Making a disabled car mobile
Is there a way to make the car mobile so I can roll it back on the trailer and take it home and then roll it in the garage. Repairs to the parts might take some time, even months and I do can’t leave it at the repair shop.





If its a transmission issue pull the drive shaft
The dollies are very rarely on any kind of good sale. They sell enough that they don't need to mark them down. Harbor Freight had some but would I trust them enough to spend that kind of money on them? I would rather pay more for an American made product that I could be confident in.
Only problem for me is I have asphalt and concrete driveways on the same property. Rolling the dollies over big bumps is not fun and very difficult for an older guy with a really bad back.
There is a Corvette Restoration shop that I use occasionally. They would be one of my first choices as they could do it for you and the only hurt will be in the wallet. They do awesome work and are even authorized to do GM Factory Service to the new Corvettes. I am so lucky to have Tony's Corvettes nearby....
If so - I'd be tempted to find a pair of core T/As to temp install and find some way to tie them together in position so that the car could be wheeled up onto the trailer and then offloaded to your garage / shop. I'd get it on jackstands asap though.
Do you own the car? Call AAA and ask for a flatbed truck. Have the Harbor Freight car dollies waiting when the car gets to it's destination.
For C3s, if you do push the car when it's rolling on it's wheels, wear gloves and push the tops of the wheels, never the fiberglass.
If so - I'd be tempted to find a pair of core T/As to temp install and find some way to tie them together in position so that the car could be wheeled up onto the trailer and then offloaded to your garage / shop. I'd get it on jackstands asap though.
So, I need to get the car home and in my garage after the removal. I have a car trailer. I am not sure if puttiong dollys under the rear of the car under the frame would work. I'm pretty sure they would not..
But the car would not have the differential or tires as the rear control arms would have been removed too.
If you have the fab skills along with a welder I would build a dolly that the shop could bolt on after the diff and trailing arms are removed.
Kind of like my 73 Camaro project.
Use big casters. They roll so much easier over rough ground.
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Because you will need to roll over bumps, car ramps, etc.
Even a 2x4 network would be strong enough.
The trick would be attaching it.
So it did not move when you hit a ramp edge and damage fiberglass etc.
I see you have sidepipes.
I would put it under the frame near the gas tank, because you can slip several ratchet straps around the frame back there, and attach it that way.
You bascially have over the top of the frame access from the #3 mount rearward, not forward.
A mini version of a chassis dolly for example. 4 wheels would make it stable.
4 ratchet straps to the rear frame would keep it from moving/twisting.
David Howard's





At least it gives you some basic dimensions.
I suggest attaching it to the rear crossmember and side rails as circled below, because I know you can get a strap thru those locations, between the frame and the body.
I strongly DO NOT recommend the jackstand method. They would be far too wobbly for what you intend, and the furniture dolly wheels are far too small.
But the height is nice.
I circled where I know you have about 1" between the frame and the body.
The above advice is worth exactly what u paid for it.
Take the rear end assembly out as one piece. You're going to want to get the car up as high as you can. I would build Crib Blocks under the Frame in front of the rear Wheels. If the car needs to be moved while the rear end is being re done, then deal with it then.
I'm a sucker for a good deal on another project car. I have had to move a lot in various forms of disrepair. Sometimes moving a few just to get to the one I want.
What I would do is go to your local U-Haul rental place and get two furniture dolly's. Those dolly's are good for 1000 lbs each, and have larger wheels for easy rolling. Next I'd cut up a few 2x4's and build some cribbing to the correct height lightly wedged in between the rubber blocks at each end, so the cribbing is kind of locked in place. Once that's done, place them under the frame just in front of the rear wheel well, making sure you have contact with the side frame rail and the cross rail.
Once at home you can get the rear of the car supported on jack stands, and return the dolly's.
I'm not sure what type of trailer you'll be using, but some 3/4" plywood side to side across the ramps should get you up on the trailer. A winch or plenty of manpower should get this done.
Here's a pic of the dolly.....
What I would do is go to your local U-Haul rental place and get two furniture dolly's. Those dolly's are good for 1000 lbs each, and have larger wheels for easy rolling. Next I'd cut up a few 2x4's and build some cribbing to the correct height lightly wedged in between the rubber blocks at each end, so the cribbing is kind of locked in place. Once that's done, place them under the frame just in front of the rear wheel well, making sure you have contact with the side frame rail and the cross rail.
Once at home you can get the rear of the car supported on jack stands, and return the dolly's.
I'm not sure what type of trailer you'll be using, but some 3/4" plywood side to side across the ramps should get you up on the trailer. A winch or plenty of manpower should get this done.
Here's a pic of the dolly.....
I have small ones on my furniture dolly / frame dolly setup and they are a pain.
I have the larger wheels on the body dolly and they are much better.























