The Factory LS cars run the regulator at the rear of the car. Making the return line shorter, simpler.
As per measurement of pressure. Can't see how that could possibly make a difference. Cool the fuel? Perhaps, I live in a fairly warm climate as you know. Never a issue.
Factory steel line. 50 years old designed for low pressure. Line is under suction with stock setup. You want to put 60 PSI through it now?
Or with regulator up front 100 PSI through it!
Your call. Many recommend against that.
Rubber fuel line? NOOO!
Proper EFI Line. Yes.
​​​​Lots of different ways to do this.
I really like to look at how the OEM's do it.
Safe and reliable should be top concerns.
​.

 

One video I watched the guy had the regulator in the rear set for x psi and found psi at the engine bay was lower im not totally opposed but we've already got the steel return line and I already have a holley regulator setup in the engine bay. I will be watching more installed and doing more reading. Thanks for the insight its interesting to see how many different approaches people take. I see some even using the stock mechanical pumps with a surgetank and booster pump from it. Doesnt seem ideal to me.

I assumed the FI line was some form of soft reinforced line with the same damage vulnerability as rubber line although I am aware special high pressure line is needed and it would be best to get something able to hold up to ethanol. Thats actually one of the things I want to check off as now I look for ethanol free fuel since ive had it gel up my carb a few times now.

 

Where you place the regulator (front or rear), each has what I would consider small downsides. Rear mounting keeps your return line short and your system simpler up front. The downside is pressure drop from the regulator to your fuel rails (although it is not large depending on the diameter of your fuel line). You want to set the regulator based upon the pressure felt at the fuel rails to compensate for the drop, but we generally only do that at idle. However, over time, the Sniper (or similar learning EFI unit) will compensate for the loaded fuel pressure drop and learn to add extra fuel as you load the engine. Is that ideal, no, but it will work. A front mounted regulator has less pressure drop to get fuel to the fuel rails, but adds complication with a longer return line. Additionally, if the user intends to add boost or turbo pressure reference to the regulator, that is problematic for a rear mounted fuel regulator yet relatively easy for a front mounted regulator. OEM designs are a compromise between engineering and cost. Rear mounted regulators cut down on the amount of fuel line per unit, therefore reduce costs. Is that the sole reason they do it that way? Probably not, but mounting the regulator as close to the fuel rail would be the best for fuel delivery.

 

do you think something like this fuel tank with a 255lph 60psi pump would work ok utilizing the factory steel lines with a regulator mounted in the engine compartment? Or is there some reason I should not utilize the factory lines? This car is for street use only and the 406 is mainly built for torque and sub 6k rpms only. Some of the issues im hoping this will remedy with tuning it the constant fiddling I seem to have to do with the carb to keep the car idling properly without stalling at lights as now it seems to be very touchy until fully warmed up. I realize there will be different characteristics to deal with once the new engine and trans with the higher stall converter are in the car and the converter I have now might be some of my issues but... I like to tinker with the car but I also want reliability and im tired of pulling the air cleaner and turning screws which honestly seems to be constant.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/28438149853....c100667.m2042

 

Haha, those are some loaded questions. Do I think steel lines are stronger than EFI rated rubber / synthetic lines - absolutely! Even thin wall SS lines can handle 100s of pounds of pressure. However, 50 year old stock lines??? I don't know. What's your risk vs reward threshold? If it were my car and I didn't want to replace the lines, I'd figure out a way to manually run the pump for some time until I felt comfortable with the setup. Basically do a hydrostatic test of sorts in a test environment of your garage. Another option would be to drop the fuel pressure to 43 psig and run slightly larger injectors like the 120s (lbs/hr) in the Sniper. I run 43 psi on my 385 with 150s and it runs just fine (supercharged). I know that seems like a stretch, but the Sniper is capable of running a 3 bar fuel system just fine. That would drop your normal 60 psi almost 20 psi if you were worried about the 60 psi.

These are a lot of variables. The devil is always in the details... Any EFI unit on your car will have to be fiddled with until you dial it in. Then no more fiddling. (Although if you get that far - you'll always fiddle - but it's easy to do with software). You will have to learn how to use the software, read data logs, and understand cause and effect of the respective EFI unit. That process can take time, and most die hard carburetor users don't get past that point. If you are going to get frustrated by the "bolt on and go" myth, you won't like the transition. I've seen it many times. The EFI unit can be reliable, but sometimes there is a period of unreliability. We have a tendency to flood out the O2 sensors at first as we tune, IACs go bad, TPS sensors do too. So, sometimes the grass isn't greener on the other side...

I'm not trying to discourage you, but allow you to go into this with your eyes wide open. I personally would not return to a carburetor. I've had a lot of growing pains to get there, but once the system is no longer scary and you have more understanding, it becomes very powerful.

Cheers!
KT

 

I do know about the o2 sensors getting flooded out, I have an AFR on my car now and I destroyed the first sensor in like 2 weeks trying to get my carb dialed in. second sensors been fine for like 3 years though. I may look into doing a surge tank type setup afterall or maybe ill just get this with the fuel line and pump for the tank.
https://acesefi.com/products/killsho...ck-master-kits

I know the Holley setup is more mainstream with better support, but ive been watching a lot of you tube videos and reading a lot of forum comments on this system and for what you get for $1500 this is a pretty good buy. and it checks all the boxes including the timing/distributor as well as the fuel system. I do like the separate ECM as well. Still have more homework to do though. Right now im trying to get my new suspension dialed in before I take it for an alignment. I just got the car back on the road today to get this stuff sorted out before tearing in for the engine and trans swap. I dont want to do too many changes at once without driving and testing. for one I like to know what actually made what kind of difference.
I'm really liking the borgeson steering! still have spongy brake pedal feel though even after replacing all the soft lines and gravity bleeding about a liter of fluid. at this point it has to be air in the master or the booster.

EDIT if I can fit this surge tank somewhere under the hood it would work without me having to replace my whole fuel system and stock lines..

 

Keep reading Augie. Everyone who runs the remote tank has trouble. The absolute worst way to do it.
Not certain why your so determined to run factory lines. The factory feed line could be used for a return line. The factory return is just to small.
In tank pump is THE way to go. Running new lines that are clean inside as apposed to 50 year old lines?
OK, pressure drop. From rear of car to fuel rail. I couldn't measure a difference. Has to be less than 1/4 PSI.
At 60 PSI. Your actually thinking this is a issue?
Lots and lots of ways to do this.
But a remote tank in the engine compartment is NOT a good idea. Best of luck to you.
Keep in mind getting everything installed is the super easy part. Including running new fuel lines.
Getting everything dialed in is what takes time. Start up fuel, warm up fuel. Tip out, tip in. Accel pump sensitivity. Etc, etc.
Once every little thing is dialed in. It's so worth it.
Every system tunes differently . Keep in mind you may need help getting the tune perfect. Don't choose a system on price only to find no one in your area has experience tuning the system.
AND DON'T BELIEVE IT SELF TUNES! They only tune/ adjusted the base fuel map.