Calling all Fiberglass Experts
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Joined: Sep 2022
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From: Ontario Canada
Calling all Fiberglass Experts
What would be the best way to fix the bottom of my door that has become delaminated in about a 12" section. One person told me to use one layer of fiberglass between the metal frame and the outer shell. Are there any other ideas that would be better. This is on a 69 Coupe if that makes any difference. Thanks in advance.
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Joined: Nov 2023
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A layer of fiberglass wouldn't give you a good repair. You need 3M panel bonding adhesive part # 08115 which is made for bonding frp, smc, and steel. The kit, including the adhesive, applicator gun, and mixing tips is available at
Once the area is clean, you apply the mixed adhesive to the seam and clamp it for a few hours. You would use a piece of wood or something similarly stiff on both sides for clamping. The adhesive has some sort of solids within the mix that prevents the clamping from squeezing the adhesive out too thin in the joint. The main thing is to make sure the joint is as clean as possible prior to gluing it back together. Coarse sticky back sandpaper stuck to a piece of metal an inch or so wide would likely work well for both cleaning and leaving a rough texture for the epoxy to bond to. This is the same type of material used by car makers today for non-structural bonding of body panels that were once spot welded in place, so it is made for what you need to use it for.
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,147
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From: US-PNW
100% agree on the 3M 08115 epoxy. There's a guy on eBay that sells the kit with extra extra nozzles, for $128 including shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/276497732795 That's where I got mine, not overnight delivery, but within a week or so.
Earlier this summer, I repaired a T-top skin that was delaminating from the under-structure about 1 foot to each side of the corner. The 3M worked great and the gun/nozzle design was easy to inject the epoxy where I needed it to go. Do try to scuff both surfaces with 60/80 grit sand paper and make sure to blow out dust and dirt. Three or 4 spring clamps to ensure good contact and bonding will finish the job with no fuss. I don't recall if it's acetone or denatured alcohol that cleans up squeeze-out and any drips, but make sure to have something on hand.
The epoxy tube can be resealed and stored for a year or two after opening.
Earlier this summer, I repaired a T-top skin that was delaminating from the under-structure about 1 foot to each side of the corner. The 3M worked great and the gun/nozzle design was easy to inject the epoxy where I needed it to go. Do try to scuff both surfaces with 60/80 grit sand paper and make sure to blow out dust and dirt. Three or 4 spring clamps to ensure good contact and bonding will finish the job with no fuss. I don't recall if it's acetone or denatured alcohol that cleans up squeeze-out and any drips, but make sure to have something on hand.
The epoxy tube can be resealed and stored for a year or two after opening.
Last edited by barkingrats; Aug 24, 2024 at 11:25 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 738
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From: Dayton NV
Like the other said use 3m, rough up the area and clean, clean, clean it. Then clean it one more time to get any dirt out of there. Compressed air, vacuum whatever you have. Hopefully no road oils have gotten in there. I would not use any solvents. If oils got in there hot water with Dawn to clean and rinse several times. When clamping I used yard sticks on both sides to help evenly spread out the pressure otherwise you might find low spots where the clamps were at.
Eric
Eric
