.030 Bored block assembly questions/recommendations
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Hobe Sound
.030 Bored block assembly questions/recommendations
I’m planning on buying a new (1969), bored out block to install in my 1977 corvette. The block is completely bare and stand alone; I was wondering, since the block is bored out to .030 would I have to modify my heads in any way or would I have to get a different head gasket to accommodate to the larger cylinders and pistons? I plan to use my stock L48 heads but if that’ll be an issue I’ll look for different heads. Also, where would be some good places to buy new valve train components and oversized rotating assembly parts? I’d like for the internals to be able to hold up to some boost pressure although I’m not planning on boosting it anytime soon, if at all. I’m not planning at hp chasing but an increase from the stock 180hp would be pretty awesome. Oh yeah I forgot, a camshaft, since I’m trying to build this from the naked block I should probably get a better cam but I don’t want anything with crazy chop that’ll only turn my gas into noise or stall at red lights. My overall plan is a fun, sporty car that is quick on the uptake and won’t kill me as soon as I press the gas. This is my first time doing major engine work so any tips, tricks, or recommendations are greatly appreciated!
Pro
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 505
Likes: 230
Dump the stock heads, get something better. I don’t think it’s worth putting any money on old poor performing heads when for ~$1200 you can get decent aluminum heads. As far as rotating assembly’s, lots of options depending on your HP goals. If boost is your future, get all forged parts. I’d at least go 383 since there isn’t much price difference.
As far as cams, it depends on your compression ratio, heads, gear ratio, exhaust. All your parts need to match for your hp goals. All of that depends on your budget.
For a budget build ideas look up **** cutter performance on YouTube. Lots of higher hp higher dollar builds on this forum. 500 hp isn’t hard anymore.
As far as cams, it depends on your compression ratio, heads, gear ratio, exhaust. All your parts need to match for your hp goals. All of that depends on your budget.
For a budget build ideas look up **** cutter performance on YouTube. Lots of higher hp higher dollar builds on this forum. 500 hp isn’t hard anymore.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Hobe Sound
Dump the stock heads, get something better. I don’t think it’s worth putting any money on old poor performing heads when for ~$1200 you can get decent aluminum heads. As far as rotating assembly’s, lots of options depending on your HP goals. If boost is your future, get all forged parts. I’d at least go 383 since there isn’t much price difference.
As far as cams, it depends on your compression ratio, heads, gear ratio, exhaust. All your parts need to match for your hp goals. All of that depends on your budget.
For a budget build ideas look up **** cutter performance on YouTube. Lots of higher hp higher dollar builds on this forum. 500 hp isn’t hard anymore.
As far as cams, it depends on your compression ratio, heads, gear ratio, exhaust. All your parts need to match for your hp goals. All of that depends on your budget.
For a budget build ideas look up **** cutter performance on YouTube. Lots of higher hp higher dollar builds on this forum. 500 hp isn’t hard anymore.
in this image it lays out all the cam options but when I go to select one, almost all say .050, does that mean it’s oversized and I’d have to bore out the cam journeys and get bigger bearings? I don’t really want to do that so if that’s what that means I’ll probably stay away from them.
NCM Grand Opening Veteran
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,979
Likes: 384
From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
(300 - 400) I'd go cast, but don't ever boost it. Boost costs money that you don't have. No, you can not hog out the heads enough to make a difference. Maybe look for used heads on ebay or Craig's List. Whatever else you do don't waste any money on any Edelbrock carb. Find a good Q-Jet and let Lars help you out.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Hobe Sound
(300 - 400) I'd go cast, but don't ever boost it. Boost costs money that you don't have. No, you can not hog out the heads enough to make a difference. Maybe look for used heads on ebay or Craig's List. Whatever else you do don't waste any money on any Edelbrock carb. Find a good Q-Jet and let Lars help you out.
