383 FI stroker, MSD 6AL
Had OEM starter rebuilt, installed same, no crank.
Everything worked beforehand. Key on the fuel pump runs, screwdriver to the solenoid and S terminal and I get sparks.
Seems I am getting no power to the solenoid S terminal from ignition switch???
Electrical is not my strong suite so asking all knowing CF.........
Bill

 

Check the fusible link. Check before and after the link. If burned, get a new one at NAPA or one of the wire harness vendors. Also check the neutral safety switch Jerry

 

Using a Multi-meter would be very helpful as knowing the exact voltage could be very helpful in troubleshooting. The difference in voltage is important to know and being able to test continuity would be very helpful in testing the car's electrical components. I use a Power Probe IV when working on my Corvettes. The PP allows you to apply battery voltage at the tip or ground instead. It allows you to test components as you go down the line and verify that they do what they are supposed to. I used it for checking my power windows, I applied full battery voltage and the window goes up and down showing that the motor was okay and then I went to the switch and I followed the circuit until I find the problem.

Tampa Jerry's suggestion is a great one to start with! If you have had any serious shorts in the car the fusible links burn open. I had a electric fan controller that "let out the smoke" and when it did it damaged one of the fusible links.

By the way it turns out that the fusible links can and do wear out all by themselves so it might be worthwhile to stock up a couple of the various sizes. Having them is cheap insurance to keep the original ones lasting as long as they could are going to fail at some point. I find lots of uses for the Fusible links as they were used a lot in the early days on lots of applications. I also get them online or at NAPA stores.

"Understanding that all electronic components have a little smoke stored in them so when they break they can release the smoke making them easier to identify."

 

If you jump the battery term to the starter term and get sparks-

Sounds like the solenoid is jammed or the starter is locked up- it should turn over.
I'd drop the starter and bench test it- otherwise you'll be chasing your tail-

 

when you jump those terminals with a screwdriver you don't just get sparks, you get a spinning starter motor. Something is wrong with that starter. Did you rebuild it? Or did you trust someone else?

 

So there is a fusible link in that little bitty wire going to S terminal ?

 

Left that rebuild to my starter guys in Lafayette, fully tested and I have been talking with these guys for troubleshooting

 

Manual trans

 

I would also check the ignition wire from the neutral safety switch to the starter S terminal. I recently found a poor connection that was causing intermittent sluggish starting and eventually no start at all. I thought my problem was the starter, ground, battery, etc. Turns out, cleaning that connection up was the main problem, and now my high torque mini starter has never sounded stronger. Good luck!

 

Well, should have got a clue when headlights dim with good battery. Renewed 2ga ground wires, back in action lol
Bill