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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 10:00 AM
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Default Making a disabled car mobile

I’m getting on in age. I need some help getting out the differential and read training arms.

Is there a way to make the car mobile so I can roll it back on the trailer and take it home and then roll it in the garage. Repairs to the parts might take some time, even months and I do can’t leave it at the repair shop.
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 10:07 AM
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Get yourself some wheel dollies for under the rear and/or front wheels
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 10:35 AM
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Air in the tires, transmission in nuetral. If the rear differential is seized, then try the rear wheel dollies. The better ones are expensive because of the wheels they use. The better the product, the easier it is to move by yourself. If you are calling a flatbed tow truck, have them bring dollies and pay him a little extra to get it into your garage where you want it.
If its a transmission issue pull the drive shaft
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 10:35 AM
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A trailer big enough for your Corvette, some of the wheel dollies for all four wheels. On my trailer I have provision to mount a small winch which is more than enough to roll a Corvette on the trailer. I can then use the winch to help get the car off the trailer and back onto the dollies.

The dollies are very rarely on any kind of good sale. They sell enough that they don't need to mark them down. Harbor Freight had some but would I trust them enough to spend that kind of money on them? I would rather pay more for an American made product that I could be confident in.

Only problem for me is I have asphalt and concrete driveways on the same property. Rolling the dollies over big bumps is not fun and very difficult for an older guy with a really bad back.

There is a Corvette Restoration shop that I use occasionally. They would be one of my first choices as they could do it for you and the only hurt will be in the wallet. They do awesome work and are even authorized to do GM Factory Service to the new Corvettes. I am so lucky to have Tony's Corvettes nearby....
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 10:40 AM
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Are you asking if it can be made mobile after the diff & trailing arms are removed?

If so - I'd be tempted to find a pair of core T/As to temp install and find some way to tie them together in position so that the car could be wheeled up onto the trailer and then offloaded to your garage / shop. I'd get it on jackstands asap though.
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 01:40 PM
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The Harbor Freight ones are just fine. I have two cars on them right now. They only like flat, smooth concrete, though.

Do you own the car? Call AAA and ask for a flatbed truck. Have the Harbor Freight car dollies waiting when the car gets to it's destination.

For C3s, if you do push the car when it's rolling on it's wheels, wear gloves and push the tops of the wheels, never the fiberglass.
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Stoge
Are you asking if it can be made mobile after the diff & trailing arms are removed?

If so - I'd be tempted to find a pair of core T/As to temp install and find some way to tie them together in position so that the car could be wheeled up onto the trailer and then offloaded to your garage / shop. I'd get it on jackstands asap though.
Yes, exacty. right. I'm getting too old to do this in my garage on my back. Plus the diff is heavy. So I want to remove the differential and the trailing arms and get everything rebuilt at once.

So, I need to get the car home and in my garage after the removal. I have a car trailer. I am not sure if puttiong dollys under the rear of the car under the frame would work. I'm pretty sure they would not..

But the car would not have the differential or tires as the rear control arms would have been removed too.
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 04:54 PM
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Just a thought.
If you have the fab skills along with a welder I would build a dolly that the shop could bolt on after the diff and trailing arms are removed.
Kind of like my 73 Camaro project.
Use big casters. They roll so much easier over rough ground.

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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 05:10 PM
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it will be tough but you can make some wooden blocks and attach them to the dolleys and strap them to the frame. Or make your own wooden dolley that is wide enough for both sides and lone enough it wont tip over with big pnuematic wheels to roll on. Anything can be done with proper planning. Either make it so it bolts through the trailing arm holes or you can ratchet strap it around the frame
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 11:19 PM
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Whatever you do you are going to want some larger pneumatic tires. The kind you can get at harbor freight.
Because you will need to roll over bumps, car ramps, etc.
Even a 2x4 network would be strong enough.
The trick would be attaching it.
So it did not move when you hit a ramp edge and damage fiberglass etc.
I see you have sidepipes.
I would put it under the frame near the gas tank, because you can slip several ratchet straps around the frame back there, and attach it that way.
You bascially have over the top of the frame access from the #3 mount rearward, not forward.
A mini version of a chassis dolly for example. 4 wheels would make it stable.
4 ratchet straps to the rear frame would keep it from moving/twisting.

