When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've been through the forums and cannot find the answer I am looking for regarding the parking brake on my 78, and I really need em.The street in front of my house is about 8 feet higher than my garage, and the driveway’s only about 60 feet long—so it's got a decent slope. My midlife crisis (the car) needs a motor rebuild badly, but for now, I just move it between the garage and the cul-de-sac. Last time I moved it, the brake pedal went straight to the floor. The reservoir was bone dry, so clearly, I’ve got to fix that before worrying about how fast it goes. Stopping is kind of important.
The parking brake has never worked, so getting it back down into the garage was a nerve-wracking blend of clutch control, foot gymnastics, and pure adrenaline.
It’s in the garage now, rear end on jack stands, driver’s side wheel off. I’ve got new drum brakes, all the cables, and even a power bleeder ready for the calipers. The new drums came with fresh hardware, but didn’t include the hold-down pins—what I’ve always called “nails.” I know I can buy them separately, but the ones I removed were too bent to get a clean measurement.
I checked the service manual, but there’s no spec listed for pin length. They’re not included in any of the kits I’ve seen online either, and I don’t want to buy an entire kit just for four pins. I tried asking at a few parts stores, but when I say I need drum brake parts for this car, they look at me like I have two heads.
Does anyone know the correct length for the hold-down pins on these rear drums? Also, just to clarify—are they officially called “nails” or “hold-down pins”? The Corvette service manual (1966–1982) calls them “hold-down nail” in one section and “hold-down pin” in another. I'd like to use the right term when I go hunting for replacements.
When you say drum I assume you mean rear brake rotor.
The part you need is a parking brake shoe anchor pin. See link below.
You should consider the original factory service manual for your specific year not one that covers multiple years. Pin
I know I can buy them separately, but the ones I removed were too bent to get a clean measurement.
If purchased from an online vendor, you'll pay more than the parts are worth just for shipping.
These are pretty standard, universal parts. Hammer your bent pin relatively straight and take it to NAPA, O'Reilly's, or even a GM dealer's parts counter. Make sure you say "parking brake shoe anchor pin" when asking for it.
@barkingrats. One would think it is that easy. But when you go to the parts stores on a Saturday and the pimply faced kids at the counter can't find anything because it isn't on the computer you have to wait until Monday when one of the "old men" is working so you have at least half a chance that they might have been born before 1985 and actually has a clue what drum brakes are.
Thankfully, I was able to get both pins out. One was easy, it just fell out, the other I had to remove the 4 rusty 3/8 x 24 nuts and losening the anchor bolt to get enough room to get it out.
I know based on what I am seeing, I should really tear the entire thing apart and repack if not replace the wheel bearings, but for now I am more concerned with making it stop, and making it stay where I stopped it at. I will come back to this after I get done with the engine/trans work.
For those who haven't worked on these, there is one pin held captive by the caliper bracket. It sits in a pocket.
Mindless- you have the pins out and loosen the anchor bolt. So, given the close proximity to the axle flange and the fact it should have a lock holding it in place, I assume you have the axle out? In which case replacing the parking brake is simple enough. If you don't have the axle out, working behind the axle flange is tricky- as I know you know.
Check your new pins. Every new SS parking brake kit I use I have to fit the parts and the pins are one that need to be checked. Many times, they are stamped out and not square to sit in the spring cup. If they don't seat as they should, they will come apart. If you use common steel pins, they may be too long. Since yours are bent now, maybe they were wrong from the start? I have pins but I am not going anywhere near my shop today. If you don't have the correct length let me know and I can pull one tomorrow and check it.
@barkingrats. One would think it is that easy. But when you go to the parts stores on a Saturday and the pimply faced kids at the counter can't find anything because it isn't on the computer you have to wait until Monday when one of the "old men" is working so you have at least half a chance that they might have been born before 1985 and actually has a clue what drum brakes are.
Ya gotta stop calling these drum brakes. Anyone looking in an applications book is going to turn up a dead end because Corvettes did not have drum brakes after '64. Only refer to it as a parking brake from now on.
I'm not sure what the correct length is. The best measurement I can get is 1.750 inches. I will try to get a better measurement when I get to the passenger side. For now, I am focusing on getting this one cleaned up and making sure everything that is supposed to move does. I've already chased the threads on the lug studs, and nuts, along with the 3/8 24 studs for the shield.
I'm also contemplating walnut blasting all of it and painting it black with high temp paint. I've got the equipment to do it after doing the intake ports and valves on my son's VW.
No real rush here, I'm just making sure I have all the parts.
Before taking my "new to me" Corvette out to see how fast it was, I went to a garage and rebuilt the parking brake so I would have some sort of backup brake system. I refuse to try and see how fast a car is until I know just how fast it will stop.
I installed a Stainless Parking brake parts on my 1968 C3 some 34 years ago and it still works great! It is still able to hold the car still on a hill and that is all that really matters. I used Spray Graphite to lubricate the parts and they are still free and moving easily.
It looks like you are trying to do the job the best way possible and that should work out well for you in the end!
Having a Sand Blasting cabinet and Powder Coating equipment sure makes restoring the parts easier. I remove the part, clean it and the sand blast it and re-coat it in either paint of powder coating. I have an old kitchen oven in my garage to make the powder coating an in house item. I have also plated parts in copper, nickel and even started anodizing my own parts. Caswell is the place for the great tools and materials for restoring many surfaces. Take a peek at: https://caswellplating.com/ and see what is out there available for our use!