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Hi All,
I just completed a frame off frame repair of my 1972. When I checked the toe out on the right side, it was large. So I removed all the shims from the inside and moved them to the outside but the wheel is still 3/16" toe out measured at the disc. The left side is true with the frame when measured with equal shims inside and outside. Right side. All shims on the right. Lef side. Equal shim dispersment. Fishing line measured off disc.
Do you suppose that compressing the bushing would rectify the excessive toe-out? I am trying to figure out what I might have done that would have caused the excessive toe-out. I bought rebuilt trailing arms from a rebuilder. I wonder if it could be bent?
I suppose that I could capitulate and bring it into an alignment shop, but I was hoping to carry on with my shoestring budget.....
I can't speak for other rebuilders, but I always check arms for rot and being bent. Original arms are not bad unless impacted hard, like from an accident, sliding into a tree, or curb. It is not uncommon to find bent arms, usually the work of an alignment shop.
The bushings do not appear compressed enough and if a rebuilder did that, I would be checking the arms and the axle for endplay, cause that's not too impressive.
Here are some I just did so you can get a better look at yours to see. If the rubber is at the OD of the steel cap they are good. Maybe it is the picture but check yours.
I put my money on a bent trailing arm as the culprit.
If you removed all shims from the inside and still have 3/16" toe out then I'd say it's highly likely you have a bent arm.
The bushings were installed with the same amount of squish as the drivers side and that arm looks properly positioned in the pocket.
Squishing the bushings a bit more may allow you to force the arm inboard a bit further but it's not fixing the root cause and future adjustment is compromised (maxed out)
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Rear wheel alignment.
