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Take a nice and easy 15-20 mile drive, keeping the speed under 60 Mph. Find a parking lot and do several slow figure 8s. Let the differential cool. Repeat 2-3 more times.
No hard launches, no prolonged running at constant speed for 500 miles.
Drain the fluid, refill with Lucas 85W-140 gear oil with 2 bottles of Delco 10-4003 additive.
Take a nice and easy 15-20 mile drive, keeping the speed under 60 Mph. Find a parking lot and do several slow figure 8s. Let the differential cool. Repeat 2-3 more times.
No hard launches, no prolonged running at constant speed for 500 miles.
Drain the fluid, refill with Lucas 85W-140 gear oil with 2 bottles of Delco 10-4003 additive.
Thanks. What do you recommend to put in for the initial break-in?
I have always been of the mentality if its going to break it will break right away... while it is still under warranty. Besides there is nothing like a nice long burn out!
These cars were new they were driven and "broken in " like this with another fluid change in the first 500miles? I just pulled my original rear end at 110k to swap in a 3.55 rear end and assumed if it was properly assembled with proper lash and clearances that it would be fine... I mean my old one still is? I did use the Lucas gear oil and gm limited slip additive.
Not break in, but I would add a drain hole and a magnetized plug.
When new, then and now, I don't think anyone ever routinely changed the diff fluid. But, it couldn't hurt.
Is there a reliable way to determine if it's going to be noisy before installing it?
Short answer - no.
The potential for a noisy differential is a function of the quality of the parts used and the knowledge of the rebuilder of how to properly rebuild the unit.
Not break in, but I would add a drain hole and a magnetized plug.
When new, then and now, I don't think anyone ever routinely changed the diff fluid. But, it couldn't hurt.
I wonder why all manufacturers didn't consistently put a drain plug in - seems like something obvious to facilitate keeping fresh fluid in them.