Hey all,
I’ve been trying to decipher what needs to be replaced here. My concern is that it may be more than replacing the ignition cylinder and I am hoping someone can share some knowledge as to if it could be a linkage further downstream. The cylinder turns free with or without the key, with clicks when turned.
It does not engage the starter.
Video is without the key, but it is exactly the same when the key is in it.

72’ C3

Thank you.

 

https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...ck_Rebuild.pdf

here’s a link for a later model GM tilt steering column. Not all of it is the same as yours, but a lot of it is. It has great cut away pictures.
its hard to tell in the video but it looks like you have some issues with the gear side of the cylinder. The fact that there is no spring return indicates there is no spring on the gear.
that gear moves a pinion which has one linkage midway down before the ignition switch.

 

There's a sticky regarding the ignition lock. A lot of good information regarding ignition lock cylinder. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...lfunction.html

 

The clicks you are hearing, I am pretty sure are the detents in the ignition switch, but if it does not spring back from the starter engagement end, it is either way out of adjustment, the rod is not engaging the switch, or the ignition switch is no good. The kickback spring being referred to is in the ignition switch. But if the rod is not reaching that far it won't engage. I have had them apart and see no way that spring could fall out of the switch.

Try to adjust it first. First thing to do is make sure the back drive lever under the hood is all the way up and that the cable, if it is still there, is not preventing it to come to full up. Then, make sure the rod moves when you turn the key. If the rod isn't moving, your problem is in the rack or sector gear. Assuming the rod is moving, you need to get the key switch and the ignition switch onto the same detent. You can loosen the adjustment bolts on the ignition switch on the bottom of the column. You may also have to remove the two wire harness plugs out of the switch to move it enough. The key switch on the 3rd detent which would be off, which is one notch forward of lock. This should match the ignition switch in the middle detent.

Once you have them matching you need to slide the switch up gently to take out any slack without snapping it into the next detent. At this point it should spring back from the start position. Hard to describe but hope it helps. If no adjustment causes it to spring back and the rod is definitely engaged in the ignition switch, and is adjusted anywhere close to correctly, then I would think the switch needs replacement. Is it a standard or tilt/tele column?

As a side note, that looks like a 69-71 column with the rectangular lock script.

Bill

 

thanks Bill. It is a tele/tilt column. And I’m not sure if this is good or bad, but I noticed that tilting the wheel to its lowest position makes the clicking go away, but returns when moved back to a more neutral/straight position.
Most everything else I have found points to the ignition switch and rod.
Any idea if you can make adjustments with only dropping the column and not a full tear down?

thanks!

 

Yes you can, but make sure first that the rod is moving with the key switch, and the back drive lever is up. If rod is moving, I would unplug the harness from the ignition switch and remove it from the rod and get it on the same detent as the key switch and go from there. Reread my previous post as I added a couple things. Where are you? Be glad to help out if you are anywhere close to Long Island.

You have to go a little deep into the column to service the rack and sector but definitely try to adjust ignition switch first.