Hi Greg,
I do chevy 12 bolts and Pontiac 10's as well, but I have a fair backlog of vette work now to keep me busy.

 

I'm curious about the availability of the Toms real Axels. I have no idea who was producing them and its none of my business. But will they continue to be produced? I'm referring to the Standard Bearing Replacements. I didn't like the 1/2" Axel Studs and I used Conversion Studs to get them back to 7/16. But other than that, they were great. Will they live on?

 

I have Tom's corvette inventory. The outer 17' & 31's have the dual pattern for 7/16 or 1/2 studs, so you don't have to use conversion studs. They will live on.

 

But if you use the 7/16 there is no way to adjust the parking brakes. I used the 7/16 for Rivets and then used the conversion studs. Riveted like factory and adjustable parking brakes. I should also say that I am machining the Rotor after its Riveted.

 

The parking brake adjusting holes are not covered up using either 7/16 or 1/2 studs, but the remaining hole pattern would be too large for riveting or bolting on as I have done.
Depending on your application and build type, if you want to rivet rotors and turn like gm did or Bair's does, then you use the stock axle. If the concern is rotor runout vs originality, then riveting, tapping, or as most rebuilders do- nothing to hold the rotors on. I have dialed in new and used rotors to under 003" both bolting on or using the lug nuts only method. Both will keep the runout in place. Turning as an assembly will not have any runout as GM did. I tested a long time ago, turning rotors on an axle with the rotor bolted on. I like the fact you can remove the rotor without issue if needed. I turned the assembly, checked it, no runout, unbolted it and removed the rotor. Bolted it back on and torqued the flatheads, rechecked the runout and had 0015-002" still pretty good but not -0- as turned. I checked runout torquing the wheel studs using a plate I made and found runout did change, a little. That simulated torquing a wheel on. So, if the runout from the start is over 003" it may open more once the wheels are retorqued. While 005 is often referred to as max runout, I stick with 003" or under.

 

I matched a set of Tom's 17's to new rotors today. These are using stock 7/16x 20 wheel studs. I fit flatheads to the 1/2 hole pattern. Bolting them on is not a requirement but has been one of my standard details for decades, so I kept these the same.
NOTE, I am just showing the axle can be bolted to the rotors if wanted as I explained earlier.

 

Gary. Gtr1999 I’m looking for axle seals form Tom’s differential TTO F4204 outer rear axle seals. I’m not sure how else to contact you. Site will not let me message you yet. Thanks

 

What axles do you have now?

 

31 spline 1350 racing axles with 1/2 bolts part#KA10V-0DAK

 

KA10V-ODAK are a forged 1541, 31 spline with 1350 flanges, the best outer vette axle made. The only one better are the 1480. Lucky you have the real deal and not the knockoffs sold the past few years.
I can't post part numbers or give you a quote here since I am not a vendor per say.

 

Well this site will not let me message you a because I am new, I did send you a friend request. You can Send me a message at Rick.kohn1@yahoo.com and we will figure it out.
Thanks

 

Big loss to our community. Carry it on Gary. Thanks for letting us know.

 

Contact him directly at gtrvette1999@gmail.com