C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old May 9, 2025 | 11:42 PM
  #1  
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Default No Brakes.


No brakes. Please help.
I have never driven this car, brakes have never worked for me. Today I installed new 4 piston Wilwood calipers and soft lines, bled the system out of top 2 bleeder valves till there was a steady flow.
But the pedal won’t get firm, it just goes straight to the floor with barely any resistance. There are no leaks anywhere.
I’m think master cylinder, but don’t know how involved the brake booster could be. I can’t even slow down at idle, there’s nothing.
What do you think?
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Old May 10, 2025 | 12:02 AM
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Brake booster shouldn't be affecting this.

I'm not recognizing this master cylinder in how the brake lines attach. It also looks like the bolt to the master is not all the way cinched down. If the master isn't secure, it introduces excessive push-rod gap.

If after securing the nuts to the booster, you still don't have adequate brakes try the following: Leaving the bails on the master cylinder lid, remove the two bolts to the master cylinder and pull it away from the booster. Inspect the rear of the master for fluid seepage and the booster mounting surface for rust and fluid. Fluid in this connection indicates leaking MC seals. If there is no fluid seeping out the back, you need to bleed the master cylinder.
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Old May 10, 2025 | 12:41 AM
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Well, here's the master on my Corvette.

I don't care how much fluid comes out the bleeders. You have trapped air in the system.
Think, Phoenix reverse bleeder!
Push fluid up from the bottom.
Make certain master is level. Jack rear of car higher than the front to get the master level.
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Old May 10, 2025 | 06:48 AM
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Is that manifold vacuum connection uncapped? If that's open, that's your problem. Open

vacuum to booster.
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Old May 10, 2025 | 08:30 AM
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Satoru,

Judging by all the rust on the outside of the master, I would hate to see the inside.
Correction: Would like to see the inside.

Boosters seldom fail. Pretty stout, most fail proof item of the entire brake system. The booster has little to none of "pedal to floor" issues.
You either have a firm pedal or you don't. The booster assists the require foot pressure. That's all.
You have two different systems with brakes: Vacuum & hydraulic. (air / liquid)

You removed some of the best calipers in automotive history, that are affordable and easily replaced.
For some reason, you and others insist the Wilwood is the better choice for your C3.

Before you scamper off to the parts store for a new Delco master that may or may not be the correct one,
you need to test the old master with fabricated test-lines. Then, and only then will you know 100% if the master is truly at fault.
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Old May 10, 2025 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Satoru,

Judging by all the rust on the outside of the master, I would hate to see the inside.
Correction: Would like to see the inside.

Boosters seldom fail. Pretty stout, most fail proof item of the entire brake system. The booster has little to none of "pedal to floor" issues.
You either have a firm pedal or you don't. The booster assists the require foot pressure. That's all.
You have two different systems with brakes: Vacuum & hydraulic. (air / liquid)

You removed some of the best calipers in automotive history, that are affordable and easily replaced.
For some reason, you and others insist the Wilwood is the better choice for your C3.

Before you scamper off to the parts store for a new Delco master that may or may not be the correct one,
you need to test the old master with fabricated test-lines. Then, and only then will you know 100% if the master is truly at fault.
Thank you, great info. Old calipers were cracked and leaking, so anything was better. Building the car for my dad, he wants Wilwoods.

So just plug the exposed outlet? We’re just trying to get it in and off a trailer. This is not a long term fix. About to get an LS in it.
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Old May 10, 2025 | 09:40 PM
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Yes just plug it, put a rubber cap over it. However, just stop the vacuum leak.
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Old May 10, 2025 | 10:00 PM
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I’ve taken my car off the trailer half a dozen times without brakes.
Use 4x4 blocks or real wheel chocks and slowly roll it off a couple inches at a time.
Make sure you have a come along or cable or chain to hold the car if it starts to get away from you.
With the help of a couple buddies, this can be done easily.
My wife and I can load or unload the car by ourselves.
Once off the trailer start checking everything.
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Old May 10, 2025 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by OldCarBum
I’ve taken my car off the trailer half a dozen times without brakes.
Use 4x4 blocks or real wheel chocks and slowly roll it off a couple inches at a time.
Make sure you have a come along or cable or chain to hold the car if it starts to get away from you.
With the help of a couple buddies, this can be done easily.
My wife and I can load or unload the car by ourselves.
Once off the trailer start checking everything.
The company I’m using to ship the car across the country won’t load a car unless the brakes work.
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Old May 10, 2025 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Cajzmere
Is that manifold vacuum connection uncapped? If that's open, that's your problem. Open

vacuum to booster.
So just plug the exposed outlet? We’re just trying to get it on and off a trailer, company won’t let me ship without operational brakes. This is not a long term fix. About to get an LS in it.
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Old May 10, 2025 | 10:19 PM
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That vacuum line to the booster is only for the vacuum assist.
If your peddle is going to the floor, then this isn’t your problem
Either you still have a lot of ais still in the lines, the master cylinder wasn’t bench bled before it was installed or something else is the issue.
Double check the plunger as suggested.
If the booster isn’t hooked up to vacuum you should still get a solid pedal and the brakes should stop the car.
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