Broken part solved my cooling issue





Those high RPMs are your issue and you should consider a 5 speed swap if you are going to speend that kind of time on the road. I have a 5 speed with 4.11 rear gears and I am just under 3000 rpm at 80 or 85 mph...forget exactly....its a great investment





If the spring isn't rigid along the length of the hose (easy to check, cold, with your hand), it needs to be replaced, and is 100% your problem.
And please confirm your temps with an IR temp gun. You may be surprised.
If the spring isn't rigid along the length of the hose (easy to check, cold, with your hand), it needs to be replaced, and is 100% your problem.
And please confirm your temps with an IR temp gun. You may be surprised.
Mine runs cooler around town in the winter of course. But on the hwy at 85 mph she runs 200 yr round even on a 40 or 50 degree day. The only time it deviates is this time of yr and even then only above 90. If it's 88 out she'll lay right on 200 or a tad higher which is perfect as these motors are made to run best between 200 and 210. I notice on my 2011 Camaro SS that this time of yr she runs 206 to 208 and the fans kick up often so I agree that 200 to 210 is no worry and actually where you want it. I chuckle when people post worried about 200.
I would argue air flow but if that were true wouldn't the car always be a little warm at 85mph regardless of air temp? One thing I do know is that a stiffer fan action on hot days makes her run perfectly cool on the hottest day ever. I of course don't want or need a stiff fan 24/7 but I'm convinced that stiffer action maintains a proper temp under heavy heat load. Now whether that's the most efficient way or the intended design or not I have no idea. But I posted earlier that if there is a clutch that operates quiet and efficient and kicks in stronger under abusive conditions and keeps the temp steady in the sweet spot then I'll take it
Last edited by Mike in Mobile; Aug 7, 2024 at 02:57 AM.





