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I changed the alternator from the 10si 63 amp to a Power Master 10si 100amp. An accident occurred that the +12 was shorted against the case or Ground during hookup. When I connected the battery disconnect con - bam all went dark ..Though I fried something.
Took it to the shop and guess - all the fuseable links checked out. I had previously run a heavy gauge line from he alternator directly to the battery, but not hooked up. When the tech hooked up this line - presto all lit up and +12 was not present on all points.
I am fully confused as the original car wiring was hooked up to the new alternator and no +_12 anywhere. Why would a heavy gauge from the alternator directly to the battery make this circuit work??
I changed the alternator from the 10si 63 amp to a Power Master 10si 100amp. An accident occurred that the +12 was shorted against the case or Ground during hookup. When I connected the battery disconnect con - bam all went dark ..Though I fried something.
Took it to the shop and guess - all the fuseable links checked out. I had previously run a heavy gauge line from he alternator directly to the battery, but not hooked up. When the tech hooked up this line - presto all lit up and +12 was not present on all points.
I am fully confused as the original car wiring was hooked up to the new alternator and no +_12 anywhere. Why would a heavy gauge from the alternator directly to the battery make this circuit work??
We'll be able to make better WAGs if you post pictures, and tell us what year car you have.
Are you aware that the stock alternator output goes to the junction block on the horn relay?
Are you sure you or the shop checked all the fusible links, alternator and starter?
bigvette1
I concur. I suspect you fried a fusible link down by the starter. You should ENSURE that your new lead has fusible links (or fused protection), otherwise you could have an incident where direct path to ground will catch on fire.
Did the 73 have an ammeter? If you have an ammeter you may be able to tell that the link fried if it does NOT work.
If no ammeter then a few quick checks with an ohmeter will let you know if the fusible link is OPEN.
BUT really, make sure that new big lead has protection.
Originally Posted by MelWff
Are you aware that the stock alternator output goes to the junction block on the horn relay?
Are you sure you or the shop checked all the fusible links, alternator and starter?