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I’m with Lars on this. Can we get a couple more pics of the engine without the air cleaner so we can see what all you have going on. I’m partial to Lokar cables and brackets but need to see what all is going on there first.
It took me a minute, but here are some more pictures with the air
cleaner removed.
Thanks for the pictures.
that cable is just too short Mate.
Start over.
Get a proper throttle cable. And make or purchase a proper bracket. You should have a bit of a "S" bend in that cable so it comes into the bracket straight and has the ability to flex when the engine moves on it's mounts.
Personally here is what I would do. You don't have an OE carb, and you don't have an OE intake. So any adaptation of OE cables and brackets is gonna have limited success. My brother and I had a similar problem with the 4150 holley on his 68. What we ended up doing was going with a Lokar bracket and cable. You can get blacked out cables that look OEish. I would get both a throttle and kickdown cable kit from Lokar and the throttle cable brackets. You want something that drops pretty low and the lokar stuff does. I'd go with a XTCB-40DQ
throttle bracket and use the kickdown mounting plate thats part of the kickdown cable. A 24" throttle cable should be more than adequate. The kickdown cable I'd look at would be a KD-2350HT and the throttle cable would be a TC-1000HT.
The OE hole in the firewall of the car won't need to be modified. You'll just have to get a pair of fender washers and drill them out to the size of firewall fitting and basically sandwich everything between those. On his 68 the OE hole was ALOT bigger than the lokar holes so fender washers were needed to take up the slack. You can reuse the OE pedal components and such. Just slide the new cable through the old inserts. A
The angle of that cable to the bracket boggles the mind, how anyone could think that is ok. I'm surprised it works at all!
Do not drive the car like that. The chances of that cable sticking and holding the throttle open are pretty good.
I replaced the throttle cable and here’s what it looks like. My gas pedal is really stiff and sound like metal rubbing on metal. What could be the problem? What can I do to fix it?
I went out to the garage and took a quick photo of mine, may help. Of course I don't have a automatic transmission cable on mine. But the spring arrangement would still be the same.
After you get that cable issue sorted out, I have another job for you.
Because of the firing order of SBC, # 5 cyl and # 7 cyl fire real close to each other.
Those two plugwires should be well separated after leaving the cap. Using your wire looms, keep those two wires as far apart as possible.
I noted in your photos, 5 & 7 are not only close but cross over each other maybe three times.
Eventually that will cause a misfire that is hard to diagnois. But this is an easy fix.
This event is called Inductive Crossfire. And in some rare cases can cause internal damage.
After you get that cable issue sorted out, I have another job for you.
Because of the firing order of SBC, # 5 cyl and # 7 cyl fire real close to each other.
Those two plugwires should be well separated after leaving the cap. Using your wire looms, keep those two wires as far apart as possible.
I noted in your photos, 5 & 7 are not only close but cross over each other maybe three times.
Eventually that will cause a misfire that is hard to diagnois. But this is an easy fix.
This event is called Inductive Crossfire. And in some rare cases can cause internal damage.
Thank you so much! I never would have guessed that! I don’t know much about cars. I’m a huge corvette fan, but I probably shouldn’t have picked them to learn on, lol!
I replaced the throttle cable and here’s what it looks like. My gas pedal is really stiff and sound like metal rubbing on metal. What could be the problem? What can I do to fix it?
Your new throttle cable has an issue. The black cylindrical part with the “bell” on the end is supposed to be crimped/attached to the eyelet on the carb, and it should move with the eyelet and carb lever. Yours has become detached. You can see raw cable in front of it. Note in the other post how the raw cable is behind this part. The extra resistance you feel is probably that part dragging on the cable instead of moving with it.
Correct throttle cable bracket- was it originally plated?
Originally Posted by lars
You have a pile of custom, aftermarket parts that don't work and don't fit together. Either put the correct stock parts on the car, or use good quality custom parts and make them work right with good modifications and well-done workmanship. Your throttle cable is a cheap aftermarket braided cable that doesn't belong on the car, and the throttle cable bracket is some aftermarket adapter bracket that is poorly done and badly installed. The stock, correct bracket looks like this. It bolts firmly to the carb attach bolts, and it fits the stock cable correctly:
The stock cable looks like this:
You have an aftermarket intake manifold, and probably have an aftermarket square-bore carb that won't permit use of the good, stock cable bracket. When you modify your car and eliminate the well-working stock components, you have to be prepared to do well-done mods to make things work - you have a pile of badly done mods there that needs to be completely re-done.
Either install the correct, stock parts, or put some work into your custom modifications to make them right. There are good quality (not cheap) aftermarket parts available that work well if you don't want to go stock. They are not the parts you have...
I have the original throttle cable bracket on my 78 Pace Car. It looks like it was painted grey from the factory. Does any one know if that is correct or if it was plated?
Johns78
Take a look at the photo in the below link.
Note how the black "sleeve" on the throttle cable is located/assembled differently from yours.
I believe this is what wwiiavfan was talking about ......
Your new throttle cable has an issue. The black cylindrical part with the “bell” on the end is supposed to be crimped/attached to the eyelet on the carb, and it should move with the eyelet and carb lever. Yours has become detached. You can see raw cable in front of it. Note in the other post how the raw cable is behind this part. The extra resistance you feel is probably that part dragging on the cable instead of moving with it.
