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does it crank and not start or fail to crank properly? Didn't read the whole thread, stopped when I read the professionally rebuilt line... That is used often around here and often it is the direct issue... Who says they are a professional, the sign on their building?
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PS: I used to be a professional copier repair man, amongst other office machines, copiers are some of the worst machines invented by man and working on them is nothing to brag about, more like cry....(todays are alot better)....
Easy way to verify your grounds is to run a common jumper cable from the battery negative terminal at one end then clamp the other end right on to a clean unpainted engine block spot. With the engine warm it might not crank well. The extra ground cable will confirm or eliminate the grounding issue as the problem. If it helps, bad grounding connections is the problem.
This is easy to try. I have not had much time to do anything with this since I started this post and very much apologize to everyone who has responded. I may get more time next week since my company has left.
My car show buddy bought a C3 that had been sitting dormant for several years. He is a professional copier repairman and obviously very technically competent. Somewhere along the restoration journey, he rebuilt the Quadrajet among the other systems. It’s been about 5 years and he still has trouble starting his car after the engine gets hot. I won’t go into the 15 different things he has done to remedy the “heat soak” problem, but he still has the same issue. The money he has spent on all THE FIXES would cover Lars restoring the carb five times. Send your carb to Lars, or you can do like my buddy and keep trying new FIXES and WASTING more money. The last fix was to pull the intake manifold, he told me there was something about the gaskets were not being correct????
I had Lars work on my carb several years ago, thanks
does it crank and not start or fail to crank properly? Didn't read the whole thread, stopped when I read the professionally rebuilt line... That is used often around here and often it is the direct issue... Who says they are a professional, the sign on their building?
60
PS: I used to be a professional copier repair man, amongst other office machines, copiers are some of the worst machines invented by man and working on them is nothing to brag about, more like cry....(todays are alot better)....
It was an old garage with several old hippies who came highly recommended. They didn't do any advertising etc, nor claim to be anything but what they were. You get a feel for who knows what they are doing, definitely got that feeling. And that work was not done yesterday; it was years ago....
I had the same hot starting issue with my 73 bb when I first bought it.
My battery cables looked new and were nice and tight.
When I removed the battery one day, I noticed a slight bit of corrosion dust under the battery so I examined both cables more closely.
I noticed the negative cable had some green corrosion at the insulation and when I exposed the cable, I found it was almost completely corroded through about an inch up under the insulation.
I replaced the negative cable and my hot start issues were gone.
Easy way to verify your grounds is to run a common jumper cable from the battery negative terminal at one end then clamp the other end right on to a clean unpainted engine block spot. With the engine warm it might not crank well. The extra ground cable will confirm or eliminate the grounding issue as the problem. If it helps, bad grounding connections is the problem.
Thanks, I did hook up a battery cable to a good ground after the drive yesterday and the no-start condition presented itself again. It did not help, still would not start. I also checked the neutral safety switch; it was ok as far as being aligned correctly and installed solid, so don't think that is the problem. Going to put a remote starter on the starter and see what happens. If it starts like that, then perhaps the problem is the ignition switch. Will look at it next. Either way, I'll probably be looking at the ignition switch. Lastly, the 50 lb starter ugh
I don't use the old heavy starters anymore. I use the later design Remy 96206 starter. Smaller 8 Lbs replacement starter from a newer GM product. Does not crossover in the parts listings but fits and works great. Brand new, not rebuilt. $76 at Rock Auto. Requires special non-original bolts.
My car show buddy bought a C3 that had been sitting dormant for several years. He is a professional copier repairman and obviously very technically competent. Somewhere along the restoration journey, he rebuilt the Quadrajet among the other systems. It’s been about 5 years and he still has trouble starting his car after the engine gets hot. I won’t go into the 15 different things he has done to remedy the “heat soak” problem, but he still has the same issue. The money he has spent on all THE FIXES would cover Lars restoring the carb five times. Send your carb to Lars, or you can do like my buddy and keep trying new FIXES and WASTING more money. The last fix was to pull the intake manifold, he told me there was something about the gaskets were not being correct????
I chased a starter problem with my 72 auto sb for months and eventually found it was the neutral/park isolation switch. I temporarily installed a short jumper wire and after that no more issues starting. Pretty dangerous way to leave it for long but I’m not one to just throw money and parts at a problem so after a few trouble free weeks I put the switch back in and the problem returned. Replaced the switch and no problems since. Beware though, there are a few different types of switches. Good luck
Okay, the latest is that I hooked up a remote starter to the car, went for an hours drive, pulled in the garage, shut it off, and as expected, tried to start it and nothing, no noise, I think the volt meter needle might have moved left when I turned the key, but nothing else. So popped the hood, punched the remote start button and bingo, started right up! Soooooo, would you now say it is the ignition switch that is the problem? Or the key switch?
What is your voltage at the battery before a long drive? My battery was new as of 4/23, but was reading 11.8 volts. I replaced it and it solved my problem of not starting without a jump. It was well within the warranty too, only had to pay the difference of the cost of a battery then to now.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
There are two screws that hold the ignition switch at the bottom of the steering column, check that it is not out of adjustment.
Is the NSS switch working and adjusted correctly?
My neutral safety switch was also correctly installed. But it was all gummy internally and the contact was intermittent.
my vote is still the neutral safety switch. Bypass it and see if the engine cranks.
My battery has always read about 12.7. And yes Peterbuilt, thanks, that was gonna be my next step, the ignition switch. I think those fasteners are 5/16.
Well, i tried adjusting the ignition switch then have up. Since I had a backup with the remote starter, decided on drive it this summer and this winter replace it.
Couldn't stand it, decided that since neutral safety might be the culprit, I'd replace it. Well bingo, problem solved with starting since replacement yesterday. Never woulda thunk it. Thanks again all you experts, couldn't a done it without y'all.
