Actual valid ID. Sending messages similar to this in the C7 & C8 forums. I think this one slipped throught the cracks on the C3.

Elmer

 

He buttEd in on another thread trying to sell some repair service pretending to be with GM

 

Welp, this ID is valid unless he it got hacked and the PW was guessed as password or qwerty or something.

I doubt the other ID has this info attached to the other ID
Member Since: Mar 2010
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 690 Likes on 513 Posts


If you can point me at the other ID's post(s), I'll take care of it as I do for every scammer that I see show up on this forum.

Elmer

 

PM me a link, please.

 

or me, I can be almost as mean as Savewave.

Elmer

 

Ill see if I can find it...its been a month or so...

 

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rchid=93782053


notice a pattern?

I first noticed this guy on the Clutch issue post
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rchid=93782068

 

Link doesn't work. I get "Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms."

Both links drop me into the search function with nothing found or highlighted.

Right Click on the post # and copy link address. Then paste it in here. eg, this is post #68. Right click on the 68 and then copy the link address. That will get me to the exact post you want me to see.

If I right-click on #68, and click on copy this link address, I get this:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1607914416

That will open the post #68 of this thread

 

really? sorry

I just went to the advanceed search and put Chevy Cust Svc under username search and then selected posts.... every post reads the exact same

 

Aaaaaahhhh! GM uses a bot to search the forums and it responds to some magic criteria with that same message. If the ID tried to put in a post to actually get a response to a shop or something, then it would be a problem. The text is the same when the bot catches a search term and posts the response to get the poster to ask for help on a GM site. It is legit.

Problem is the search criteria that it is using. It should be beating up in the C7 and C8 forums as there are some of those still under warranty. Obviously a C3 misses the warranty window and the post is just a wild hair that shouldn't have been made.


I did the search you did and confined it to C3 and sub-forums and yes, that same message was in all of the threads, obviously by mistake.


Elmer

 

The only thing I find in looking through the many posts is an offer to help, no offers to make a repair at a charge.

 

Someone at GM created @Chevy Cust Svc, then let an AI find posts with certain key words to comment on. It should have filtered out C3s, but it is certainly a bot.

Back to the OP's question.

This thread explains why you don't use those flat cookie-tray radiator shrouds. They can be made to work with some effort, though. Looking at the eBay image, you'll need a second relay (which you have, a single relay will almost certainly fail), and you'll likely need to upgrade your alternator, and charge wire (6 AWG back to the starter, or to the battery, and cut the original), then pull fused power from the starter or battery for your fan relays.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...is-cursed.html

 

Like I said. Go to "madelectrical"s Web site. Look at there tech pages. How to wire electric fans. Everything you need to know about charging systems. Headlight relays, the lot.

 

Boiling point of water. 212F (sea level, etc)
Boiling point of 50/50 water/antifreeze (ethylene glycol + additives) appx 223F
A cooling system using a 15 psi radiator cap will add 45 degrees to the boiling point for a final boiling point above 250 degrees F.

It is my LIFETIME experience that if a cooling system remains properly pressurized it can have all sorts of other problems (fans, shrouds, ... ) and almost refuses to overheat.

Even with boring old belt driven fans. Idling on a hot day!

It is my experience that if a cooling system is NOT holding pressure (e.g. a single loose, drippy hose clamp, tired gasket on the radiator cap) virtually EVERY other component in the cooling system has to be absolutely perfect
and even then overheating is almost guaranteed.

If pressure is lost, the boiling point is much lower, you make steam in the head, steam displaces coolant, water pump can't pump steam, car runs hot or overheats and/or pukes coolant.

In my 1968 the Thermostat set temperature (185F) is like a BRICK WALL the engine temperature runs into. (Gauge will go slightly above the set point before the t-stat springs opens the first time)

Big block, small block, Low rpms, high rpms, heavy load, cold outside hot outside, it should act like a BRICK WALL. That's how it's designed to work! All you gotta do is seal it up and let it do it's job!

If your cooling system is holding pressure, and you have a 185 thermostat, but the gauge is consistently showing 195, either the thermostat or the gauge is likely mis-calibrated. Take it out, stick it in boiling water with a thermometer if you think it's the t-stat. No, I do NOT recommend putting a 165 t-stat in there. You're just covering up some other problem. Use a laser thermometer to see what's going on.

This is why, per my earlier post, I said that ALL overheating diagnosis MUST begin with pressure testing the system.

If you're making steam in the head, you rapidly end up low on coolant, yet another cause of overheating. (See: Chevrolet Vega. Overflow bottle was too small)

There's this very popular belief (which I'm not gonna even try and refute) that if you have bored or stroked your motor, if it's a big block, if it's modded to make 500 horsepower it's gonna run hot regardless.

I don't think so. It's only making 500 hp when you've got it floored. At most you might need an oversize radiator. A more efficient motor should actually make LESS waste heat.

I've fixed overheating on a shitload of cars. Not just Corvettes. Thrown away all sorts of aftermarket electric fans. Returned 95% of them to stock configuration.

On 95% of them the ROOT of the overheating problem was failure to hold pressure.

On C3's I'll agree proper radiator shrouds & blanking foam ARE more important than on most other cars.

Fix whatever is causing it to lose pressure (hose clamp, leaky heater core, drippy radiator, head gasket, ..and you can take your sweet time fixing the rest. (Shrouds, fans, fan sensors, ...

Lastly, as I said in the treatise I posted earlier (on Reddit). Don't lie to yourself! If that pressure tester needle drops AT ALL, you've got a leak.