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i will be building an engine for power from 2500-6500, i have a torker intake now and was wondering if this is the cam i want http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...d=781&pid=6005
or if there is a better one made by comp cams or so. i will be changing my heads soon to, to something high flo
That cam with 108 lobe sep is gonna be QUITE lumpy :yesnod: :cheers: which I really like ... Does the car have a standard or automatic? Also consider this :confused: The Torquer style manifold is a single plane with open plenum, correct? This type of manifold is good for power above 3750 RPM or so, but not below that. :nono:
I seee that the website displays that cam for service with a Torquer II manifold - did they change the design from the original one? It does say 2500 to 6500 RPM so maybe I'm missing something .. :nonod: but I've been around the block once or twice! :thumbs:
ok, the car is a manual transmission, i am also curently changing it to a 5spd with 3.73 in the rear. the car is driven in maine, where my town has one stop light, yes only one, so i want to make power from 25000 up, i want a lopey idle anyway.
also what is the differenc with a hydrollic cam, why wouldnt i want it???
Hydraulic roller cam's typically require some specific parts to be used...You will need a cam button, possibly a new drive gear on the distributor, hardened fuel pump rod and new roller lifters. Also, plan on new springs, retainer's etc. with that lift.
That being said, I bought a Crane Hydraulic Roller for my 383...It's .509/.528, 222 and 230 @ .05". It rocks. My car ran 13.4 @ 104 on F7015 bias ply's through the manifolds and full exhaust the first time I had it out with this combo (2.1x 60 ft). I've got an LT1 intake and carb. However, by the time I was done with all of the valve train, I had spend $1100.
The "roller" part is obviously a misprint (if not, at $126 for the kit I'll take all they have :)). Power with that cam would be a little soft at low rpm and if you're running tall gears expect to be slipping the clutch a lot in traffic. While power from "2500-6500" sounds good, if you can't get to 2500 rpm quicker than the Hyunda next to you it could be embarrassing :). If you don't already have a low restriction exhaust, consider it mandatory for that cam. The TorkerII intake has narrower runners than race single planes and do quite well at lower rpm. I replaced a standard Performer with one and didn't notice any loss of low end torque.
Vetterodder
Good catch. I normally catch mistakes, just glanced at the specs. & closed the window. Had about 20 windows open. Did notice & ignored, just figured it's possible that Edel. had made the cam avail. as a roller.
scorciae
IF your engine is not built, balanced & blueprinted, then do it before that cam.
my engine has not been built balenced and blueprinted, not exactly sure what they are, it has a lot of miles but it did have a compression check and was in excellent shape, cant remember the numbers right now, also it burns no oil, what cam would i want then? is there one that builds between 1500-6000? mostlikely i would be taking all of these gathered parts and using them on a new engine next winter, or the same block, but having it pulled, bored, maybe stroked, then doing everything, pistons, etc...also i dont use the car that much, it is not my daily driver
camshaft choice these days can be simplified by contacting various cam manufactures. Comp has a 1-800 camhelp line that can assist you in the correct selection, also Jim Hill@ crane is a good source. I allways try to use a
grind that has proven results that I'm familiar with. My advice to the "normal"
question of what cam do I use is "what do YOU want the engine do to"? street
with some economy good vac. and drivability, or haul ... and sound rough. a number of questions need to be ask BEFORE selecting any grind #, IE compression ratio, weight , gear ratio, exaughst, intake, and head design.
Hope this helps!
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