Are the gaskets that come with Dynomax Headers any good?

I have a set of Fel-Pro 1444 would they be better?

And, I just saw in Ecklers solid copper gaskets for $57. What to do?

 

don't use the ones that came with the headers...

 

I use Fel-Pro and have no problems.
I've heard that the ones that come with the headers are not good. I don't think anyone on the forum uses them (that I know of).

 

When I installed my ZZ4 I sed Percy's dead soft aluminum gaskets with my headers. They worked great and if I remember right only cost around 30 dollars from Summit racing. I also used the collector gaskets from Percy's, too.

Mark B.

 

They are junk...so are the collector gaskets. After only 2-3 hours of running mine were blown. I went with Percy's aluminum on the headers and collector.
Even after the header bolts came loose, (finger tight) they held a seal. Copper are a bit more $$ than aluminum, but I was told that a mild HP (300-400hp) engine doesn't need copper. Jegs sells Percy's. Good Luck
Eddie

 

Percy's dead-soft aluminum for me! No leaks!

:party:

 

Oh boy, I've just ordered some copper ones along with the Dynomax Headers. The gaskets cost the paltry sum of £55 ($88) to me, no doubt with tax, duty, shipping still to come :( But I've been told by several people that they won't leak, ever (yeah, right!). The thing that sold me on the copper ones was that they can be annealed & used again, which is why I chose them over the aluminum ones (but that was before I knew what they'd cost me).

Hi Eddie, can your aluminum gaskets be re-used? (not that I'd dare use them: Percy is a term for something that would cause much mirth to my fellow countrymen :lol: ).
:cheers:

 

:iagree: best out there :yesnod:

 

You should be fine w/ any premium gaskets. Too much is made of gasket sealing worries.

 

Still trying to figure out these gaskets.

Is the DynoMax collector 2.5"?

Are these the correct Jegs PNs?
760-66001
760-66012

Sorta loss here.

 

I called Hedman to ask them what was best for the headers. I said I wanted to know what they recommended, and if they leaked I would be calling them back, and calling them out on the internet. The tech says "Fine, here's what to do."
Hedman says to use their gaskets, which are a paper gasket. Install them using Stage 8 locking header bolts. Torque them down to 30 lbs and start from the center and work out. He said no more than 30lbs because people start torquing the hell out of them to get them to seal with the metal gaskets and they warp the flanges.
After they are all torqued, run the engine for 30 minutes. DO NOT DRIVE the engine for 30 minutes, but RUN the engine for 30 minutes (less backpressure, less chance of a blow out).
Let the car sit overnight to cool and re-torque the bolts to 30lbs and install the locking collars of the Stage 8 bolts.
This is what Hedman recommended and says it works fine if you just follow the instructions he gave me. They did not like metal gaskets of any type as he says you have to torque too much to get them to seal and that messes up the headers themselves.
I did look at some metal gaskets and most of them offered so little material around the port that they were almost guaranteed to leak out of the box. I put some on my truck and that's just what they did. Make sure that if you use metal gaskets to not go nuts with the torque and that they offer plenty of material around the port to seal it up.

 

chevy has the same type of instructions but i think they want you to retorque three times. i saw the post on here about it but i cant find it. i dont remember the numbers they use or how many times to retorque but i know its 3 or 4 times.

 

BSeery: I am going to have the muffler shop do it. I already have the Stage 8 Locking Nuts. Just hate the thought of leaving my car overnight.

 

Funny thing is I am waiting right now for the tow truck to show up and take mine to get the exhaust hung. I got the headers done (with the help of some of the local CF guys) over the weekend. We had to change out crossmembers on my 1980 so I can have duals with cats. I also had to run new plug wires as my "under the motor" wires were in the way and had to get a set of over the valve cover wires and looms. Just finished that up last night.

I fired it up for about 5 seconds this morning and the sound was deafening !!!

The muffler shop should have them done today or at the worst, early tomorrow.

$500 for dual exhaust, from header to re-using my exhaust tips, no mufflers, and 2 new hi flow cats.

For that price, I hope it runs good, and I hope it's not toooooooo loud.

 

I run cheap gaskets and use high temperature silicon. I have saw cuts between my pipes and with a straight edge made sure the flange was flat. I take my headers off about once every 2 year for some reason.
I hate header leaks because they sound like loose lifters so I will not tolerate a leak.

So far the cheap gaskets, normal stainless cap screws and silicon have worked for me. Including the collector gaskets.

 

Well that is the first I have heard about possible plug wire problems. Hope I do not have that problem.

 

The stock method of running the wires under the manifolds wouldn't work for me. Too many places that the wires got too close to hot parts.

The tow truck just showed up and left. My car was too low to get up on the trailer. :sad: Now I have to find another way to get my car done.

 

Bseery,
Good advice on fitting the Headers. Regarding metal (copper) gaskets here's a bit more info gained after over 20 years of using copper head gaskets on engines. After running the engine up for 30 mins & torquing down when fully cold, don't assume that's it! What I've found is that the copper tends to sink a bit more when it gets a lot hotter. eg. 1000miles after fitting, the bolt torque is checked & is OK (the 1000miles has been done under normal driving conditions while breaking the engine in). Then it's taken it for a WOT blast for 10 miles or so & sometimes you'll find that the bolts will need torquing again. I don't know why it happens, but it does (& it can be a PITA at times!).
Some people try to be clever and use a higher torque setting thinking that they'll be one step ahead of the gasket (when it sinks slightly, the bolts will still be tight). The bolts may still be tight afterwards, but you're likely to warp the Header flange/cylinder head/whatever.
If there is a thin band of copper around the port/cylinder then, assuming the surfaces are true, the seal should be better. It's rather like grinding in your inlet valves - getting a thin seat will increase the pressure on the seat, which will give a better seal.
I've seen a 500cc single running 14:1 CR that uses the thinnest copper ring possible as the head gasket without any problems. I've also seen an 8:1 cylinder of about 350cc regularly blow head gaskets that are about 1/2" wide because the surfaces weren't perfectly true (due to too much torque on the head bolts :) ). Good mating surfaces are the crucial thing, I've found.
:cheers:
p.s. Headers, dual pipes, 2 high flow cats & no mufflers? Should sound great :D

 

That is a problem! I can't think of anything. :confused:

 

I've got the same type of problem, so I've bought a length of 2 1/2" stainless ex pipe & will hire a pipe bender when I fit the Headers. Figured I could bend the tube to tie the Headers into my existing dual pipes & make up an "H" pipe while I'm at it. Should be fun :eek: but I can get the exhausts exactly where I want them if I do it myself.... unless it all ends in :cry
:cheers: