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The next step in my '81 LS1/T56 swap is a hydraulic clutch conversion. I had originally planned to keep the Z-bar my car came with, but the T56 I have is out of a 2004 Pontiac GTO and already has a slave, so I figure I'm kind of forced to convert to hydraulic now.
My questions:
Do you have recommendations for a conversion kit that doesn't break the bank?
I found this kit from Zip Corvette, but I know nothing about it, nor if this kit is even everything I need (or more than I need). It's also a bit more expensive than I'd like to spend, but it appears this might be the going rate for this stuff.
Assuming it's still in good shape, do I need to replace the slave currently in the T56, or can I save a few bucks (and hours removing the trans again) in this department?
Can I use the original clutch pedal, or will that need to be upgraded as well?
Is there anything else I need to know (or parts I need to get) to make this conversion work?
Not sure if it matters, but this is the new clutch I put in.
Last edited by rabinaba; Dec 23, 2024 at 05:00 PM.
Can't say about the Zip kit. But there is no way I would use a 20? year old slave/clutch/pressure plate. I've had super good luck with 2002 Camaro LS1 slave with a LS7 clutch assembly and fly wheel on my LS swaps. All new. Also a Tick speed bleeder.
Can't say about the Zip kit. But there is no way I would use a 20? year old slave/clutch/pressure plate. I've had super good luck with 2002 Camaro LS1 slave with a LS7 clutch assembly and fly wheel on my LS swaps. All new. Also a Tick speed bleeder.
The clutch and pressure plate are new, but yes, the slave is likely original. I don't know why it never crossed my mind that I might need a new slave, but it didn't and now the body is back on the frame, with the engine and trans in the car. I'd hate to pull the trans out, but it sounds like I may have to.
Also, I believe the Zip kit is actually from Silver Sport Transmissions.
So if the stock slave has had all the Fluid drained out of it how are you going to re fill it ? Did GM leave a way to bleed it ? Most OEM ones do not. So most likely you will be pulling the trans just to do this. If you go with an aftermarket Slave cylinder you can get a two hose set up and you will never need to do this you can bleed it with the trans installed.
So if the stock slave has had all the Fluid drained out of it how are you going to re fill it ? Did GM leave a way to bleed it ? Most OEM ones do not. So most likely you will be pulling the trans just to do this. If you go with an aftermarket Slave cylinder you can get a two hose set up and you will never need to do this you can bleed it with the trans installed.
I didn’t even consider this, but now that you mention two hose set, I believe it does have two hoses.
Yeah the 2002 Camaro slave has a bleed port. It's easier to bleed with a Tick speed bleeder because it brings to bleeder port outside the bell housing for easy access. Many lengths available.
I have a Mity Vac. Took about 15 minutes to bleed the slave.
I didn’t even consider this, but now that you mention two hose set, I believe it does have two hoses.
Here’s a photo of inside the bell housing:
Ok I'm willing to bet that the Slave Cylinder in the Picture is aftermarket and not OEM. Good news is there is no reason to pull the Trans to Bleed it. Since we are guessing its aftermarket almost everything aftermarket uses a 3/4 inch bore Master Cylinder and they are the most common.
Ok I'm willing to bet that the Slave Cylinder in the Picture is aftermarket and not OEM. Good news is there is no reason to pull the Trans to Bleed it. Since we are guessing its aftermarket almost everything aftermarket uses a 3/4 inch bore Master Cylinder and they are the most common.
Oh interesting - what makes you think it’s aftermarket?
Also, if it’s aftermarket do you think I can get away with just installing a master cylinder and not also pulling the transmission to replace the slave?
Without a bleed port how does one bleed the slave? I am 99.9% sure the pic above is a GM slave. The upper port is the bleeder port.
On my 68 C10 with LS6/T56 combo I used a 3/4" Wilwood master. Worked great. Depending on the pedal throw you need to confirm pedal travel does not over extend the slave. Hard line (nicopp brake line) from the master to a -3 SS flex line to the slave. The clutch line needs some flex due to engine movement.
Pic of my C10 brake master.
Without a bleed port how does one bleed the slave? I am 99.9% sure the pic above is a GM slave. The upper port is the bleeder port.
On my 68 C10 with LS6/T56 combo I used a 3/4" Wilwood master. Worked great. Depending on the pedal throw you need to confirm pedal travel does not over extend the slave. Hard line (nicopp brake line) from the master to a -3 SS flex line to the slave. The clutch line needs some flex due to engine movement.
Pic of my C10 brake master.
Interesting, you say it’s OEM while Gale says aftermarket 😂
Either way, it has a bleeder port - the main question I have is do I need to replace it, or can I just purchase an aftermarket master cylinder? I’d like to avoid dropping the transmission if I can.
When You buy a OEM or stock replacement Slave Cylinders for most cars it has a single line going to it. The unit is filled with fluid when it come out of the box. So when the car is going down the production line a quick hook up of the flexible line to the Master Cylinder can be made without getting much air in it. Generally, there is a means of bleeding it at the point of this joint, but that won't do anything if air gets in higher up. When you buy an aftermarket Trans and Clutch set up and get their basic system its done the same way. It's figured that the Fluid in the system will last as long as the Clutch and when the Clutch is replaced the slave will be replaced at the same time and the whole process reputes itself. When people push there cars harder than the normal buyer does the fluid will turn black and there is no way to change it. This has been a problem on C5 and newer Corvettes.
The reason I think your picture is showing an aftermarket Slave is well just because its got two lines. Also, the way they both pass through two holes in the Bellhousing doesn't look very factory to me. However, I have never delt with that particular Clutch-Trans before.
I’ll be installing it this weekend actually. I ended up picking up the kit that I linked above, but I bought it directly from Silver Speed Transmission. I’ve decided to drop the trans again and install the new slave - I’m not happy about it, but it seems like the right thing to do.
So like I said, I dropped the trans again, replaced the old slave with the SST slave, and installed the rest of the kit. It worked flawlessly and was super easy (aside from actually dropping and getting the trans back in).
But here's my problem now - the hydraulic line that runs from the master cylinder to the slave was resting on the header and it ended up burning a hole in the stainless steel braid. SST is sending out a replacement, but the whole line is one piece that runs from the master cylinder into the bell housing. I really don't want to drop the transmission AGAIN to replace this line. Does anyone have any ideas for how I could go about doing this?
Side note - why in god's name would they design the line like this?!
Hydraulic Clutch Conversion
