68 corvette starter wiring
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,743
Likes: 1,385
The lead between the lumps on the original harness is the "fusible link".
Go buy a fusible link.
Go buy the appropriate marine grade heat shrink one (suggested by ctmccloskey) at a boat store.
Cut the old fusible link out.
Slip a couple of heat shrink sleeves onto the remaining lead.
Slide the heat shrink away so it doesn't get shrunk on while soldering on your new link.
Put a heat sink on the new fusible link (vise grips should do--don't damage the insulation).
Solder on your new fusible link using flux to make things go smoother.
Slide the marine grade heat shrink over each of the soldered ends.
Heat it and shrink it on.
You're done.
Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
Go buy a fusible link.
Go buy the appropriate marine grade heat shrink one (suggested by ctmccloskey) at a boat store.
Cut the old fusible link out.
Slip a couple of heat shrink sleeves onto the remaining lead.
Slide the heat shrink away so it doesn't get shrunk on while soldering on your new link.
Put a heat sink on the new fusible link (vise grips should do--don't damage the insulation).
Solder on your new fusible link using flux to make things go smoother.
Slide the marine grade heat shrink over each of the soldered ends.
Heat it and shrink it on.
You're done.
Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,743
Likes: 1,385
Zivaldo03
Did you get that lead and fusible link repaired ok?
As far as the 6-gauge lead (with a 10-gauge fusible link) that I picked up at the Junkyard (years ago):
I went and did some driving around to test my setup since I left the ammeter in place when i installed the 6-gauge lead that goes from the Horn Relay Bus to the Starter Post on my 68. Ammeter seems to respond quite well (for a non-calculated application
).
With minimal loads and voltage being maintained it indicates POSITIVE. When at idle and I get all the loads to cycle on (a/c, mark viii fan, and all that) at idle I can see the voltage dip (I have EZ-EFI continuous voltage monitoring and digital display) and the ammeter go negative .... as the CS-144 alternator recovers the voltage goes up and the ammeter swings back to neutral.
I'm just documenting it here in case folks decide to try the same experiment.
Did you get that lead and fusible link repaired ok?
As far as the 6-gauge lead (with a 10-gauge fusible link) that I picked up at the Junkyard (years ago):
I went and did some driving around to test my setup since I left the ammeter in place when i installed the 6-gauge lead that goes from the Horn Relay Bus to the Starter Post on my 68. Ammeter seems to respond quite well (for a non-calculated application
). With minimal loads and voltage being maintained it indicates POSITIVE. When at idle and I get all the loads to cycle on (a/c, mark viii fan, and all that) at idle I can see the voltage dip (I have EZ-EFI continuous voltage monitoring and digital display) and the ammeter go negative .... as the CS-144 alternator recovers the voltage goes up and the ammeter swings back to neutral.
I'm just documenting it here in case folks decide to try the same experiment.
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Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 89
Likes: 1
Zivaldo03
Did you get that lead and fusible link repaired ok?
As far as the 6-gauge lead (with a 10-gauge fusible link) that I picked up at the Junkyard (years ago):
I went and did some driving around to test my setup since I left the ammeter in place when i installed the 6-gauge lead that goes from the Horn Relay Bus to the Starter Post on my 68. Ammeter seems to respond quite well (for a non-calculated application).
With minimal loads and voltage being maintained it indicates POSITIVE. When at idle and I get all the loads to cycle on (a/c, mark viii fan, and all that) at idle I can see the voltage dip (I have EZ-EFI continuous voltage monitoring and digital display) and the ammeter go negative .... as the CS-144 alternator recovers the voltage goes up and the ammeter swings back to neutral.
I'm just documenting it here in case folks decide to try the same experiment.
Did you get that lead and fusible link repaired ok?
As far as the 6-gauge lead (with a 10-gauge fusible link) that I picked up at the Junkyard (years ago):
I went and did some driving around to test my setup since I left the ammeter in place when i installed the 6-gauge lead that goes from the Horn Relay Bus to the Starter Post on my 68. Ammeter seems to respond quite well (for a non-calculated application
).With minimal loads and voltage being maintained it indicates POSITIVE. When at idle and I get all the loads to cycle on (a/c, mark viii fan, and all that) at idle I can see the voltage dip (I have EZ-EFI continuous voltage monitoring and digital display) and the ammeter go negative .... as the CS-144 alternator recovers the voltage goes up and the ammeter swings back to neutral.
I'm just documenting it here in case folks decide to try the same experiment.
sorry for my late answer but too much work at office. I repaired the wire just to test my wiring and then I will change the wire and associated fuse. Yesterday, I re-mounted the side pipes to do the first ignition this week. I hope everything will work just to hear the perfect sound of the V8…
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,743
Likes: 1,385
Should be fine. Remember to use the appropriate terms when discussing parts.... it helps with communication and assistance. BUT I am figuring that you replaced the Fusible LInk and did NOT install some aftermarket Fuse?
