Can I remove my Muncie 4spd without removing the engine ?

 

yes

 

Step 1 drink too many beers
step 2 eat pizza/tacos so your hands are greasy
Step 3 place floor jack under transmission
Step 4 undo bolts
Step 5 drink more beers
step 6 let the trans fall off jack
Step 7 drag transmission from under the vette
Step 8 drink more beers
​​

 

Disconnect the shift linkage and remove it completely. It's easier if you remove the shifter altogether. You have to support the engine to protect the distributor. Disconnect the driveshaft and tranny mounts. Disconnect the tranny to bellhousing bolts and slide and rotate the transmission rearward and onto its side shifter side up. You need a jack or hydraulic table to support the tranny while you do this. Tilt it downward and slide it forward while slowly lowering it. If you leave the pilot shaft installed you shouldn't lose too much fluid. It's easier with it removed and reinstall it once its out.....good luck, it's a batch to do it this way but it is possible.

Consider putting in a removable trans crossmember because it will change this from a job that will take you hours and is frustrating and painful to a few minute project

 

Thanks Rescue !!!!

 

Good luck, try not to drop it on your face....

 

Just my contribution.
I suggest puting the engine at TDC and remove the distributor. Less chance to damage it..and it's easy. I say TDC just so it's easier to put it back in later.
I also suggest making the crossmember removable...... and if you're going to do that then make it such that the exhaust passes UNDER and not THROUGH it.

 

you still have to support the engine so it doesnt tilt back and bind on the input shaft into the clutch....

 

Replace the bolts that hold the transmission to the bellhousing with longer bolts with the heads cut off and a slot cut in the end for a screwdriver. It will help a bit with the removal and a lot when you put it back in.

 

I strongly suggest you do what I did some decades ago to remove the Muncie from my '72 as I was switching to auto for the overdrive......overdrive stick shifts were VERY expensive in those daze.....
and living in a suburb means an auto is just easier to drive....I was in my 50's then, and just turned 80 now.....

I cut the cross support about 4" from the side frame rails, and dropped the tranny easy, and to put the cut piece back without all the bolt on trans stuff, I clamped it in place and positioned two long pieces of 2" angle iron one on each side in the rear, clamped it all together, and got a buddy to weld them to the cut out piece, up top and in BACK when repositioned, mark where you will drill a nice bolt hole aboutr 3/8 diameter bolt going fore/aft from back/forward through the 2" welded steel and through the frame stubs a good 3/8 dia. long bolt with good tight fitting nut on it and nice thick washers on the trame stub side and you should be good to go.....
the frame position fits well with a 200 4r auto......

 

So who removes transmission complete with bellhousing off engine block.........or leave bellhousing in place and just remove gearbox?

 

Wth a stock welded in transmission crossmember you can not remove the transmission with the bellhousing connected, so the answer is no one

 

I've had mine out a couple times now. Welded in factory crossmember. Absolutely no way possible to remove gear box with bell housing attached.
Slide gear box back as far as possible tilt engine rear down. No need to pull distributor, just remove the cap. Tilt trans mainshaft down and slide forward and out.
Must be done with arm strength. No possible way to use a jack doing this. Shifter and shifter mounting bracket need to be completely removed first. And little things like reverse switch and speedo cable,
Not certain why everyone seems to think you need a removable crossmember. Comes out easy enough.
Others claim you need to run your exhaust under and not through the crossmember. Again, why? Exhaust disconnects just in front of crossmember anyway.
I've never cut up my frame and the last time I pulled my transmission was to replace a clutch. About 3 years ago. I'm in my mid 60's. No problems installing that clutch all by myself in a tiny one car garage with the car on jackstands.
Would it be easier with a removable crossmember, well yes one could then use a trans jack. But I could lift it. And hold it up and slide it through the clutch and into the pilot bearing and I'm just a little guy. And no longer young.
So I don't get it.

 

76yellow
I also removed and replaced my Muncie with welded in crossmember in place several times.....but it's a ridiculous design anyway - made my crossmember removable to put in the Richmond 6-speed--- much mo betta with a removable crossmember.
Then I made the exhaust pass-under when I put in the 200-4R..... even MUCH mo' betta' with pass under exhaust.... now my exhaust drops straight down if I need to remove it ...so I was able to weld the mufflers, and the intermediate pipes such that I have one solid exhaust all the way back. It's about wonderful Lotsa benefits.

You want to put in the removable crossmember for when you upgrade from that muncie relic to a tranny with overdrive. The removable crossmember makes everything a lot easier and it's smarter anyway. -- not only that but it also gives you the opportunity to upgrade the tranny and the exhaust.

 

Hi

I Installed a auto crossmember in order to install the 6 Speed.
This because it looks original for our governmental technical car inspoctions.
Cut crossmembers or aftermarket crossmembers are obvious and they don't like work on the chassis.

Rgds.