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My corvette isn't starting but lights work, no clicking. Smoke came from auto trans. console last time tried to start, then nothing. Has new battery and replaced neutral safety switch thinking it was the cause of the smoke.
Still not starting. Does any one know what this silver cylinder thing is connected by wire plug as this got very hot when the ign. switch was on, no smoke though? Has no ID, only says made In USA on top.
Thanks
You'll have to trace the wires to get an idea of what that is. Buzzers usually aren't metal but I suppose there's a first time for everything. Does it just lay loose in there?
You'll have to trace the wires to get an idea of what that is. Buzzers usually aren't metal but I suppose there's a first time for everything. Does it just lay loose in there?
Yes, but 2 of the wires that plug into it go to the green buzzer, the other 2 run under the dash.
Got it. Narrowed down to starter issue. See photos. Starter motor has only 2 terminals. Looking for a direct replacement shows starter motors with 3 terminals. Can it be connected the same as before and disregard the 3rd terminal or does one of the yellow wires need to be connected to the 3rd terminal? Starter from car Yellow wires went to large terminal. Green to small one.
I believe the third terminal is for pre HEI systems known as the Points & Condenser system IGN.
The ignition change was made somewhere around '75 or '76?
In other words that solenoid is made universal, fitting several yrs worth of starters.
Connected to new starter same as old starter, but no click or crank, 2 wires to the center terminal and one to the right side terminal.
Tried shorting out by turning key to on and placing a screw driver between the 2 terminals and solenoid. It engaged to flywheel but not full contacted so made a loud scraping noise. Removed both screwdriver and turned key top off. Still kept making noise. Removed battery cable and shut off. Not sure what is going on as know there is power going to the starter but why wouldn't it disengage when key was turned off? Also why didn't it fully engage? There were no shims on the old starter so added none. The flywheel has some chipped teeth where the engagement happened. Attached is the new starter which I bench tested and works properly. Any ideas? Thanks
Good idea to check for 12 volts at the starter when turning the ignition key switch. The fusible link wire at the starter could be toast. A wiring schematic will tell you real quick what Should be connected to the silver device. I wouldn’t do anything until the reason for the silver Relay becoming hot is discovered, you don’t want to buy a new wiring harness, big money.
Good idea to check for 12 volts at the starter when turning the ignition key switch. The fusible link wire at the starter could be toast. A wiring schematic will tell you real quick what Should be connected to the silver device. I wouldn’t do anything until the reason for the silver Relay becoming hot is discovered, you don’t want to buy a new wiring harness, big money.
Thanks, I will check as there is 2 wires coming into one thru a fusible link. Also wonder if I should separate that double wire and attach it to the 3rd starter terminal that is on the left. As show in the photo, the large wire comes from the battery. Don't know about the double wire. The small wire does go to the terminal on the right. Will get a wiring diagram.
Nope, going out of town for a week so will tackle it then.
I still don't know why it continued to start only after I shorted out the starter and released it and turned the key off. Had to disconnect the battery to stop it.
I am going to try to wire the starter out of the car using the car's starter wires and see if it the solenoid works. I know the new starter is good as connected it to a battery outside the car and shorted it out. I have not been able to find a wiring diagram for the silver module shown above. That gets hot when ign. switch is on.
That is what my new starter looks like, but does the extra wire shown above on the old starter go onto the 'R' terminal on the new starter as it went on the Main large battery cable terminal along with the battery cable?
The R terminal is for earlier cars. Your 75 came factory with a HEI Distributor and did not have a R terminal.
Thus you have NO wires that connect to the R terminal as you should not have a R terminal.
The starter you purchased with a R terminal will work on your car. Just try to pretend that the R terminal isn't even there. Connect your wires exactly as they were before.
Connected as were before but still no click. I do have 12 volts going to the starter from the large battery terminal to the 'S' start terminal without the ign. key inserted. Shouldn't I only get 12 volts when the ign. key is fully turned?
If I cross out the large to the 'S' terminals, the starter engages. I am bench testing it connecting it to the existing starter wires. I the first photo, I show a silver pcs. that gets hot when I turn the ign. switch on. This part is next to the neutral safety switch which is working. Could this silver part be the culprit? I haven't been able to find it on a wiring diagram.
Just tried it again and noticed smoke, (elect. smell) coming from the new neutral safety switch when you try to crank it. No crank, but reading 9 - 10 volts at starter terminals. Why would a new NSS smoke like the old one? All connections are the same as before. Might have to trace it back to the ign. switch. Will need top get a wiring diagram.
Last edited by jdenn47; Sep 15, 2024 at 11:43 AM.
Reason: Update
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75 corvette not starting
