After alignment and switching 2 front tires still a good pull to right? Any help appreciate Thanks in advance!!

 

Did you or the shop check if the power steering control valve needs to be adjusted? There is a removable cap on the valve and under it is a nut that is turned to balance the valve. I'm sure there are YouTube videos.

 

[QUOTE=MelWff;1608600087]Did you or the shop check if the power steering control valve needs to be adjusted? There is a removable cap on the valve and under it is a nut that is turned to balance the valve. I'm sure there are YouTube videos.[/QU

No but he mentioned something about that I will check it out Thank You

 

bclark,

Is this "pull to the right" a full-time thing or just when braking?

As mentioned above, the Control Valve may not be balanced dead-center. You need to get the car up on ramps, disconnect the steering ram at the frame.
Start the engine. Does the ram move or stay centered?

Another possibility is a caliper hanging up. The constant drag of the pads will pull one way or another.
The caliper may not be releasing the pads due to corrosion in the pistons bore.

And in some cases, a rubber front brake line internals are shot.
Then the hose acts as a one-way valve. Applies braking but not releasing.

 

 

Yes I made the adjustments yesterday and it is perfected, thank you, it was a little trial and error, but i got it done,

 

Great Job there bclark0609!

Isn't it a wonderful feeling when you fix the issue without having to pay someone? With the help of Melwiff, HeadsU.P. and Peterbuilt you were given great advice on centering the power steering system. It is awesome that the issue was a "less complicated repair" versus having to tear apart the steering system looking for the problem.

As mentioned by HeadsU.P. the brake hoses that attach the calipers to the frame have a short life expectancy (10-15 years) and should always be checked when brake issues pop up. Replacing those hoses will ensure that they don't reach out and bite you one day when you are least expecting it. Some of us are now using the Stainless Steel braided hoses in place of the original rubber hoses, the benefit being that the SS Braided lines don't expand like the rubber hoses can. The SS braided lines also make the brake pedal feel a bit harder when you step on it. It is not a bad upgrade and is a fairly easy project to do by yourself.

"Caliper sticking" is also not an unusual thing because Corvettes often sit for pro-longed periods. Flushing the brake fluid needs to be done regularly (every 3 to 5 years, minimum) to keep the parts working smoothly and the removal of any water from inside the brake system. Any water in the brake system will find a low spot and from there it will rust the brake line out from the inside of the tube. Today's gasoline that has Ethanol in it will do the same thing to your fuel lines if the gas is left siting for a few months. Be sure to use the Ethanol Treatment that neutralizes the ethanol and it's actions in your Fuel system. I don't believe there are any additives made for brake fluid so I flush mine with nice quality fresh brake fluid and keep it bled well. When I bought my 1968 Corvette we had to replace the front brake lines due to corrosion as the low spot was under the hood in front of the engine on the crossover part of the frame.

Again I would like to congratulate you on getting your Corvette to point straight down the road as you drive it. That is a real nuisance to have to deal with. But YOU fixed it and that is done with!

 

Good advice mentioned above about flushing DOT3.

The very least one can do and only takes a few minutes is to buy a small bottle of brake fluid and a turkey baster.
Pop the lid of the master and have a look-see. If it looks like yesterday's cup of coffee inside there, it needs to be removed.

However, never remove all the fluid. Leave just enough to cover the little ports in the bottom of the rez.
Refill. Now you are good to go until another day with more time.
Tis better than doing nothing at all to the fluid.