NCM Grand Opening Veteran
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,979
Likes: 384
From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
Go to ebay and search sbc heads. The Chinese can and do cast some good heads, they'll all be no name brand except for some used heads. Don't get sucked into any used cast iron heads. The valve train on the Chinese heads are what is suspect, you'll need to try and find someone local to give an opinion on that.
Head gaskets -
These are the ones Jebby recommends and what I used on my 396SBC. Gasket fits just fine on a .030 block.
Be aware that if you try to go to a 383 that you'll need to clearance the block, might not have to with H-Beam rods, but you are looking to save money. I'd stick with the 355.
Head gaskets -
Mahle Original Cylinder Head Gaskets 5746
These are the ones Jebby recommends and what I used on my 396SBC. Gasket fits just fine on a .030 block.
Be aware that if you try to go to a 383 that you'll need to clearance the block, might not have to with H-Beam rods, but you are looking to save money. I'd stick with the 355.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 505
Likes: 230
You will have $600 minimum into rebuilding a set of cast iron heads. You can use vortec heads, if you can find a good set cheap. Or save up $1200 for a good set.
a stock cast crank is fine, stock rods are fine with ARP bolts. Keep an eye out for good used parts. It might be cheaper to find a rebuilt vortec long block and add a cam and springs.
a stock cast crank is fine, stock rods are fine with ARP bolts. Keep an eye out for good used parts. It might be cheaper to find a rebuilt vortec long block and add a cam and springs.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 414
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Scat makes balanced forged assemblies(crank rods pistons) comes with bearings and rings too.
definitely recommend at least forged pistons if you’re going to boost it
you can make good power without boost, just cast components with good heads and cam.
definitely recommend at least forged pistons if you’re going to boost it
you can make good power without boost, just cast components with good heads and cam.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 790
Likes: 419
From: Western NY
In regards to your statement about the cams being .050" that is the amount of valve lift where they start and finish measuring the duration of the cam (opening and closing events). its a pretty much universal guideline that most all cam grinders use to make it easier to compare camshafts to one another. it has nothing to do with the cam being "oversized" and machine work needed to make it fit.
Pat
Pat
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
My advice. When I was young and limited resources my friends and I would visit wrecking yards looking for totalled out hot rodded Chevys. Once I even found a 350 Chevy with the original 350 350 hp air cleaner on it on the bottom of stacked up cars. Lots of hot rods get smashed up and totaled
You are better off buying a complete running engine
You are better off buying a complete running engine
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 4,510
From: Virginia
I'm glad @gkull beat me to that advice. The best way to end up with a running engine? Start with a running engine!
Doing a piecemeal build, one part at a time, and paying retail prices, doesn't make sense, and will quickly exceed the cost of a crate engine, even a new one from GM Performance.
Or check Facebook/Craigslist/etc. I picked up a complete, running engine for $700. I'll add that modern trucks are the new hot rods.
Doing a piecemeal build, one part at a time, and paying retail prices, doesn't make sense, and will quickly exceed the cost of a crate engine, even a new one from GM Performance.
Or check Facebook/Craigslist/etc. I picked up a complete, running engine for $700. I'll add that modern trucks are the new hot rods.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 493
From: Salmon Arm, BC
Yes, a complete roller block from the '90's would be the best..... a roller cam is the only way to go today, as a flat tappet cam will eventually fail and you'll end up rebuilding again. Look around in the boneyards for something with reasonable mileage on it and you may get away with a re-ring and have money left over for better heads and intake.
With limited funds the best thing you can do is figure out what you want and build to that goal.....don't just start buying parts because they are a great deal....I've been down that road when I was younger and it just never works out.
Buy yourself a book on performance rebuilding a SBC and do some reading....you'll learn a lot.
With limited funds the best thing you can do is figure out what you want and build to that goal.....don't just start buying parts because they are a great deal....I've been down that road when I was younger and it just never works out.
