My outside door handle is is not sitting flush and I was wondering how hard it is to replace the springs or what I had to do to get it looking and fitting right again.
Thanks

 

I was wondering as well.
Let's see who knows how to get those springs in without breaking them :yesnod:

 

same problem here...

I tried last summer but the spring broke in half. What is the correct method for inserting the spring under the door handle? There must be a trick....?

 

lil ski,

My 1980 had the same problem with a weak spring, in addition, the door would not open. After "picking" the lock, I removed the door "handle". It turned out that the mechanism was worn, and that prevented the linkage from operating properly to open the door.

The "under the handle" door handle spring may only be a bandaid.

 

I've just got new handles ready to put in, but I can't get the old handle out. It won't completely disconnect. :(

 

My project for my vette this winter was the doors. I gutted the left door's hardware last night. I replaced everything except the latch mechanism and the rods. Yep, replaced the Outside Door Handle, Window Regulator, Rollers, and put in a Door Glass Kit, Window Felt. Then I took "non-migrating" grease and greased the latch mechanism and all the window tracks. I got really tired of hearing the whole doors rattle everytime I shut it. It also got irriating when I went to open the door and nothing happens.

I tried all the quick tricks, like door handle spring clip thingy, and also aftermarket outside door handles. Never worked for me.

So I bought the Regulator and Kits from Ecklers. Then I bought a Genuine GM Outside Door Handle from the local Dealer.

I would not go aftermarket on the door handles, it is a waste of money and they are cheaply made. :smash: :smash:

Now the door closes so smoothly and sounds like a new door now. I can also open the door up without getting :mad .

Just my 2 cents worth.

 

Did the cheapo handle thing only two years ago.Guess I'll be doing it again with the GM replacements.

 

how difficult is it to replace the whole handle. I would do it, but I'm not a mechanic and I heard it's supposedly tricky?

 

I did the cheapo spring thing too. No problem getting it in without breaking it but it didn't do a thing still won't pop back up all the way. Wasted money as far as I'm concerned....Ron

 

Guppie, how did you get the spring into the handle??
Did you bend it closed, or install the spring in the open position??

 

It can be done without removal of door glass and channels, but difficult. When I did just replace the outside handle, I opted to remove the door glass and channels, due to my big hands. I also grow impatient when things don't go as good as they should, and I usually break something else in the process. So I have learned to plan ahead.

I'm not sure on a "Best Way" method, I just read the shop manual and did it. If you don't have one, I would suggest getting one. It has been a fantastic investment.

The shop manual is a little vague on replacing the outside door handle. But it is what I used to replace mine.

I did do a search on the internet and also tech tips and found nothing that would be better.

Maybe somebody else can jump in and guide you better.

 

Thanks for all the help so far. My door works fine it opens and closes with no problems it's just the handle doen't sit flush with the door its sags about 3/16s of an inch. But don't we all when we hit 30.......... :lol: I was hoping that a spring would fix it.

 

Are we talking about the flap on the handle that sagging? I was able to replace the spring that make the flap works as good as new with few bucks of parts from hardware store.

Let me know if you need to know how.



[Modified by Ki m Le, 11:39 AM 1/30/2003]

 

Ki m Le,

Let us know how you fixed it and what parts did you have to buy.

 

 

OK, Don't even think about getting the flat V shape spring kit. They're only last for a while!

Remove your problem door handle. Compress and hold the flap down all the way, while inspect and remember how the coil spring installed on the flap pivot shaft or pin.

Remove the pivot pin by drive the pin out with a nail or what ever that has the OD smaller than the shaft. It'll come out very easy.

Look at the coil spring wounding rotation! The left side should have a counter-clockwise coil spring, and the right one should have a Clockwise coil spring. The problem with these springs are rusted and broke off in sections.

Now take the original spring to the local hardware and match up one with the same: ID, OD, Spring's wound rotation and tension as much as possible. The stronger tension is good, but too much tension would ware your handle out quicker. SS spring is a plus.

Install the spring would be reverse order. Push the shaft through the handle main housing, then the flap, then the spring.....all the way through. Use lithium grease on all the moving parts. Adjust the flap's tension by winding or un-winding the spring, before permanent install in the handle.

The key here is "Compress and hold the flap down" so you can align all the components while pushing the shaft in!

Good luck and let us know if it works for you.

 

Kim LE - The problem though will be removing the door handle. I personally don't want to tackle that. But if someone knows how to correcting insert the cheap "V" spring without snapping it, please let us know. My drivers door has been sagging since this past fall.
Thanks!

 

As per the directions: While holding flap in the fully down position,take the ends of the handle spring and compress toward each other enough to start the spring ends into the handle. Push the door handle spring at the top bend downward until it bottoms over the old spring. Supposedly it's fixed...Ron

 

Kim Le - Thanks for your post. I've been pondering fixing door handles just like you said, but haven't gotten to it yet. Glad to hear someone has done it that way successfully. The trick will be finding just the right spring.
I have used the flat spring-fixers in the past, and I break one out of about 3. As noted above, they don't work very long, and I don't think they have quite enough oompf to hold the flap at the stock level. My $.02. Getting the handl out is a real pain, but once you've done it, it becomes easier. Small hands help. One tip: Don't tighten the nuts too tight. It will put too much force on the top flange of the handle body and cause it to eventually bend, which has the effect of narrowing the opening and making the flap rub on the side of the body. I've even seen one cracked because of this.

 

One other caution when removing door handles. If your was painted with the existing door handles on you can almost guarantee that the paint around them will be compromised. :chevy