I'm going to start my Borgeson install next spring so I thought I'd completely rebuild my 1980 steering column first. I've read all the papers by Jim Shea. I've disassembled and cleaned all the column parts. The steering column shaft at the rag joint has a flat on it located at 12 o'clock (with the steering wheel straight). This must remain at the 12 o'clock position or the steering wheel will not be in it's "straight" position. Also the turn signal cancelling will not be balanced. Next up the steering gear must be set up in its middle position. This position is known as high lash. The borgeson box as delivered to me was in the middle position. This position is with the flat spots on the 18mm DD input shaft being orientated at 12 and 6 o'clock position. The steering box and steering column must be connected together with the flats to the top. That's how they built the car at the factory.

With the rag joint supplied by Borgeson, this is possible. I carefully marked the centre top position on the rag joint with a fine permanent marker. If you can't get the new Borgeson steering column end of the rag joint to fit, many have resorted to using the old rag joint end and then marrying it to the new end at the steering box side. This then presents a problem. The old end only connects in one orientation. This orientation will now force the alignment off by about 45 degrees. Hopefully the following pictures will help explain.

The steering column (steering wheel) will be off by 45 degrees or the steering gear will be off its sweet spot (high lash). You may be able to correct this by adjusting the toe in/out till the car drives straight. Unfortunately you will lose that tight steering feel when driving straight. The steering gear is no longer on its high lash position. Also you might notice the cancelling of the turn signals isn't equal.

 

This picture shows the Borgeson box in the centred (high lash) position. Notice the flat spots at the 18mm DD end are at the 12 and 6 o'clock position.

 

This picture shows the complete new Borgeson rag joint installed on the steering gear. Next to it I'm holding the old end that some install. The cross bolt is orientated at the top as if it's installed on the steering column end. Compare the orientation. You can't correct the position of the old one on the right. It only fits on the steering column shaft one way. They manufactured it like this on purpose for speed and correct orientation on the assembly line.

Jim Shea mentions this critical step as well as a few others on this forum. It is extremely important that the steering column output is correctly matched with the steering gear input. I hope these pictures help show why it's critical not to take apart the rag joint and use the old half.

Note- technically you could use it if it’s re-clocked correctly and then a groove is ground into the steering shaft with a carbide bit. Sounds like more work than removing the corrosion on the splines and using the complete Borgeson rag joint.

 

This picture shows the steering column shaft with the flat at the top (as if the steering wheel was in the straight on position). I slide the Borgeson rag joint on half way. You can see the permanent marker outline to show the correct orientation to match up with the 18mm DD joint at the opposite end.

 

I collapsed the steering shaft 2". It was extremely easy with the shaft out of the steering column. The lower bearing is the only thing in the column that provides resistance. Soak it with Kroil over a few days and lightly tap it each day. I highly recommend changing it out. Once you loosen the corrosion bond between the bearing assembly and the shaft it'll be fairly easy to remove.

I chose to use a fairly new to the market heavy duty sealed lower bearing by Wolff Engineering (M109SS). It's twice the price but personally I think it's worth it. The fit is that much better.