All, another hitch in my timing cover / chain install.

After straightening, cleaning, and painting the timing cover, it was time to dive into the chain.

Cloyes kit, same instructions as the last one I installed (454 for my squarebody), and plan to set at 0° - as in, no offset for cam/crank timing.

So the gear (sprocket) wouldn’t sit all the way back on the crank. Even with as much patience as I could muster, any tools, carefully as possible, it would still take “too much” effort turning my installer. I think we all know that’s cause for alarm - fwiw… if it wasn’t moving, I wasn’t ’wrenching’ on it.

Crank key / Woodruff key (inboard) looks like it’s seen some abuse. Maybe normal, maybe not, there have been engine issues*.

Since I’m in there, let’s do those keys.

Measured at 3/4” across the top [length], and I’m getting 13/64” wide, and 19/64” tall [0.296…” top-to-curve].

Looks like most of my options are 3/4” by 3/16” (0.1875”).

Should I be worried / concerned about the almost 1/10” difference? (The majority of my paycheck comes from signing my name on 0.001” tolerances, so when I see 0.1” it sets off an alarm.)

Pioneer offers the 839009 (3/4” x 3/16”, as a pair), so if anyone’s got a good suggestion, I’m all ears.

Thanks in advance,

John

[*Engine had a bad habit of “kicking-back” as Dad described it: “key off in N, let it kick, if it’s in gear, it’ll move… bad idea when parking.”

I resolved that issue with the ‘Shotgun’ diagnosis…

Q-Jet was in really questionable shape (replaced with 7029207 in amazing shape)
Timing was off (distributor rebuild),
Ignition tune-up with R45S plugs,
and empirical data from road-testing.

So the sloppy timing chain was the next puzzle piece, and here we are…

I get a feeling the ‘kick-back’ didn’t do the woodruff keys any justice - so I’ll replace ‘em.]

 

…aaand I’m sure y’all would appreciate an engine size, even though I’d assume SBC/BBC of the 1969 era had the same woodruff keys.

1969 350/350 (L46)

Some more research makes it look like 3/4” x 3/16” x 1/4” keys [both of ‘em on the snout]

 

A pic of the key may help...
But, it appears the standard key size is 3/16" wide. The key should fit in the slot with light hammer taps; it certainly shouldn't fall out on its own, nor should it require hard hits to seat. You may find singles at your local Ace Hardware or NAPA auto parts.

As to the crank gear, if it's not seated yet and you're having difficulty getting it all the way on, I'd say pull it off and try again. Check the entire crank snout for any burrs or picks that may hang up the gear. A metal file will smooth off any burrs with a few strokes. Install the key before installing the gear.

To install the gear, heat it in the kitchen oven for 30-40 minutes at 200°F, then quickly slip it on the snout. As it cools it will contract and secure itself -- no hammering, muss or fuss.

 

Great advice again, thanks!

There are marks from the tapping out with a chisel - feel free to read me the riot act on that. I tried a brass drift - no success. Chisel only took a few ‘medium’ taps before I was able to under the keys & ‘peel’ them out. Crank snout is still round and clean.

I'll check with Napa - gotta make a trip over there anyway.

They came out ‘easy’ enough, I figured (knew) that a few well-placed taps will get them back into their grooves.

I almost always forget that part of the point of everyone’s responses is to:
a) educate the OP if/when they need the info.
b) make sure anyone browsing & reading gets caught up to speed and learns something new.

I was more concerned about some sort of unique key for the L46. Even though I figured it was the same as any (almost) 350 Gen-I motor.

Pics of the keys: lil bit weathered’n’worn, chisel marks from removal, “lip” at ‘Front’ of rear key was already present - that was not from chiseling.

 

Those keys look like they've had a pretty rough go of it. I wonder if they were replacements that were too large and required a heavy hand to get installed. The key's I've had were pretty smooth-sided with no heavy scars. If sized correctly and installed correctly they should not be this damaged - light taps to install them and a few light taps under the front with a flat-bladed screwdriver to remove them is all a key should require.

 

So the timing set is installed. Took a bit.

Really appreciate the suggestion of 200° for 30min.
Thanks for that. It took two tries.

Anyone reading this (now, or in the future)…

Remove woodruff keys
400grit sandpaper strip
Brake clean on crank snout
Shoe-shine motion - wet sanding
Wipe clean

Install…
The Crank woodruff
The Crank sprocket (after heating, while still hot)
Then the [front] woodruff (balancer key)

Had to make some measurements…
1.2535” ID of sprocket
1.2525” OD of snout where sprocket sits
0.0010” difference -> 0.0005” clearance [Yep, 5 ten-thousandths]
1.2465” OD where balancer sits

Sprocket is 0.5446” thick, snout is 1.8440” long, so when the sprocket is landed, 1.2994” snout is exposed. My final measurement was 1.30075” +|- 0.00025”.

I think I got it. It took sliding on as far as it would go, a 27mm socket, hammer taps/smacks (not pounding on it), and that sound we all know indicates “it’s there”, then a measurement of sprocket depth.

Cam sprocket & chain installed [TDC#6] with dots at 12:00 & 6:00.

Setting a Crank sprocket seems easy enough, and it is once it all comes together.

Thank you for the advice, and my amendments (additions) to that advice - hope it helps someone in the future.

Pics taken once engine turned 1 rev, then Loctite on the bolts + final torque ; lock plate yet to have tabs bent over. Before shots (nylon gear) show chain slack, after would be better as a video… no slack.


Before - slack

Before - slack

After - new set

After - new set

 

Looks good!

 

Oil up that chain. I read somewhere that the chain should be soaked in motor oil for a few hours. The first set of gears look to be original. Jerry

 

I didn't soak mine, but did squirt a healthy bit of new motor oil on it so it was well coated.

In case you don't know: your pics show the dots are aligned such that the engine is TDC firing for #6. To put the engine to TDC firing #1, you'll need to rotate the crank so both dots are at 12:00.

 

Yep, oil will be next after making sure that 1 & 6 are truly at TDC.

I have no reason to believe I’m off a tooth, but - since the valve covers need gaskets… I’ll have a chance to verify rocker position (closed), and pull spark plugs to check piston location (TDC ; also, no exhaust manifolds installed yet, so it’s not a challenge).

Since I know what I did, the way I like to do OHV ​​​​timing… ​​​a careful eye will spot:
Pics 1&2 have the cam pin at 9:00
Pics 3&4 have it at 3:00
Crank key at about 1:30-2 in both pics

I took pics 1&2, then…rotated crank 360°, noted timing marks at 6:00 and 12:00 to get TDC #6, and disassembled.

Any movement in the crank (during my first attempts at sprocket install) was minimal, and immediately returned to the correct position - the cam was not moved.

After install of the new timing set, plate & bolts were installed to ‘wrist-torque’, turned over 1 cam rev (back to TDC #6), checked, and then Loctite 242 @ 20ftlbs.

Cam plate tabs will be folded onto a bolt-flat after checking TDC as many times as needed before I’m satisfied. Then oil.

I still have to install the new oil pan, so I’ll drop the old one, install the timing cover + gaskets + balancer seal, then the new pan [w/ 1pc Fel-Pro gasket].

Thanks for the suggestions and advice!