing to do w/the geometry.Its the mounting location of the TV cable on the throttle lever as shown in diagram above.Here is mine for my 2004-r.Yours looks to be in the right location compared to mine

 

Golfobsessed
I do not see a geometry correction bracket on your throttle......unless I am just not seeing it. Correct me if I am wrong. I looked around for a geometry correction bracket for a quadrajet but could not find one.
I did read that folks went to boneyard and took parts off newer cars that came with 200-4Rs and 700-R4s...... if that is available to you then you could start looking.
Otherwise check out what this guy did to correct on his quadrajet cutting and rewelding his bracket to the correct location.....
Looks simple enough but correct me if you already have a geometry corrector and I'm just not seeing it.
He attached pictures of how he cut and welded his bracket and whatnot.

https://purplesagetradingpost.com/su...o/700R4p1.html

and more detailed pictures.... https://purplesagetradingpost.com/su...o/700R4p7.html

AND ---- before you start you check travel on the slug with and assistant, or with a USB/Endoscope camera to your phone or other laptop..... depending on whether you have assistants available. That would pretty much let you know if you are traveling the appropriate distance from slug full out to fully depressed at WOT.

 

I did find some quadrajet tv arm conversion kits for Pontiacs (66-71) and Buicks & Oldsmobile 66-76). You can eyeball them here to see if one is similar to yours.

https://www.everyday-performance.com/tv_arm.htm

 

thanks and I understand that, I was avoiding someone asking if I have the correct mounting bracket for slider location

 

thank you and i do have that, best I can tell my stock q-jet throttle bracket has that goemetry.

 

thank you Eric, that is exactly what Bowtie Overdrives has asked me to do with pressure readings... they want me to run slightly higher RPMs in all those tests, frankly i have yet to test pressure disconnected in fear of not enough pressure and been trying to error on the high side, I haven't dropped below the threshold range.
when I get home I am going to run those same pressures.
no bracket bending and appears WOT and full TV pull are at the same point... right now it is about 3-4 clicks out, ive had it a flew clicks tighter and 1-2 shift was firmer around 22mph, where its at is a lazy 1-2 shift at 18mph, I feel a little too lazy

 

thanks Julian, good stuff, I had the pan off for slug movement and appears it's moving its full length with TV pull but I'm gonna remove the pan again, I know some of the Q-jet throttle brackets have the correct geometry and guessing early 80s and up have that for sure as most accommodated 2004r or 700r4... I do not have an additional 2004r relocation pin as I was of the impression mine was correct... I could be wrong and will determine that when I get back home, thanks again

 

thanks and that's what I thought too, my center pivot shaft is equal distance and offset to both the throttle pin and TV cable pin

 

I will post my pressure results in all above parameters before I start looking at what else would keep it from going into overdrive

 

On my 700r4 install I used the bowtie adjustable bracket that clamps over the carb arm and allows adjustment of the firmness of the **** points.

 

I will use their setup of needed, I just want to make sure I need it, don't want to pay $400 if I have another issue going on or just need a relocation kit.

 

I tried to upload a photo from my phone, but it won't go thru for some reason. Will try again when I get home from work. I also installed a pressure gauge and left it permanently connected. It is just zip tied to the frame directly below the master cylinder, easy to see when checking adjustment.

 

thanks, ive left one installed through most of this, I had one installed while driving and forgot to reroute it around the exhaust... it burnt through and now i have a permanent fluid stripe down my street and right into my driveway... what a mess that was.
I purchased another and hooked it up.
I havent been able to get a long stretch drive just a mile or so but should have gone into OD, I'm gonna run these pressure tests to get them right, I've looked at so many threads all over the place with what the pressure should be, I will get them logged with Bowtie and post them here as well, if it turns out preasure is all good and still no overdrive I will move on to the next possibility.

 

If you get a chance post your carb part number. See if we can find what it came from....

 

it is the stock original 1980 L48 carb

 

Update with a little embarrassment

I spent some time on the phone yesterday with Chris at Bowtie Overdrives... great group

My geometry is good, my pressures are good... we dialed a touch, told me to take it for a ride and manually shift up... when I go from 3rd to OD if it doesn't go then shift back and forth while feathering the gas in the event something is hung up from sitting for a year. I did this today and could clearly see and feel going into OD.

OK the embarrassing part, I still feel like it's not going fully into OD... why? because im still higher in rpms at 55 mph and it dawned on me, the transmission was in a 450hp 55 chevy big block with 390 gears and 20" wheels... and I never changed the speedo gear. I fealt like I was going allot faster than 55 mph keeping up with freeway movement, never thought about the speedo gear in the 2004r till I was driving into my neighborhood and looked at my speedo going 25mph and knew that wasn't right.

Anyone know what speedo gear im looking for with this 2004r

307 gears and 255,60,15s