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so i need to replace my passenger side rear wheel bearing and upon looking at the tools needed and different vendors offing same tools just different prices, my question is has anyone one had a problem with different vendors tooling as long as it’s made in usa?
so i need to replace my passenger side rear wheel bearing and upon looking at the tools needed and different vendors offing same tools just different prices, my question is has anyone one had a problem with different vendors tooling as long as it’s made in usa?
Yeah, honestly as long as the tools are decent quality and actually made in the U.S., you’re usually fine. The big difference is just how well they’re machined – the cheaper ones can feel a little rough, but they still get the job done if it’s a one-time project. That rear wheel bearing job is kind of a pain though, so the last thing you want is a tool slipping or not fitting right. If you see yourself messing with these more than once, I’d spend the extra and not think twice.
The rear bearings are common tapered bearings. Nothing special about them. Setting them up correctly is the concern. One shot to do it right. I do not recommend reusing bearings pulled off an axle.
The setup tools vary in quality, you can use an old axle if you have one but they're not the best option, just cost less. You need a good dial indicator, one that doesn't stick or drag. The do wear out. After many years one of my Starrett's is shot.
Now, how you set them up is the key. The spec of 001-008" might as well be a mile wide. I machine fit them for no lateral play and have my own procedure to do them. I own a corvette machine shop and have all the tools and machinery, plus I have been doing this for decades now. I don't say this to scare you from doing it, just to let you know you might get in deeper than expected. That will cost more time and a lot more money if it's not right from the start.
I just did these today. One has 001" rotor runout, the other is 0005", both machine fit for -0- lateral and not to a specific, common endplay.
Be sure about this before you start, if you have any doubts there are probably 100's of places that can do them, and they will probably all be different. From good to bad.
Good luck.
I'm sorry Gary. I understand you are the foremost authority on the topic.
But I was tought that timken bearing endplay specs were designed to compensate for the expansion of metals as they heat up. Those rear bearings are going to warm up going down the highway at speed.
Your method of disregarding the factory specifications could possibly have consequences. That bearing set-up at .0005 is definitely tighter than factory spec. And I am certain your intending to reduce brake rotor run out.
But what happens to the end play when those bearings heat up?
We use an identical bearing set-up on Harley's from 73-99. And oddly, we run a larger end play for rear wheels than front wheels. Because the rear wheel doing the work of driving the motorcycle forward in theory builds more heat.
So, that rear axle set up with almost zero end play?
I'm going to go with Gary on this. When it comes to tapered bearings I like a bit of pre load on them. Why? Because I feel letting the bearings bounce around does more harm than running them snug. In my 42 years as a mechanic I've never had a bearing failure. And as I like to quote "let the book come out here and fix it".
I'm sorry Gary. I understand you are the foremost authority on the topic.
But I was tought that timken bearing endplay specs were designed to compensate for the expansion of metals as they heat up. Those rear bearings are going to warm up going down the highway at speed.
Your method of disregarding the factory specifications could possibly have consequences. That bearing set-up at .0005 is definitely tighter than factory spec. And I am certain your intending to reduce brake rotor run out.
But what happens to the end play when those bearings heat up?
We use an identical bearing set-up on Harley's from 73-99. And oddly, we run a larger end play for rear wheels than front wheels. Because the rear wheel doing the work of driving the motorcycle forward in theory builds more heat.
So, that rear axle set up with almost zero end play?
Look at the picture again- 0005RO= rotor runout. 001 EP= endplay. The bearings still have endplay in them, they don't have lateral play in them. These rotate smooth, not free-wheel, just glide and once on the car will seat a little more. Going to the first spec, say 002", and leaving it there will have lateral play. Once the arm is assembled that will be felt at the rotor at 3&9. I don't like that play so once I dial them in it is gone, yet the end play is still there. Been doing them like this for years. Now with 31's I do set them with a slight preload, never a problem.
great info! so i bought new fully assembled arms last year and have about 5k on them which i’m surprised that one is already gone. my symptoms are road noise, unsteady going over bumps in the rear so when i grab the wheel at 12&6 i have up and down movement which is normal to an extent but the half shaft and the trailing arm stays still and the spindle will move in the knuckle. i could call the vendor but i never registered them and its a bearing made from today’s steel.
i have to buy the specialty tools to do the job which i don’t mind because i’m sure the other side will go or i’ll be doing the job again somewhere down the road but on duntov website i can get a loaded knuckle for about the same price of the tooling. i would still have to do rotor runout but would hope that there end play would be set right?
I had Van Steel rebuild the trailing arms which included the rear wheel bearings. They used to advertise their "Million Mile" Warranty on their trailing arms and wheel bearings. After discovering a bad wheel bearing I promptly removed both T/A's and sent them to Van Steel back in 1991. They have worked flawlessly ever since they were installed.
I could probably do the bearing setup myself but decided to let someone with prior experience resolve my problems with the rear wheel bearing. The extra cost of paying someone was well worth it as far as I was concerned. The parts were replaced and set up properly. Getting the T/A's off the car and back on was enough for this Corvette "newbie" back in 1991.
