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Does Borgeson box move the steering shaft foreward?
Trying to figure out why my driver side tie rod end is so close to the lower control arm. I assumed the steering shaft and the mounting holes were in the same orientation as the stock box.
Is the steering shaft (where the pitman attaches, a little bit forward of the original?
Trying to figure out why my driver side tie rod end is so close to the lower control arm. I assumed the steering shaft and the mounting holes were in the same orientation as the stock box.
Is the steering shaft (where the pitman attaches, a little bit forward of the original?
I've done three now one non PS conversion and two Factory PS to Boregeson and never any issue with the pitman arm bolting to the borgeson steering box, as long as it's all centered all the way through the process (wheels/steering, steering wheel and box) its always bolted right up with no relocation issues
Which center link, adaptor, and Pitman arm did you use? Post a photo!
Factory center link, the manual valve adapter supplied with the Borgeson kit, and the factory pitman arm.
I've had zero problem with it bolting up, been driving it for months without issue. I just notice that the inner tie rod end is so close to the lower control arm that the zerk fitting could be sheared off. Car is at the frame shop and they tell me the frame is in spec, but compared to a similar car the tie rod is further forward. I would post a picture, but the car is not here.
I wondered this as well and am in the same boat. It’s been on the car for a year with no problems, but had it up on jack stands and I thought the zerk was going to get sheared off. I’m not at car right now, but will post a pic tomorrow. Front end has been recently rebuilt and aligned without drama.
More curiosity than anything else as she drives straight and relatively tight.
I wondered this as well and am in the same boat. It’s been on the car for a year with no problems, but had it up on jack stands and I thought the zerk was going to get sheared off. I’m not at car right now, but will post a pic tomorrow. Front end has been recently rebuilt and aligned without drama.
More curiosity than anything else as she drives straight and relatively tight.
I'd like to see that pic. I'll ask the shop to take one of mine tomorrow.
I'd like to see that pic. I'll ask the shop to take one of mine tomorrow.
It is hard to get the right perspective, but the zerk is about 1/8” from the LCA with the car jacked up, wheels off and the wheels straight. There are some scratches on the LCA as well that I think came from the tie rod bolts when it was aligned last. The position of the bolt is after I rotated it. I don’t think the zerk would actually survive if it was hitting the LCA.
Brad_B, that's exactly what mine looks like. Shop told me it's supposed to have 3* caster, and that adjusting to that will move the control arm forward slightly.
Brad_B, that's exactly what mine looks like. Shop told me it's supposed to have 3* caster, and that adjusting to that will move the control arm forward slightly.
Adding more caster is done by moving the top control arm rearward. The bottom control arm has no adjustment.
Brad_B, that's exactly what mine looks like. Shop told me it's supposed to have 3* caster, and that adjusting to that will move the control arm forward slightly.
I was under there tonight and nothing seems off. I’m not sure why it’s so close but as I said, drives pretty well and it doesn’t actually hit so I suppose no harm no foul.
My car is all stock as per steering. My tie rods are also fairly close to the LCA's. In fact I have to pay attention to the orientation of the clamps. I'm thinking your comment about no harm, no foul is on the money.
If the car drives to your satisfaction. Move on to things that do need your attention.
On jack stands, with the suspension in the fully dropped position, a lot of the clearances seem off. Check that Zerk spacing when the car is off the ground. It may be better.
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