I installed a Champion aluminium radiator. It helped a little, I went over every gap around and over the radiator. Plugged off every path air could possibly find around the radiator. It helped a little. I tried a high flow thermostat. It helped a tad. I tried various timing settings, mostly finding the vacuum advance timing had the most effect on high speed hot outside running temps.
But. Still, when outside temps were below approximately 94 degrees, no issues whatsoever. But when temps got higher. There I was chewing my finger nails off watching the temp gauge!
In went a 4 row aluminium rad meant for a big block car. C5 electric fans with there built in shroud.
The fans NEVER run on the highway now, never.
105 degrees F outside, Fans only kick on at a long light or crawling slowly in extreme traffic.
Big! Kickass rad, proper shroud that flows when your moving!
No more issues. And I did fight this for several years.
Bottom line. NO, THE STOCK RADIATOR IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH!!
Last edited by 4-vettes; Aug 7, 2024 at 03:10 AM.
I appreciate all feedback as I will be driving this machine 'till I die so I'm always open to learn or share info that'll keep 'em rolling down the road.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I installed a Champion aluminium radiator. It helped a little, I went over every gap around and over the radiator. Plugged off every path air could possibly find around the radiator. It helped a little. I tried a high flow thermostat. It helped a tad. I tried various timing settings, mostly finding the vacuum advance timing had the most effect on high speed hot outside running temps.
But. Still, when outside temps were below approximately 94 degrees, no issues whatsoever. But when temps got higher. There I was chewing my finger nails off watching the temp gauge!
In went a 4 row aluminium rad meant for a big block car. C5 electric fans with there built in shroud.
The fans NEVER run on the highway now, never.
105 degrees F outside, Fans only kick on at a long light or crawling slowly in extreme traffic.
Big! Kickass rad, proper shroud that flows when your moving!
No more issues. And I did fight this for several years.
Bottom line. NO, THE STOCK RADIATOR IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH!!
Air flow at speed and engine compartment temperature is always a concern with these cars.
Chevrolet noticed they had temperature problems on their ac equipped cars and they added a bolt on factory lower air dam extension to all the big block ac cars.
Adding one will pick up and force more air up into the radiator.
On my 73 bb, I removed the front license plate and mounting bracket, replaced it with an oem center grille which basically allowed for 33% more air flow through the front grills.
Swapping out the oem style radiator and going with a better aluminum aftermarket radiator with make a huge difference in keeping the engine temperature cooler during high demands.
DeWitts and Champion seem to be the most popular and show the best results.
Running an Edelbrock performance hi flow water pump is a plus and adding a hi flow thermostat will allow more coolant to flow through the system.
If you are or plan to run headers, make sure they are ceramic coated.
Add some type of venting which allows the extremely hot air to pass through and escape from the engine compartment.
Adding vents in the hood allows the heat to escape and the proper vents and their placement will allow more outside air to be pulled into the engine bay and through the radiator.
These cars allow little air through the radiator and when you start running them at higher rpm, the engine temps will run hotter than normal.
On my 73, my rpm’s were 3100 at 65 mph with 3.36 rear end gearing.
If I kept it at 60 mph my engine temps would run around 200, anything faster and the engine temp would increase to about 220.
On the California highways, I was getting run over.
As suggested above, if you want to run at 80+ mph then swap to a five or six speed transmission and keep the rpm’s at a minimum.
Cooling a big block in these cars is only done by taking every step possible to make it happen.
The problem is the design of the body allows very little air through the radiator so you need to do everything possible to get more air to pass through, you’ll need to improve the cooling system to keep engine temps down and allow as much of the hot air to escape the engine compartment.
One other thing to keep in mind, when your car was built, the maximum speed on highways was 55 mph, so that is the speed your car was designed to run the most efficient.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Aug 7, 2024 at 01:14 PM.
Air flow at speed and engine compartment temperature is always a concern with these cars.
Chevrolet noticed they had temperature problems on their ac equipped cars and they added a bolt on factory lower air dam extension to all the big block ac cars.
Adding one will pick up and force more air up into the radiator.
I will definitely go w/the Dewitts when I land the BB. If I had the money I would've already done it but mine runs perfectly cool at 80 or 90mph yr round and only creeps up on 90+ degree days and even then doesn't overheat so I drive the hell outta her even on 100 degree days like I did today driving the 50 mile hwy round trip to work and back. So air flow is not a big prob w/the stock 350. I would love a bigger air dam that is plug and play. If I could find an in stock pace car one that supposedly will bolt right up on a 77 I'd buy it in a heartbeat. Again though I don't need it now but I wiil later. Actually after all the studying I did about these cars before purchasing this one, coupled w/my personal experience w/the 75 Stingray I owned 25 yrs ago, I'm very happy w/the engine temps in this one as well as the lack of interior heat. The 75 woukd bake you like a clam on a 40 degree day w/t-tops off. This one has no noticable cabin heat even after driving 250 miles at 80 plus. If I were gonna keep this engine I'd be happy as is. Again the only reson I started this thread was to say oh by the way a stiffer fan action will scrub that excess heat perfectly and she'll sit on 200 all day at hwy speen in the baking heat. When I drove to work at 100 degrees she ran barely a needle width above 200 and on the way home this evening still 90 degrees (at 10pm) she stayed a needle width below 200 and I was burning across the 7 mile long bay bridge keeping pace w/the 85 to 90mph traffic. I wouldn't mind the center grill piece either although I'm strangely ok w/the front plate





77 - 79 front spoiler extension part of Heavy duty cooling option in those years. It's made out of conveyor belt kinda reinforced rubber. These really do help scoop some air through the radiator. Although getting hard to find nowadays. If you google it I have found a couple out there.
A couple pictures of my car in the garage just now. Hard to get a good picture under there. But here ya go.
I don't think the original retainers are available at all anymore. I've added extra rivets to mine over the years anyway due to abuse. Might not be super pretty but doesn't break on every driveway and speed bump. And it does really help.





And it doesn't break left, right and center!
And it fits right on your car!
(OK you will need to drill holes, come up with rivets and reinforcement plates).





As you can see, a factory option. It bolts right onto your 77.










