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OK, thank you. Is it possible for the headlight switch to be bad if the headlights do come on but I’m still having no tail lights and no instrument panel lights.
is there a main wire or some kind of wire behind the center console gauges that would affect the lights there and also on the speedometer and tachometer lights and tail lights. Just a guess.
I'll try to help. OK Gary. Yes it could be in your switch. And just as likely, Not.
The power source is different for the headlights vs the tail and gauge lights.
gauge lights do get power to gauges fuse through the tail light portion of the headlight switch.
So, do you have power at tail light fuse?
Perhaps this can help.
First off, if you're trying to work on electrical circuits on your 77 please do yourself a favor and purchase this book! Headlight side of Headlight switch wiring. Power through fusible link straight to the switch. Tail light/gauges side of headlight switch. Power from fuse panel, tail light fuse. Then through the switch to the gauges fuse for guage lights.
I'll try to help. OK Gary. Yes it could be in your switch. And just as likely, Not.
The power source is different for the headlights vs the tail and gauge lights.
gauge lights do get power to gauges fuse through the tail light portion of the headlight switch.
So, do you have power at tail light fuse?
Perhaps this can help.
First off, if you're trying to work on electrical circuits on your 77 please do yourself a favor and purchase this book! Headlight side of Headlight switch wiring. Power through fusible link straight to the switch. Tail light/gauges side of headlight switch. Power from fuse panel, tail light fuse. Then through the switch to the gauges fuse for guage lights.
OK, thank you very much for your help. I think I’m just gonna replace the headlight switch even though I replaced it about three years ago. Looks like all the fuses are good. I don’t know what else it can be unless there is a break in a wire somewhere.
Last edited by garykuter; May 15, 2025 at 02:37 AM.
Aftermarket replacement switches are known to be of poor quality. So you may be correct.
Me, I'd be probing with a test light before just ordering parts.
But that's me.
And while your ordering parts. Order that Bloody Electrical Trouble Shooting Manual!
I was going to start testing with my meter but the F---ING battery was dead. Didn't feel like going to the store to buy one so I said screw it and bought a new headlight switch anyway. Hope that's the problem. Thanks for your help
Aftermarket replacement switches are known to be of poor quality. So you may be correct.
Me, I'd be probing with a test light before just ordering parts.
But that's me.
And while your ordering parts. Order that Bloody Electrical Trouble Shooting Manual!
My battery was dead in my meter and pissed me off so I said F--k this I'm buying a new headlight switch. I didn't feel like going to the store to buy a battery for the meter. I'm pretty sure its the switch, but I'll see.
If you're not interested in NCRS or originality I suggest you install headlight relays and get that high current draw out of the switch especially with the crappy aftermarket switches sold today. I went through two of them before installing relays. The first one would blink my lights when the high beams were on because the switch has a metallic strip in it when it sees high current it gets hot and is suppose to disconnect the circuit to keep it from CATCHING FIRE. It was obvious this safety feature in the aftermarket switch was not the same. The second switch the overcurrent switch worked but after using it a few time the whole thing was getting hot enough to feel the heat if I put my hand on the dash. That's when I said enough and installed relays. Now all that goes through the switch is low current 12V to toggle the relays and the high current goes through the relays instead. I also upgraded the wire to a bigger gauge wire from the relays to the lamps so I can run high wattage lamps.
Hang in there Gary. These cars can be frustrating sometimes. But they sure are a blast to drive.
yes, they are fun to drive. Eckler’s is having a 50% off Memorial Day sale. I just got the headlight switch for eight dollars. Just a heads up in case you want to order something. Not sure how long the sale is on for.
If you're not interested in NCRS or originality I suggest you install headlight relays and get that high current draw out of the switch especially with the crappy aftermarket switches sold today. I went through two of them before installing relays. The first one would blink my lights when the high beams were on because the switch has a metallic strip in it when it sees high current it gets hot and is suppose to disconnect the circuit to keep it from CATCHING FIRE. It was obvious this safety feature in the aftermarket switch was not the same. The second switch the overcurrent switch worked but after using it a few time the whole thing was getting hot enough to feel the heat if I put my hand on the dash. That's when I said enough and installed relays. Now all that goes through the switch is low current 12V to toggle the relays and the high current goes through the relays instead. I also upgraded the wire to a bigger gauge wire from the relays to the lamps so I can run high wattage lamps.
sounds like I should go that route too. Thank you for the info. How much did it cost for you to do that ? and was it easy to do?
It's just 2 standard relays and some wire, oh and a fuse. 20-30 bucks and your time.
go to "mad electrical's" Web site check out there tech pages.they have complete easy to follow instructions for the DIY guy, and they sell kits if you want help.
I put headlight relays on my car many years ago. Most of us have. Takes all the load off those old switches and delivers full voltage to the headlights, Win, Win
I think tail lights and dash lights means your rheostat is spanked. From what I remember that is what went on my car and the rheostat coil was melted.
Either way relays are easy. Find the two wires in the loom, splice into those, then power and ground to alternator if you're lazy like me. All right next to each other.
I think tail lights and dash lights means your rheostat is spanked. From what I remember that is what went on my car and the rheostat coil was melted.
Either way relays are easy. Find the two wires in the loom, splice into those, then power and ground to alternator if you're lazy like me. All right next to each other.
