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I don't know if the currently installed switches are right, or if a previous owner modified the Alarm-circuit.
Trying to get the AntiTheftAlarm back to work, I got stuck with selecting the proper switches.
This switch is currently installed on my 1973 C3
ZIP-Corvette says:
For a 73 it should look like ES-340, but my switch looks like ES-326, which is for a 74-76
Is ES-326 the right one for my ride?
Another question about connecting the switch:
According to the schematic, this switch has three cables. But there are only two connectors at the switch.
As far as I understand, the blue one is connected to the Dash Ajar Warnlamp, the Black/White goes to the flasher relay.
Where does the third wire go ?
Willcox has schematic for a 1975. The switch has 2 connectors.
The schematic taken from the service manual shows the switch with 3 connectors:
This is not a subject I have an experience on, but the switch on your car doesn't look like any of the one in the Zips picture. The plunger is too skinny compared to the catalog examples. Could it be that the switch was changed in the past or that the wiring was also changed, or at least adapted to spade-style connectors (vs the pin-style)? The third wire has me confused also as all the switches look like two wire only.
This is not a subject I have an experience on, but the switch on your car doesn't look like any of the one in the Zips picture. The plunger is too skinny compared to the catalog examples. Could it be that the switch was changed in the past or that the wiring was also changed, or at least adapted to spade-style connectors (vs the pin-style)? The third wire has me confused also as all the switches look like two wire only.
Hi Farm_Kid,
yes it looks quite cumbersome.... Since there are a lot of "mods" by previous owners, I think they made some changes to the electric components. Looks like i have to make it work in an "inofficial" way .
Anyway, thanks a lot for your quick reply!
You have a '73, right?
First of all, have you removed the access panel in the wheel well to see if there are any other wires coming to the switch?
Second, I'd get a couple of these NOS switches from Doc Rebuild; also pick up a set of his OoSoEz wiring diagrams - these things are fantastic because they not only show the schematic but what connectors each wire uses.
There are no additional wires behind the panel. See pic in my original post.
Similar to your suggestion, i ordered already this switch. It's looks the same like your pic.
Fortunately, this switches are in stock and will be shipped this week.
I will check if they fit in mechanically.
Electronic circuit need to be checked and modified accordingly.
Today I received new AJAR-switches. Compared to the installed (broken) ones, the plunger does not move in far enough.
But what I can see, the bumper glued at the door, was not aligned properly. So the old switch was heavily pushed in. Maybe that's why he was destroyed over time.
But probably, somebody before had already modified the alarm-circuit not too professional.... Will rebuild it again to meet the new switches.
This is (or better: was) my alarm horn. Looks awfull after 52 years :-)
The switches are self-adjusting. The projecting metal tube that the plunger slides in will get pushed in to the switch body when the door is closed. That sets the projection of the plunger to the proper depth.
Door Ajar Switch
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