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I have to change the lower ball joints on my 82, what else should I change while I have it apart? Most of the rubber looks a bit aged and cracked but still holding up.
I did all the bushings, shocks, ball joints, as well as steering joints. Didn't do new springs and wish I had. I used all urethane and they worked well. Far easier to install than removing the old rubber ones. Made a world of difference.
If this was a show car I might consider going with tubular control arms but the car is a bit rough so I just want it to run and ride like a stock car.
JT
I DIY installed Energy Suspension poly bushings in my LCAs. I'd still recommend SPC UCAs, for the ease of camber/caster adjustment, and to get rid of shims. Dialing in lots of caster helps with driving feel.
Don't forget to order and replace the bumpers under the upper control arms and the bumpers on the top of the lower control arms. Be careful with the spring and if it is removed or replaced, index it correctly. See the AIM. Jerry
I did the stock control arms, but did replace one as it was bent. The new bushings pressed in easily and went together well with new bolts in most places. If done correctly, you can create a descent ride with the stock parts. Be sure to take photos and label the shim stacks when you take them out (taped together and labeled). Lastly, the bolts holding the upper arms are pressed into place so you have to use the nut to remove and punch them out (on a 78).
I did the stock control arms, but did replace one as it was bent. The new bushings pressed in easily and went together well with new bolts in most places. If done correctly, you can create a descent ride with the stock parts. Be sure to take photos and label the shim stacks when you take them out (taped together and labeled). Lastly, the bolts holding the upper arms are pressed into place so you have to use the nut to remove and punch them out (on a 78).
LOL I don't have any shims and the guy that does alignments pointed that out to me when I tried to get an alignment. It doesn't surprise me at all because the steering wheel is not straight when going straight and I checked the flat on the worm gear shaft and the notch on the steering shaft ( I had to replace all the horn parts ).
Do the upper bolts have some kind of ribs or something that makes it a tight fit? I was assuming that the fan shroud had to come out to get the uppers off...
@Jerry1978 I don't have any room to hit the bolts with a hammer, the passenger side has the fan shroud about 1/4" away from the end and the AC brace is about 1/2" from the end of the rear bolt. The drivers side the power steering pump is about 1/2" from the bolt...
@Jerry1978 I don't have any room to hit the bolts with a hammer, the passenger side has the fan shroud about 1/4" away from the end and the AC brace is about 1/2" from the end of the rear bolt. The drivers side the power steering pump is about 1/2" from the bolt...
JT
note post 3 and in my thread..yup not easy but doable.. i thnk i grabbed mine with vice grips and pulled off.
The bolts have ribs on them, like the wheel studs. I mentioned it because I couldn't figure out why they were not moving and pulled on them until I got them to turn. On the other side, I was able to tap them out with the side of a crescent wrench. Had to pull the AC to get the passenger A Arm out, but did not have to mess with the shroud or PS components. I dont recall them being super tight, like a press fit. I expect the ribs are there so the assembler did not have to hod the other end.