Buy yourself a book on performance rebuilding a SBC and do some reading....you'll learn a lot.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 848
From: melbourne florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Derek on vice grip garage on you tube comes up with some creative money saving ideas. I can't say all of them are great but it's worth watching an appropriate episode
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,028
Likes: 1,120
From: North tonawanda NY
I picked up a freshly machined 30 over block and built my 355 from mostly used parts found on craiglist and facebook for about a grand. I bought used dart iron eagle heads complete with sharp 1.6 roller rockers for $300... The deals are out there if you look and have patience.
theres decent flowing aluminum heads out there for well under a grand for the pair. I use these same castings on my 355 as these.. I ported them though. they outperformed the dart heads I had previously. https://www.ebay.com/itm/334382770651?itmmeta=01HXX120S5A45ZXM96J Q6ZGZE0&hash=item4ddac429db:g
uwAAOSwvg dW2LNy&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwJ5f%2BGwPZw 0E%2BIkY%2BH%2BNxv2kOVDikPVTOMQi2VojkJSX Jf7GDpYmx1ozzXsW%2FfsYYabfFV1yOXaZrpAPER wK6zjsSuQ%2FyKK6O0F4a1nPqJpI55POgQwLSOFT WXeX2lzBBc0YoVO1dj%2FgQ2cGYGB0shLCx8MNXV L3ege1Ut2rQmgFk%2F9dRwkBEKwEC7d8mxcVdmxQ dXUbrFf%2BKEW3oNQSJqe1L6TLMWf%2FMFlV5x7N Pud%2BTuLLhgFqf924T8NZL77HKQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp %3ABk9SR9KMiKHvYw
afr sells them as the enforcer series also and they perform well for the money.
I am about to pull that engine with under 8,000 miles on it 12 years later to install a 406 I working on now. prior to building that 355 from watching you tube videos and asking questions here I had never built an engine there is a lot you need to pay attention to but building yourself does give you a sense of accomplishment.
I bought my new 406 already rebuilt but turns out im changing a number of things such as the heads, cam and even pistons anyway... even with all that I'm still far ahead of buying a crate engine.
theres decent flowing aluminum heads out there for well under a grand for the pair. I use these same castings on my 355 as these.. I ported them though. they outperformed the dart heads I had previously. https://www.ebay.com/itm/334382770651?itmmeta=01HXX120S5A45ZXM96J Q6ZGZE0&hash=item4ddac429db:g
uwAAOSwvg dW2LNy&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwJ5f%2BGwPZw 0E%2BIkY%2BH%2BNxv2kOVDikPVTOMQi2VojkJSX Jf7GDpYmx1ozzXsW%2FfsYYabfFV1yOXaZrpAPER wK6zjsSuQ%2FyKK6O0F4a1nPqJpI55POgQwLSOFT WXeX2lzBBc0YoVO1dj%2FgQ2cGYGB0shLCx8MNXV L3ege1Ut2rQmgFk%2F9dRwkBEKwEC7d8mxcVdmxQ dXUbrFf%2BKEW3oNQSJqe1L6TLMWf%2FMFlV5x7N Pud%2BTuLLhgFqf924T8NZL77HKQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp %3ABk9SR9KMiKHvYwafr sells them as the enforcer series also and they perform well for the money.
I am about to pull that engine with under 8,000 miles on it 12 years later to install a 406 I working on now. prior to building that 355 from watching you tube videos and asking questions here I had never built an engine there is a lot you need to pay attention to but building yourself does give you a sense of accomplishment.
I bought my new 406 already rebuilt but turns out im changing a number of things such as the heads, cam and even pistons anyway... even with all that I'm still far ahead of buying a crate engine.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,028
Likes: 1,120
From: North tonawanda NY
My girlfriend loves him so we watch his stuff. If its what it takes for her to have some interest in it then im all for it. I have a love hate relationship with how he does some things though. To each his (or her) own but his lazyness bites him in the *** often enough that you would think he would learn at times.