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Still having trouble hunting this one down...headlights and wiper door come up at approx. 2700-3000 rpm while driving, then go back down as RPM drops to around 2000.
I have replaced the headlight switch behind the dash, the vacuum filter and the headlight/wiper door vacuum check valve.
The check valve would be a go to but you already did that, so maybe put a Vacuum canister before the Headlights to give a buffer supply during low vacuum times
I tryed several of those replacement check valves. Even the Gen. GM replacement parts one. ALL JUNK! none of them held vacuum. I still have one on the car because it looks the part and provides a spliter. But I run a generic vacuum check valve inline before that one, hidden under my distributor so my system actually works!
So, just cause you purchased a new vacuum check valve doesn't mean it works! Headlight doors open when switching side of the system has no vacuum.
Symptoms say that at open throttle when it is normal to have little if any manifold vacuum, your doors are opening.
Bad check valve, leak in vacuum tank or vacuum leaks in system. that's it. Start testing.
The check valve would be a go to but you already did that, so maybe put a Vacuum canister before the Headlights to give a buffer supply during low vacuum times
The head lights should never go down with loss of vacuum. If they do the mechanism is not locking. Usually a vacuum line arrangement issue. To put headlights down the headlight switch reverses the vacuum flow on the lock retracting the lock allowing the headlights to drop. This issue is vacuum line related, or the mechanism is frozen or broken
Still having trouble hunting this one down...headlights and wiper door come up at approx. 2700-3000 rpm while driving, then go back down as RPM drops to around 2000.
I have replaced the headlight switch behind the dash, the vacuum filter and the headlight/wiper door vacuum check valve.
Lights actuate normally at idle.....
...anyone had this, or have a fix?
thanks!
Verify that your new check valve functions correctly.
Simply suck/blow through it - It should only pass air one way.
You should be able to suck air through the engine (single port) side but not blow air into that side.
The reverse is true for the system (dual port) side.
The head lights should never go down with loss of vacuum. If they do the mechanism is not locking. Usually a vacuum line arrangement issue. To put headlights down the headlight switch reverses the vacuum flow on the lock retracting the lock allowing the headlights to drop. This issue is vacuum line related, or the mechanism is frozen or broken
I believe that you need to learn how these systems work. Popping up on hard acceleration and then yes, going back down is a common issue on these cars. And has nothing to do with a broken locking mechanism.
The vacuum system for the headlight doors is 2 vacuum systems. One system is the switching system, the other is the work system.
The small vacuum line that goes to the top of the vacuum relays is the switching line. When it has vacuum, it pulls the dog bone inside the relay up directing the vacuum to the close the door side of the actuator. When the small switching line has no vacuum. As in, it's actually shut off when you turn on your lights. With no vacuum to the top of the relays the spring inside the relays push the dog bone down directing the vacuum to the open side of the actuators and the doors open! Then vacuum returns to the small line when engine RPM drops and throttle closes. As soon as vacuum returns to the small switching line, doors close.
The large work side vacuum lines are connected to the vacuum tank and there large diameter size helps them hold more vacuum than the rather tiny switching side vacuum system with it very small diameter lines.
nothing to do with broken linkages.
I believe that you need to learn how these systems work. Popping up on hard acceleration and then yes, going back down is a common issue on these cars. And has nothing to do with a broken locking mechanism.
The vacuum system for the headlight doors is 2 vacuum systems. One system is the switching system, the other is the work system.
The small vacuum line that goes to the top of the vacuum relays is the switching line. When it has vacuum, it pulls the dog bone inside the relay up directing the vacuum to the close the door side of the actuator. When the small switching line has no vacuum. As in, it's actually shut off when you turn on your lights. With no vacuum to the top of the relays the spring inside the relays push the dog bone down directing the vacuum to the open side of the actuators and the doors open! Then vacuum returns to the small line when engine RPM drops and throttle closes. As soon as vacuum returns to the small switching line, doors close.
The large work side vacuum lines are connected to the vacuum tank and there large diameter size helps them hold more vacuum than the rather tiny switching side vacuum system with it very small diameter lines.
nothing to do with broken linkages.
Wonder if the OP cares as much as me. lol. Fact is, once my headlights are up. They wont go down under any vacuum condition on or off unless the headlight switch reverses the vacuum. I can unplug everything and they stay up. I can drive unplugged from vacuum and they stay up. Same down, they never go up unless the headlight switch again reverses vacuum. So if his lights are going up and down after being open, without moving the switch. He has a plumbing issue. Nobody said anything about linkage. But nice rant. Hope you feel better. THis is only a normal common condition on cars plumbed wrong. check valves have no bearing on the headlight system. I removed all mine. affects nothing except the max a/c door if vacuum is lost. Thats the only vacuum circuit affected by loss of vacuum. Once there up, they stay up until commanded down. Loss of engine vacuum does not make that command.
I believe that you need to learn how these systems work. Popping up on hard acceleration and then yes, going back down is a common issue on these cars. And has nothing to do with a broken locking mechanism.
The vacuum system for the headlight doors is 2 vacuum systems. One system is the switching system, the other is the work system.
The small vacuum line that goes to the top of the vacuum relays is the switching line. When it has vacuum, it pulls the dog bone inside the relay up directing the vacuum to the close the door side of the actuator. When the small switching line has no vacuum. As in, it's actually shut off when you turn on your lights. With no vacuum to the top of the relays the spring inside the relays push the dog bone down directing the vacuum to the open side of the actuators and the doors open! Then vacuum returns to the small line when engine RPM drops and throttle closes. As soon as vacuum returns to the small switching line, doors close.
The large work side vacuum lines are connected to the vacuum tank and there large diameter size helps them hold more vacuum than the rather tiny switching side vacuum system with it very small diameter lines.
nothing to do with broken linkages.