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Yes another C3 brske issue...

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Old May 18, 2025 | 08:46 AM
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Default Yes another C3 brske issue...

I have spent 2 days reading every c3 brake brake post on CF and google. With engine off I can build pressure after 2 pumps and pedal is hard. With engine running i can push pedal to the floor easily, ni firmness at all, and it return up when released. I can pull vacuum hose off booster and can hear the woosh of air.

I have replaced:

the booster twice
the master 3 times, two stock, now with Wilwood. Used push rod tool to measure correct length for adjustable push rod.
Calibers Wilwood 6R and 4R
Braided lines
added vacuum canister

I have bench bled the master, and bled the calibers using gravity, power bleeder, and old 2 person method. There is no air coming out of caliber bleed screws at all.

I have been fighting this for 5 years. Any ideas?
Thanks
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Old May 18, 2025 | 08:59 AM
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The rear calipers which bleed screw are you using top or bottom or both ? Are you using dot3 or mixing brands and dot4?
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Old May 18, 2025 | 09:50 AM
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Top inner then outer, DOT4. System was emptied and refilled with DOT4.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 10:48 AM
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To bleed the rear Wilwood calipers, are you removing them from the brackets?

Have you checked that your brake combination valve is centered? The "Brake" light may be off for a number of reasons, so check continuity at the switch.

Perhaps try a Phoenix reverse bleeder? Do a search, first.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 01:30 PM
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Re bleed master nose down.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 01:44 PM
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I didn't remove them from the bracket. Didn't know that was a thing. There isn't a brake light. That was bypassed/removed from the car way back in the 70's.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 01:46 PM
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That's a good suggestion. Getting ready re-power bleed so I'll pull the master and bench bleed it again nose down.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 02:02 PM
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I'm not a c3 guy,so sorry if this is a dumb question. Does the stock master have the capacity to work with the upgraded brake calipers?
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Old May 18, 2025 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SargeZ06
That's a good suggestion. Getting ready re-power bleed so I'll pull the master and bench bleed it again nose down.
Don't remove the master at this point. Jack up the rear of the car so that the rear of the master is higher than the front. Slowly depress the brake pedal. Any air should come out the holes in the bottom of the reservoirs. Assume you are doing RR, LR, RF, LF.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SargeZ06
I didn't remove them from the bracket. Didn't know that was a thing. There isn't a brake light. That was bypassed/removed from the car way back in the 70's.
So the brake light was bypassed, or the entire assembly was replaced with a junction block that has no internal valve? You likely would have noticed while bleeding if the former.

I don't have Wilwood rear calipers, but I've heard that they are position dependent during bleeding, and may need to be removed from the caliper brackets for best results. If you search the Forum, you should find some posts about it.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SargeZ06
I didn't remove them from the bracket. Didn't know that was a thing. There isn't a brake light. That was bypassed/removed from the car way back in the 70's.
if you don’t have a proportioning valve, I would install one. Not sure of any benefits one would gain from removing it.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 05:54 PM
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Yeah it does. I have the same Wilwoods & SS hoses with generic/stock rest of the Manual Brakes system. works like a dream since I installed them.


Originally Posted by Kyleg_250z
I'm not a c3 guy,so sorry if this is a dumb question. Does the stock master have the capacity to work with the upgraded brake calipers?
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Old May 18, 2025 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
Don't remove the master at this point. Jack up the rear of the car so that the rear of the master is higher than the front. Slowly depress the brake pedal. Any air should come out the holes in the bottom of the reservoirs. Assume you are doing RR, LR, RF, LF.
Car is on a lift so it was easier to pop off the master and bench it again at an angle.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 08:24 PM
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I got a little more air out bench bleeding at an angle. So after another power bleed it doesn't go to the floor. The pedal (not the arm the pedal is attached to) is about 2" off the floor. I would say the first 75% of the stroke is effortless then you can feel it start to firm up.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 08:40 PM
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Hmmm..... it should be better than that.
How old is your dot-4? Are you certain it has not absorbed bunch of moisture? If you are NOT sure then I would just replace it with DOT-3......

Is your pressure bleeding setup totally tight? Let's see a picture of your pressure bleed setup?


Originally Posted by SargeZ06
I got a little more air out bench bleeding at an angle. So after another power bleed it doesn't go to the floor. The pedal (not the arm the pedal is attached to) is about 2" off the floor. I would say the first 75% of the stroke is effortless then you can feel it start to firm up.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 08:42 PM
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Did you check the combination valve centered? "What" was removed? The brake light?


Originally Posted by SargeZ06
I didn't remove them from the bracket. Didn't know that was a thing. There isn't a brake light. That was bypassed/removed from the car way back in the 70's.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by carriljc
Hmmm..... it should be better than that.
How old is your dot-4? Are you certain it has not absorbed bunch of moisture? If you are NOT sure then I would just replace it with DOT-3......

Is your pressure bleeding setup totally tight? Let's see a picture of your pressure bleed setup?
Brand new bottles.

THe motive cover doesn't fit the Wilwood so I made one from a spare Wilwood cover. It uses the Wilwood rubber seal and holds 20psi steady.



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To Yes another C3 brske issue...

Old May 18, 2025 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by carriljc
Did you check the combination valve centered? "What" was removed? The brake light?
The light and button in the bezel. I didn't center the valve. It hasn't been touched since 1976 when my Dad bought the car. Maybe I should get a Wilwood valve.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SargeZ06
The light and button in the bezel. I didn't center the valve. It hasn't been touched since 1976 when my Dad bought the car. Maybe I should get a Wilwood valve.
Uh...

Can you take a picture of what is there? If you have continuity between the connector post on the switch, and "ground" of the proportioning valve*, the valve needs to be centered, and may be your entire problem.

*Yes, I know it's not really a proportioning valve, but it's the name everyone seems to understand. But pictures are even better!
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Old May 19, 2025 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Bikespace
Uh...

Can you take a picture of what is there? If you have continuity between the connector post on the switch, and "ground" of the proportioning valve*, the valve needs to be centered, and may be your entire problem.

*Yes, I know it's not really a proportioning valve, but it's the name everyone seems to understand. But pictures are even better!
There isn't anything there on the dash and there isn't a wire connected to the top of the valve. Is there a way to center it manually?

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