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I Have a '77 350 4 speed and will be installing the drive shaft that has just had the ujoints replaced as well as being balanced. Getting the yoke into the Trans is a no brainer. Installing the rear u joint looks to be difficult at best. The u joint is wrapped with clear plastic to keep the bearing caps on so it makes sense to not remove the plastic wrap until I get it close to the differential front flange. My Car is on Jack Stands so if I remove the Differential Front mounting bracket to get more room will I have major issues getting it back in place? I do remember taking the ujoints off ,was a real pain but putting it back in looks to be even more so.
I just want to avoid making a difficult assembly even harder. Of course the rear wheel will have to come off and maybe the exhaust pipe, hopefully not.
I Have a '77 350 4 speed and will be installing the drive shaft that has just had the ujoints replaced as well as being balanced. Getting the yoke into the Trans is a no brainer. Installing the rear u joint looks to be difficult at best. The u joint is wrapped with clear plastic to keep the bearing caps on so it makes sense to not remove the plastic wrap until I get it close to the differential front flange. My Car is on Jack Stands so if I remove the Differential Front mounting bracket to get more room will I have major issues getting it back in place? I do remember taking the ujoints off ,was a real pain but putting it back in looks to be even more so.
I just want to avoid making a difficult assembly even harder. Of course the rear wheel will have to come off and maybe the exhaust pipe, hopefully not.
I Have a '77 350 4 speed and will be installing the drive shaft that has just had the ujoints replaced as well as being balanced. Getting the yoke into the Trans is a no brainer. Installing the rear u joint looks to be difficult at best. The u joint is wrapped with clear plastic to keep the bearing caps on so it makes sense to not remove the plastic wrap until I get it close to the differential front flange. My Car is on Jack Stands so if I remove the Differential Front mounting bracket to get more room will I have major issues getting it back in place? I do remember taking the ujoints off ,was a real pain but putting it back in looks to be even more so.
I just want to avoid making a difficult assembly even harder. Of course the rear wheel will have to come off and maybe the exhaust pipe, hopefully not.
I Have a '77 350 4 speed and will be installing the drive shaft that has just had the ujoints replaced as well as being balanced. Getting the yoke into the Trans is a no brainer. Installing the rear u joint looks to be difficult at best. The u joint is wrapped with clear plastic to keep the bearing caps on so it makes sense to not remove the plastic wrap until I get it close to the differential front flange. My Car is on Jack Stands so if I remove the Differential Front mounting bracket to get more room will I have major issues getting it back in place? I do remember taking the ujoints off ,was a real pain but putting it back in looks to be even more so.
I just want to avoid making a difficult assembly even harder. Of course the rear wheel will have to come off and maybe the exhaust pipe, hopefully not.
Why remove a rear wheel or unbolt the front differential bracket? Maybe I'm misunderstanding the issue with a '77...
On my '72 this is how I did it: with new u-joints installed on the driveshaft and trans ouput yoke, slide the yoke all the way into the trans, this should allow the u-joint end to pivot up. Slide the driveshaft rearward and into the diff input yoke. I don't recall if I had the exhaust removed.
The bearing caps will stay on by the grease holding onto them – no need to go overboard on leaving the plastic wrap in place after you begin installation.
I Have a '77 350 4 speed and will be installing the drive shaft that has just had the ujoints replaced as well as being balanced. Getting the yoke into the Trans is a no brainer. Installing the rear u joint looks to be difficult at best. The u joint is wrapped with clear plastic to keep the bearing caps on so it makes sense to not remove the plastic wrap until I get it close to the differential front flange. My Car is on Jack Stands so if I remove the Differential Front mounting bracket to get more room will I have major issues getting it back in place? I do remember taking the ujoints off ,was a real pain but putting it back in looks to be even more so.
I just want to avoid making a difficult assembly even harder. Of course the rear wheel will have to come off and maybe the exhaust pipe, hopefully not.
hi, I have just yesterday swapped out my old driveshaft on my 72. Probably 30-40mins max. I bought a 300mm 3/8drive extension to get to the rear strap bolts. I have a single post lift but I needed to get the rear arms up a bit so the half shaft joints dont bind whilst hanging, othewise you cant rotate the rear wheels to spin the driveshaft to access all four bolts each end.
min also came with the caps taped on, I left in place until i was ready to bolt the straps on , I jyst cut it with a craft knife and pulled it out. The driveshaft wiggle out by dropping the front end and pulling ou toward the front of the car. No need to remove spare carrier or diff snubber mount at all. I put shaft back in from the front and then removed rear tape and located rear spider and just caught bolts. I forgot to say , the slip yoke pushes forward into the tailhousing enough to drop and replace front of shaft. Then lift up and locate front of shaft. A good tip now is to turn the slip yoke so that the taped caps on the front of the driveshaft are horizontal across the car and not vertical, mine were not and the weight of the shaft pulled the spider out of the top cap !! , I just caught it or i could have lost some needles. Make sure all four caps are located within the little tabs in the youkes and evenly bolt them up and torque to 15 ft lb’s good luck👍