When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
my original Amperemeter of the center column does not work.... I'm not sure if a shunt has to be attached like it is for the fuel gauge.
When removing it from the frame and attach it to a laboratory power supply (not permant, only appyling power for a wink of an eye, the needle moves a little.
So I think the gauge itself is not the root cause. There is no movement of the needle, neither while cranking nor high engine rpms.
Can someone provide a procedure for troubleshooting this problem?
The battery is being charged during normal operation. Means, the generator does its work.
Is there something missing at Amp-gauge?
Sockets for lamps are made by myself. A central groundig point is available to avoid contact problems by corrision. All gauges work well, except Amp-Gauge.
Thanks a lot in advance. See attched pic of the instrumental block . Is there something missing at Amp-gauge?
FlashJack
I did not remember so I went and dug up a picture.
Good work on your dash lights. I went to LED strip lighting.
Here is what the back side of the ammeter on my 68 looks like:
Originally Posted by FlashJack
Hello,
my original Amperemeter of the center column does not work.... I'm not sure if a shunt has to be attached like it is for the fuel gauge.
When removing it from the frame and attach it to a laboratory power supply (not permant, only appyling power for a wink of an eye, the needle moves a little.
So I think the gauge itself is not the root cause. There is no movement of the needle, neither while cranking nor high engine rpms.
Can someone provide a procedure for troubleshooting this problem?
The battery is being charged during normal operation. Means, the generator does its work.
Is there something missing at Amp-gauge?
Sockets for lamps are made by myself. A central groundig point is available to avoid contact problems by corrision. All gauges work well, except Amp-Gauge.
Thanks a lot in advance. See attched pic of the instrumental block .
my original Amperemeter of the center column does not work.... I'm not sure if a shunt has to be attached like it is for the fuel gauge.
When removing it from the frame and attach it to a laboratory power supply (not permant, only appyling power for a wink of an eye, the needle moves a little.
So I think the gauge itself is not the root cause. There is no movement of the needle, neither while cranking nor high engine rpms.
Can someone provide a procedure for troubleshooting this problem?
The battery is being charged during normal operation. Means, the generator does its work.
Is there something missing at Amp-gauge?
Sockets for lamps are made by myself. A central groundig point is available to avoid contact problems by corrision. All gauges work well, except Amp-Gauge.
Thanks a lot in advance. See attched pic of the instrumental block . Is there something missing at Amp-gauge?
Sounds like yours is working, somewhat. For mine when I bought it, no movement of the needle at all. I found two issues on mine: 1-Fusible link at starter had I assumed blown, so previous owner removed it and put a wire nut it on the remaining wire🤨. 2-Gauge still did not work so I removed the gauge and found the resistor wire broken. So I soldered it together and now it works as designed. Hope this helps.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Apply 12 volts to the top terminal and attach a ground to the other terminal, the meter will deflect then reverse the wires and see if the meter deflects the other way, if YES then the meter is good.
Or you can test with a 9 volt battery.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
On my 1968 car there are two smaller fusible links that are used to generate a small current thru the meter between two points in the main current flow path between the horn relay and the starter. There normally is just enough of a small voltage drop (and resulting current flow) there to defect the meter. Also continue to be careful with putting any voltage across the meter as it is using very fine small gage wire.
Here are those two links locations on my car.:
3. Horn Relay B+ Terminal, 20 Gauge Orange. Comes off the horn relay and is in series with the Battery amp meter and item 4 fusible link. Located at the horn relay using a lug to the hot B+ terminal. Connected to a 16 gauge wire.
4. Firewall Harness, 20 Gauge Orange. The other fusible link in series with the Battery amp meter and item 3. Located near the wiper motor relay slightly to the driver’s side on the engine side main firewall harness. Connected to a 16 gauge wire.
Question about Ampere meter
