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I have a low mile original 73 coupe that I've slowly been refreshing over the last three years after purchasing from the original owner. It has developed a leaning rear wheel lately on the drivers side only. When I make a quick RH turn putting that side under load, I hear a brief metal scraping sound as well. I've looked around the rear suspension and cannot see anything obvious out of sorts. I'm not sure what is causing this, particularly on only one side. Has anyone else experienced this on their C3?
Thank you
I have a low mile original 73 coupe that I've slowly been refreshing over the last three years after purchasing from the original owner. It has developed a leaning rear wheel lately on the drivers side only. When I make a quick RH turn putting that side under load, I hear a brief metal scraping sound as well. I've looked around the rear suspension and cannot see anything obvious out of sorts. I'm not sure what is causing this, particularly on only one side. Has anyone else experienced this on their C3?
Thank you
Sounds like strut rod bushing failure led to bearing failure on that side but hard to know without tearing into it.
With the rear wheels off the ground, grab the tire at 12 and 6 and try to move it while either you or another watches the side yoke on the differential case.
.008" yoke movement at the diff is GTR's blue-print #.
GM was more like .010-.020"
They can be as high as .250-.375" and may even "pop-out"
Do I have to tell you that is bad, real bad.
The yokes just have a tendency to wear off the end, in the diff.
no, you need to confirm if the issue is in diff first. Then you need to understand how a diff should be built because if you blindly believe the work is the same from place to place then you go down a long road.
RFine73
Take a picture from underneath and looking forward. Could be as simple as a strut rod gotten out of adjustment. Show us some pictures of the driver side strut rod.
Originally Posted by RFine73
I have a low mile original 73 coupe that I've slowly been refreshing over the last three years after purchasing from the original owner. It has developed a leaning rear wheel lately on the drivers side only. When I make a quick RH turn putting that side under load, I hear a brief metal scraping sound as well. I've looked around the rear suspension and cannot see anything obvious out of sorts. I'm not sure what is causing this, particularly on only one side. Has anyone else experienced this on their C3?
Thank you
If the bushings in the lower strut rod decided to crumble away, or the adjuster slipped, that could do the same lean.
Please take close-up pics of both ends of the strut rod, so we can see the rubber bushing in there, and the inside adjuster.
Rear drivers wheel jacked up off the ground
Here's a closer look at the driver's side rear suspension. I tried to move the rear wheel while jacked up and could not get the wheel to move at all. I tried to take a picture of the yoke but was too dark. I did not see any evidence of "machining" into the case. Thanks for all your ideas.
yes, don't have link.
google c3 vette rear strut adjustment?
basically loosen nut, use bolt head to turn bolt which turns washer/"cam"
180 deg to verify the tire top will go outward.
doing it with wheel off ground makes it easier.
then when on ground do final adjust to
"0" or ".5" camber.
good luck
RFine73
I replaced my strut rods within the last month or so. You can see some pics here. I got adjustable ones but just put them back where they were since I just wanted to get the lousy bushings replaced.
You can take a peek here and see both the original adjustment bolts and the new strut rods.
Note that the original type adjustment is a "cam' type shim/washer/bolt and bolt hole. You'll see when you get under there.
Get the wheel up in the air and adjust to tuck in lower side of the wheel inboard. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...trut-rods.html
Rfine;
It looks as if you have new lower strut rods and adjusters.
If they were replaced recently, and set to where the crumbling bushings once were, that could easily be your problem.
You just need an alignment.
If you already had an alignment, then perhaps the adjuster has slipped.
That bolt needs to be really tight.
And I suggest marking the eccentric with a sharpie or white paint stripe so you can easily check it for a while to ensure it has not slipped.
But you also still need to show us a pic of the inner yoke, perhaps use a drop light.
Guys have done video mode while you yank/push on the tire top.
It will move, some. The big question is, how much?