Paying Van Steel gives me confidence that I can drive the car safely with the new wheel bearings. Had I done them for the first time I would have wondered if I had done it 100% right. Better safe than sorry....
great info! so i bought new fully assembled arms last year and have about 5k on them which i’m surprised that one is already gone. my symptoms are road noise, unsteady going over bumps in the rear so when i grab the wheel at 12&6 i have up and down movement which is normal to an extent but the half shaft and the trailing arm stays still and the spindle will move in the knuckle. i could call the vendor but i never registered them and its a bearing made from today’s steel.
i have to buy the specialty tools to do the job which i don’t mind because i’m sure the other side will go or i’ll be doing the job again somewhere down the road but on duntov website i can get a loaded knuckle for about the same price of the tooling. i would still have to do rotor runout but would hope that there end play would be set right?
what’s everyone’s input?
Do your homework, right now you're shooting in the dark.
Do your homework, right now you're shooting in the dark.
so i’ve started with the normal quick diagnostics i haven’t really dug into too much because it still drives ok and don’t want downtime with it right now with being so close to the end of the season in north eastern CT that being said my kids wanna do a track day in early october at thompson speedway with there cars which are a gr 86&gr corolla so naturally dad wants to play too and this is why i need to fix what’s going on.
when i installed them i torque the flange bolts too 100lbs per spec. an never looked back. is it possible that it maybe as easy as re-torque the castle nut?.. i have the 80 manual and it doesn’t say anything about adjusting the rear bearings. when i call VS tomorrow i’ll see what they say.
and as far as it maybe another part in the rear? everything is brand new
If these are only 1 year old they should cover it under warranty. Sadly, if they exchange it for another assembly it'll likely be the same low quality. I have rebuilt plenty of these and people are happy with what they get from me.
Wow you are something.
The guy asks for help and you come self-promoting your business.
You rebuilt plenty of these? What about all the comebacks you had over the past year. Remember I know more than the average guy and see all your posts on FB, both the decent ones and the arrogant and even ignorant ones.
Don't you think the man should at least contact the place that did the work to allow them to make it right, or should he just ship them to you?
so i’ve started with the normal quick diagnostics i haven’t really dug into too much because it still drives ok and don’t want downtime with it right now with being so close to the end of the season in north eastern CT that being said my kids wanna do a track day in early october at thompson speedway with there cars which are a gr 86&gr corolla so naturally dad wants to play too and this is why i need to fix what’s going on.
when i installed them i torque the flange bolts too 100lbs per spec. an never looked back. is it possible that it maybe as easy as re-torque the castle nut?.. i have the 80 manual and it doesn’t say anything about adjusting the rear bearings. when i call VS tomorrow i’ll see what they say.
and as far as it maybe another part in the rear? everything is brand new
If you have concerns about rear bearings, do not track the car until you know what the issue is. Thompson is 2 hours away from me. It's a nice area but not one I would trust a car with questionable bearings on, not even the street. If you would like honest answers, no sales pitch, no solicitation, let me know. I would be happy to give you some pointers. Looks like a fair amount of work done on that Dana IRS already.
i didn’t want to say the vendor but there V.S offset ones i got from ecklers. i’ll call them on Monday and see what they say.
as I posted before, at 1 year they should cover it. Unfortunately many out there who do not care after the sale, hopefully they make it right.
If they leave you hanging and you want to tackle it yourself one of the tools you need is a setup tool, an old axle (spimdle) that was polished to slip fit bearings works great.
yes i’ve done a lot of work to this car. the rear end is rebuilt with 3:54 new yokes this past winter, hiem joints rod ends, new joints in the half shafts the the TA’s were the fully assembled brand new last summer. VS 360 spring and have new double adjustable shocks waiting to put them on until i swap the front over to tubular upper a lower CA w/coilover.
not tracking the car until this issue is solved again i was planning on running it on cruises nothing long distance until i put her away but the kid side of me wants to play around.
im about 20 minutes from the speedway and this whole area is great for cruising
yes i’ve done a lot of work to this car. the rear end is rebuilt with 3:54 new yokes this past winter, hiem joints rod ends, new joints in the half shafts the the TA’s were the fully assembled brand new last summer. VS 360 spring and have new double adjustable shocks waiting to put them on until i swap the front over to tubular upper a lower CA w/coilover.
not tracking the car until this issue is solved again i was planning on running it on cruises nothing long distance until i put her away but the kid side of me wants to play around.
im about 20 minutes from the speedway and this whole area is great for cruising
How are the swap meets at Thompson now. I haven't been up there to one since my son went to URI.
there still big, three days long. my wife and i have been going for the last five years and some good stuff mostly the same people selling the same stuff. lol but it’s nice to look at junk.
That should be coming up again in Oct right? Maybe I will take a ride up, probably won't setup a table but who knows. Let me know how you make out the bearing and if you have any questions.
11/7–11/9. we go friday morning when everyone is setting up. get good deals.
will do on the bearing and advice. i’ve owned the car for 3yrs now and have rebuilt the front twice due to lack of knowledge and stubbornness by now it’s pretty much a new 80 vette
rear wheel bearing
