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not getting any voltage to the gauge cluster lights (all the gauges work). I just put in a new printed circuit board, and still the same issue. The fasten bulb light is the only one worrking.. I tested the voltage across the terminals where the light bulbs go, so i know its not the bulbs themselves.. What a i missing ?
when i twist the headlight dimmer, the kick panel lights come on, but not the gauge cluster.. I've replaced the bulbs with LED
Unless you specifically bought bi-directional LEDs,(polarity agnostic, or whatever), it is possible that the bulbs are inserted backwards.
Do the gauge lights work on the tach/speedo? (I'm assuming you mean the center cluster, both have printed circuit boards, and the same bayonet mount light bulb sockets)
Hi - yes, i'm talking about the center cluster, i have not yet taken apart the tach/speedo. I put a volt meter across the circuit board terminals (where the bulb makes contact) and there is no voltage, so i know its not the bulb or housing
My gauge cluster connector was damaged. A PO had soldered a terminal on the PCB, which bent a pin, which didn't connect when I changed the PCB (easy fix, though) Can you check voltages on the connector? When I get in front of a computer, I can post a diagram, if you havent found it.
i've got constant 12v across the black and orange wire at the cluster connector. Also as mentioned earlier, the seatbelt warning light does come on for a few seconds before it turns off as expected..thats the only bulb working
As much as we all respected Ernie and the contributions he made to the Corvette community I don't like that drawing above.
The PCB board has 2 sides, each side has it's own ground.
These 2 grounds to the PCB come from the same source...
ALL of the instrument lighting grounds are Terminal 1 of the 12 cell connector housing.
Your Fasten Seatbelt Light is coming on, that tells me Terminal 1 is good at FSBL...
The Orange wire (Hot at all times) is just for the clock.
Your wire colors may differ from my photo because I made this for my 1977
ok.. i've traced the problem to the gray wire that is supposed to send power to the instrument panel lights. checked the fuse, and its not blown. If i test the power across that fuse, there is zero voltage. when i turn the headlight switch, the kick panel lights come on, so dont think the switch is bad?
The Curtesy lights are a different circuit from the Instrument lights.
Check voltage at the short INST fuse while rotating the headlight **** full bright.
If not full bright you will have a voltage drop...
ok.. i've traced the problem to the gray wire that is supposed to send power to the instrument panel lights. checked the fuse, and its not blown. If i test the power across that fuse, there is zero voltage. when i turn the headlight switch, the kick panel lights come on, so dont think the switch is bad?
i used my volt meter..touched the positive lead to one side of the fuse terminal, and then the other lead to ground.. I tried putting the red lead on each side of the fuse
i used my volt meter..touched the positive lead to one side of the fuse terminal, and then the other lead to ground.. I tried putting the red lead on each side of the fuse
So, you're see zero volts on either side of the fuse? Then that circuit must be swtiched through the headlight switch. Was the the headlight switch ON?
correct .. zero volts on either side of the fuse.. i had the headlights on.. i am going to get under there again in the morning and start from scratch.
correct .. zero volts on either side of the fuse.. i had the headlights on.. i am going to get under there again in the morning and start from scratch.
You MUST turn the headlight switch **** to FULL bright...
If you don't you will have a voltage drop because of the rheostat...
And if the headlight switch is not the original switch or a cheep China made switch who knows what voltage the rheostat is actually delivering to the circuit...
You MUST turn the headlight switch **** to FULL bright...
If you don't you will have a voltage drop because of the rheostat...
And if the headlight switch is not the original switch or a cheep China made switch who knows what voltage the rheostat is actually delivering to the circuit...
Some switches, that rheostat glows red hot, which you can't see inside the dash. If you can get to it, just turn it on and look at it. If it starts to glow, replace it. Even the oe switches can do that.
OK! I think i figured it out. The switch must be bad/worn.. if I turn the **** and twist ever so slightly i can get voltage. New switch is in order! thanks everyone for the help!!
'79 gauge cluster lights