David Howard's
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Old Dec 27, 2024 | 07:53 AM
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BTW: The front tires and suspension will still be on the cars. But you guys have some great ideas.
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Old Dec 27, 2024 | 08:06 AM
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I frame like Leighs but just for the rear section is exactly the way I was thinking. narrower so it fits in the wheel wells but catches the frame in 3 locations on each side....
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Old Dec 27, 2024 | 09:20 AM
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Here are the plans Alan made for the body dolly above.
At least it gives you some basic dimensions.


I suggest attaching it to the rear crossmember and side rails as circled below, because I know you can get a strap thru those locations, between the frame and the body.

I strongly DO NOT recommend the jackstand method. They would be far too wobbly for what you intend, and the furniture dolly wheels are far too small.
But the height is nice.
I circled where I know you have about 1" between the frame and the body.

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Old Dec 29, 2024 | 06:21 PM
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In order to meet ur requirements, ( very little physical involvement on ur part) the best bet is to find a shop to do the whole job in house. U will pay the price but ur peace of mind for u and the car are worth it. Trying to fabricate a “ Dolly” for the rear of the car that will survive ( and preserve the car) taking it on n off a trailer would be quite the task. Not one that I ( at 74) would attempt. U risk damaging the car. So whatever the expense for the in-house complete service, u will be ahead in the long run.
The above advice is worth exactly what u paid for it.
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Old Dec 29, 2024 | 10:12 PM
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I'm lost one what you're up against. You need to move the car onto your trailer to start with. Unless it is a smooth hard surface dolly's with small wheels won't do you any good. Why does the car not roll now? If it is a hard surface, then a floor jack will work, and it can be steered with the handle.
Take the rear end assembly out as one piece. You're going to want to get the car up as high as you can. I would build Crib Blocks under the Frame in front of the rear Wheels. If the car needs to be moved while the rear end is being re done, then deal with it then.
I'm a sucker for a good deal on another project car. I have had to move a lot in various forms of disrepair. Sometimes moving a few just to get to the one I want.
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Old Dec 31, 2024 | 06:57 PM
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As I understand it, the engine and the complete front suspension and tires are all still intact and on the car. The rear tires, trailing arms, rear suspension, and differential are removed from the car....have I got that correct?

What I would do is go to your local U-Haul rental place and get two furniture dolly's. Those dolly's are good for 1000 lbs each, and have larger wheels for easy rolling. Next I'd cut up a few 2x4's and build some cribbing to the correct height lightly wedged in between the rubber blocks at each end, so the cribbing is kind of locked in place. Once that's done, place them under the frame just in front of the rear wheel well, making sure you have contact with the side frame rail and the cross rail.

Once at home you can get the rear of the car supported on jack stands, and return the dolly's.
I'm not sure what type of trailer you'll be using, but some 3/4" plywood side to side across the ramps should get you up on the trailer. A winch or plenty of manpower should get this done.

Here's a pic of the dolly.....
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Old Jan 2, 2025 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by OMF
As I understand it, the engine and the complete front suspension and tires are all still intact and on the car. The rear tires, trailing arms, rear suspension, and differential are removed from the car....have I got that correct?

What I would do is go to your local U-Haul rental place and get two furniture dolly's. Those dolly's are good for 1000 lbs each, and have larger wheels for easy rolling. Next I'd cut up a few 2x4's and build some cribbing to the correct height lightly wedged in between the rubber blocks at each end, so the cribbing is kind of locked in place. Once that's done, place them under the frame just in front of the rear wheel well, making sure you have contact with the side frame rail and the cross rail.

Once at home you can get the rear of the car supported on jack stands, and return the dolly's.
I'm not sure what type of trailer you'll be using, but some 3/4" plywood side to side across the ramps should get you up on the trailer. A winch or plenty of manpower should get this done.

Here's a pic of the dolly.....
See Pic for the trailer


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Old Jan 2, 2025 | 09:36 AM
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I would suggest larger diameter tires. Harbor freight has some 8" dia. pneumatic ones. $17 with caster swivel.

I have small ones on my furniture dolly / frame dolly setup and they are a pain.
I have the larger wheels on the body dolly and they are much better.
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Old Jan 3, 2025 | 12:19 PM
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Yes, use a couple of sheets of plywood across those ramps and it will go on the trailer easily. You may need a small piece of 1/2" to make a ramp up onto the 3/4" ply.
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