Just recently purchased a 74 at the auction. Only problem with the cars is that there are no keys and doors are locked. Called the locksmith and had him make me a door key, but it still will not open the doors.

I read a couple of threads in here where someone made reference to opening it from the outside using an oil dipstick or something like that. Was curious if someone could send me a message and share it with me so I can gain access to the car and begin tinkering to get it running. It's been off the road since 2008.

can't wait to get this baby back up and running.

 

I’ve never tried it myself, but I have read about striking the T-top near where the latch is that the latch may release enough to remove the T-top.

 

So the key that the locksmith turned the tumbler but the door would not open, is that it? or the key still would not turn. And you tried the pass side door also?

 

Use a coat hanger and go thru between the side window glass and weatherstripping and hook the handle and pull or use a "Slim Jim" and go between the window fuzzies and the glass and grab the door latch release linkage.

 

Again, is the key turning the tumbler? Is the door latch moving? Is the door "stuck" on the weatherstripping.. Id try inserting a WD 40 tube between the door felts and try to lube the door mechanisms. Worked for me one time

 

Both side doors are seized closed. Tumblr turns but will not open. Tops will not release either. Car has been sitting 17 years. I tried lubricating the locks as well as the mechanism and no dice.

 

Do you have AAA (or generic equivalent) to help unlatch the doors?

 

No AAA or any of that. Locksmith made a door key but locks still wont move enough to open.

 

Hi NOOB!

Sorry your car won't let you in. I have heard that sometimes you can get in though the T-Tops, but I know mine are very tight and would never open that easily. So I assume you need to get the door lock/latch open....Good Luck.

Here are 2 photos from inside the door....


The first photo shows the whole mechanism, but it is just about unreachable from outside the door glass.
The second photo is from behind the lock and exterior latch handle, which is in the upper left of the first photo.

In the first photo there are 2 rods. The upper, more horizontal rod opens the door.
The rod that is more vertical with the black rubber piece on it operates the lock.

It is not clear if the door is not unlocking, or if is unlocked, but the latch mechanism is not working.
The corvette is unlike modern cars where pulling the latch from the inside simultaneously unlocks and opens the door.
If the door is locked, pulling the latch does nothing.

You said the key turns but doesn't unlock the door.
Does it turn freely or do you hear or feel the locking arms moving?

In either case, there are several places where the mechanism could have seized or come apart. Some are accessible from outside, some are not. Here are some things you could try...

If the tumbler is turning without any sound, feel, or resistance, it may be disconnected from the rest of the mechanism. You would have to create a tool to slip between door glass and weather strip in order to push the lock mechanism over - see the RED arrow on the second photo. OR somehow push or pull on the vertical rod.

If the door is unlocked then the handle may be disconnected from the latch mechanism. This is easier to reach from outside. You need a tool that has a rubber coated hook on the end the pull the rod over. Similar to this...



I hope this information helps.
Scott

P.S. I locked the keys in may car once. I called a locksmith who specialized in cars. He tried for 45 minutes to unlock the door according to the first method I described, but didn't want to scratch the glass. He noticed the keys were in the ignition with the door key hanging down from the ring. He pulled out a blank GM door key and a file and went to town. His key not only opened the door, but worked better than the keys that came with the car.

 

well, I was going to buy more tools and then my friend suggested using a rudimentary method with a coat hanger on the tea top latch and a couple of door shims old school wooden ones. Managed to get the door open just enough to pull down on the top latch now the doors are open and after lubing the locks and working them back-and-forth, they seem to be OK for now. Finally inside the car it's a miracle.

if you guys only understood that I have nothing but bad luck this is a monumental feat as if I climbed Mount Everest. Now we're pulling apart ignition to go get a new lock cylinder for it so we can try to start the car.

 

I think you need to first be sure the key is operating the locks. You should be able to see the position of the turn-**** on the door panel move from locked to unlocked: if the driver lock **** is in a 1:30-7:30 position, it's unlocked; 3:00-9:00 position is locked. Passenger side is 10:30-4:30 unlocked, 9:00-3:00 locked. If the lock ***** aren't moving with the key, something is disconnected.

When the locks are "unlocked", can you feel a difference in the way the handles press down? If no difference, like above, something is disconnected. If truly unlocked, you should feel the handle resistance change as the mechanism is releasing the latch.

You are going to have a problem going down through the top of the window slot to access the locking area as there is a plastic shield over the lock and latch to stop just this sort of breaking and entering.

 

Tomorrow, I'm going to prime the engine to make sure there's plenty of oil flowing through it and then try to fire it up after I get the steering column reassembled. Didn't have keys and didn't want to pay the locksmith so it took it apart to replace the cylinder. AutoZone had one in stock. Can't wait.

 

I'm glad you got in. How did you take it apart?. I'm just curious in case I ever need to do it!

 

like I said, we used a couple of wood shims to get the window bulged out, just barely so that we could fish a coat hanger in there in the shape of a U and then pull the t top latch down

 

Got new switch installed and column temp back together. (Had to order parts). Motor turns over slowly so I suspect my nee (wal mart) battery is weak. Now to add some fuel and spark to the equation and see if we get fire!

 

Yep, when I locked myself out of the 68 the locksmith couldn't even get in with the rod they use to poke unlock buttons - I ended up using it to pull the T-top latches and getting in that way. Worked like a charm. Looking forward to hearing that the motor runs!

 

That's fantastic that you finally got in and the doors open, I can just imagine your enthusiasm! Good luck from now on!

 

Katorocks
Good job getting in there without breaking anything!
Following along on your adventure...... it's been a few days..... did you get her started?

 

I know you’re already in the car but just an FYI….i had an extra GM style door key made of my original door key at locksmith shop and it didn’t work either. The teeth looked like they were cut correct but the long channels in key were in different spots….i guess keys have different teeth and different channels to work. I might file down the spine of key to see if that works as a backup key.

Have fun with your new ride. I like trying to get old cars running again. If that thing fires up and drives you’ll be 10 times happier than getting it open.

 

Yes, the GM keys for C3s were made with different channels which changed every sequential year. The key blanks should be stamped with capital letter and came in pairs (A/B, C/D, etc) where the first letter represents the primary ignition key (rectangular head). Here's the "code" to the blanks for each year from the Camaro.org group.