Fuel pump started leaking pretty good yesterday and went under to look and found 2 very hard hoses and a bunch of fuel sprayed around. What's the easiest way to stop fuel flow to replace those hoses? Emptying the tank seems like the easiest to me, but maybe someone has a trick? I searched but couldn't find an answer.
I had just topped off on the way home, so I have a very full tank.
Thanks for any help.

 

Make use of gravity.
Put front end of car Up on ramps OR jack only the front end up; positioning fuel tank lowest and below fuel pump.

*suggest replace those hoses near fuel pump with MOLDED "S-shaped" rubber hoses intended just for that application.
Often, trying to use hose from a reel results in slight kink(s) which devolves into flow headaches.

 

Found this older thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tallation.html

 

My experience is you need to empty the tank AND raise the front of the car.

 

Thank you!! I knew there would be some very simple trick! This will be sooo much easier now.

 

Cajzmere,

The question is, how fast can you swap a rubber hose?

If you have pieces of 1 x 10 or 1 x 12, lay that on the garage floor. Then place you ramps on top of the planks as an approach. And it now makes the gas tank a little lower.
You would be surprised what that extra height up front does for clearance.

There is a tool used for precise drilling into metal. It's called a drift punch or center punch (Harbor Freight)
It has such a perfect taper on the shank that it seals rubber brake hoses, vacuum hoses and fuel lines.
With the front up on ramps, disconnect supply line, insert the punch.
Now you have several minutes to swap-out the preformed "S" hose.
No need to drain the tank, but work quickly.

 

No need to drain the tank. Jack up the front of the car and put on jack stands. At the rear of the car pinch off the rubber line from the tank to the hard line on the passenger side of the car. For pinching, I use a pair of needle nose vice grips with rubber hose on each of the pincers of the vice grip. Once you have the connection opened up at the pump, there should be a small amount of fuel left in the lines that will leak out. I am not familiar with the lines from the frame hard line to your pump on your specific application, but you may need the factory "S" line. If not, purchase fuel injection line at your local auto store. It has a burst rating of 60 plus PSI and is resistant to the new fuels of today. Once all of this is completed and not leaking, consider replacing the rear lines as well. I would drive the car until the tank is almost empty and jack up the car so the fuel in the is in back of the tank away from the sender. You can easily see the sender through the gas cap opening. Lastly, be careful. Good luck. Jerry

 

What he said. Also, you can also just clamp the hose with vice grips before or quickly after removal. You don’t have to worry about damaging the old hose since you’ll be tossing it. I’d clamp the feed end, put the new hose on (feed end) then undo the supply end and quickly mount the supply end of the new hose.
I wouldn’t use vice grips on a new/good hose, but one being replaced only.

 

When I replaced my rubber fuel hoses to the pump a couple years ago I just yanked off the old hoses and quickly put a large vacuum cap over the hard line. Sure there was a little spill in the transition, but the vacuum caps held the fuel in just fine with no leaks until the job was done, then repeat for the new hoses, again with a little spillage.

 

Relieve fuel system pressure by pulling the fuel pump fuse/relay and running the engine until it dies. Then clamp the hoses near the tank to minimize spillage when disconnecting. Have rags ready for residual fuel. No need to drain the tank. Replace hoses with fuel-rated ones and proper clamps.

 

I would just make sure the area is clear in case gas leaks..which it will…especially if something goes wrong.

check for gas in oil too

 

Anything to do with Gasoline requires a good sized, functional FIRE EXTINGUISHER near where you are working. I suggest keeping a fire extinguisher in the car as well as the garage nearby. IF you ever have a fire you want to be able to put it out quickly and quietly. I have had a ride-on lawn mower that caught fire and it really woke me up. I went to my garage and the fire extinguisher was shown to be full but it was useless as it had no pressure. I went to three different fire extinguishers before finding a good one. The last one was in my kitchen and thankfully it was working. I was out off breath trying to find a good fire extinguisher, that is not a good thing.

I keep fire extinguishers in both garages, the car port and in my kitchen. I am no longer using the cheaper fire extinguishers but instead am using a name brand of quality fire extinguishers that can be refilled every few years. The unit I keep in my C3 is an older HALON unit and I like that because of the lack of chemical residue that is left on your engine after a discharge. Halon smothers the fire as well but can disappear pretty quickly under a car during or after a fire.

If you want to be really on the ball you might consider a Fire Blanket for the garage or elsewhere. The fire blanket is applied over the fire and can smother the fire if used properly. They are extremely handy to have "just in case" and are readily available at Harbor Freight. They are really great for putting out a fire that has started to spread.

Fuel line clamps are a great thing to keep in your tool box. Fuel Injection Hose Clamps are a great thing to swap to while you are at it. I use the plastic clamps that do not dig into the hose while you are clamping it off temporarily. The fuel injection rated hose clamps have metal around the entire hose so the threads don't cut into the rubber. I also only use the newer Fuel Injection hose on my engines as it is rated for higher working pressures.

Any time you are working with gasoline we need to exercise extra caution to keep it under control. Gasoline and pressure can be a bad thing to deal with. I like to open the gas cap and to try and relieve any pressure that has built up inside the system before opening any gas lines under the car. Have a receptacle for the gasoline that got out and move it outside as soon as is possible.

Be Safe while you enjoy your Corvette!

 

Why don't you just clamp off the rubber hose coming out of the tank at the rear of the car? Or better yet, just put a pan under the fuel pump and put your finger over the FP outlet while you swap out the hoses? You will spill a little fuel but much easier than jacking the car and draining the tank.

 

Distortion.

Not a big fan of squeezing the crap out rubber hoses. Whether its vacuum, heater, brake or fuel, the internals of hoses is merely nylon cords.
You would think that any rubber that is deformed for a few minutes would bounce back to normal diameter and flow.
Most will. Some will never recoup.

When installing rubber fuel lines, use the "fuel injection" type clamps. A little more money, superior clamping seal and never chew-up or distort the rubber.
Unlike screw worm-drive clamp types

 

Breeze brand clamps (LINER versions), Liner shields screw serrations, Hi-Quality, All USA, available partly or entirely stainless.
Find locally at commercial/industrial supply, Class 8 (HD) truck supply/parts; also online.
All sizes from fuel hose thru radiator hose. Also, constant torque and V-band clamps.
Once you've used a Breeze clamp, you won't go back.

https://www.breezehoseclamps.com/breeze/liner/