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1981 Corvette - 350 and th350 combo
Just got the car running after 4 years of sitting. Unfortunately not driving. It seems I have no drive gears. I have park and neutral and 4 more neutrals counting reverse. It has the correct amount of fluid in it typically that’s the cause of these situations unfortunately not this time. Now when I first had it started and idling to get warmed up to check the fluid levels it split a hose open and while I had that hose off I had a helper watch and see if fluid was coming out as I crank the engine and it did. So the pump is working? Not sure how well of an indicator that is.
Are you sure the linkage is connected correctly to the trans and is moving as it should?
my other thought is since you have no reverse or drive, that you have insufficient line pressure
Are you sure the linkage is connected correctly to the trans and is moving as it should?
my other thought is since you have no reverse or drive, that you have insufficient line pressure
I would believe so, since it shifts from park to neutral for it to move. But double checking anyway since it would be real nice if was something simple like that. Will be pulling the trans out today for a better inspection.
Swap it for a 4L60e! Then you can have 6 neutrals (including reverse).
I recently sold a running TH-350 for peanuts on Facebook. You might be able to find a replacement to get back on the road quickly, and then decide to rebuild your old one, or not.
Have you considered adding a clutch pedal, while the transmission is out anyway?
Swap it for a 4L60e! Then you can have 6 neutrals (including reverse).
I recently sold a running TH-350 for peanuts on Facebook. You might be able to find a replacement to get back on the road quickly, and then decide to rebuild your old one, or not.
Have you considered adding a clutch pedal, while the transmission is out anyway?
I have been eyeing the 5 or 6 speed conversion kit by American Powertrain. But fiancée would probably kill me if I spent that much money on the car before a wedding. I’ve almost got the trans out of the car maybe it’s just the pump and can replace that and then get back on the road relatively quick, assuming I can replace just the pump?
I have been eyeing the 5 or 6 speed conversion kit by American Powertrain. But fiancée would probably kill me if I spent that much money on the car before a wedding. I’ve almost got the trans out of the car maybe it’s just the pump and can replace that and then get back on the road relatively quick, assuming I can replace just the pump?
You should put a TKX swap on your bridal registry.
Check Silver Sport Transmission, too, shiftsst.com
It has never occurred to me to try to fix an automatic transmission, but I'm sure it's possible!
Found a good 200r4 transmission for a good price hopefully in the condition he says it’s in. Gonna swap it in as soon as I can get the rest of the pieces required for the swap. Any downsides to the 200r4 I should look forward to?
As far as downsides, depends on if you’re running the stockish 200hp v8 that most of these cars came with or if you got some hp mods. Stock 200r4s are not the stoutest transmissions. I’m sure it’s fine for cruising and normal driving but if you do any drag racing I’d stick with a th350/th400. Or get the 200r4 rebuilt with better internals, but it sounds like you want to avoid a rebuild.
not great to have material in the pan, but it’s not a ton of it. I’ve cleaned out worst pans. I’m surprised that would do it in, unless the trans was on its last legs to start with. Did you take a look at the valve body? Just curious.
As far as downsides, depends on if you’re running the stockish 200hp v8 that most of these cars came with or if you got some hp mods. Stock 200r4s are not the stoutest transmissions. I’m sure it’s fine for cruising and normal driving but if you do any drag racing I’d stick with a th350/th400. Or get the 200r4 rebuilt with better internals, but it sounds like you want to avoid a rebuild.
not great to have material in the pan, but it’s not a ton of it. I’ve cleaned out worst pans. I’m surprised that would do it in, unless the trans was on its last legs to start with. Did you take a look at the valve body? Just curious.
Yeah it’s currently pretty much a stock 350 aside from intake manifold, and headers I doubt they would add too much power for it to handle. I didn’t do any other tear down aside from dropping the pan since I don’t know anything about transmission. Was looking at rebuild kits and was gonna use my th350 as a learning experience, but then saw the 200r4 pop up and jumped on it.
While I do the transmission swap does it make sense to replace the old hard tubing transmission lines with some braided ptfe AN lines that I have left over from doing the fuel lines? And can I use the existing trans cooler or should I just replace that as well?
While I do the transmission swap does it make sense to replace the old hard tubing transmission lines with some braided ptfe AN lines that I have left over from doing the fuel lines? And can I use the existing trans cooler or should I just replace that as well?
definitely a lot easier to plumb than trying to bend hard lines.
I’m assuming you’re referring to an external trans cooler? Hard to say, I’d probably tip and see what the fluid looks like that comes out. If it’s gritty and not great, idk something to consider. A new cooler is like $80.
While I do the transmission swap does it make sense to replace the old hard tubing transmission lines with some braided ptfe AN lines that I have left over from doing the fuel lines? And can I use the existing trans cooler or should I just replace that as well?
Do you have a transmission cooler, separate from the radiator?
If you are committed to that 200R, I'd try to get back on the road quickly and cheaply. Did you disturb the stock cooler lines that should be going into your radiator?
Don't spend money on new transmission cooler lines unless you have to. You won't need them when you swap to a manual transmission (perhaps as an anniversary gift).
Do you have a transmission cooler, separate from the radiator?
If you are committed to that 200R, I'd try to get back on the road quickly and cheaply. Did you disturb the stock cooler lines that should be going into your radiator?
Don't spend money on new transmission cooler lines unless you have to. You won't need them when you swap to a manual transmission (perhaps as an anniversary gift).
correct it already had a standalone cooler. But I still have my stock lines, but also just had some leftover ptfe lines and fittings from redoing my fuel system for EFI, so was just potentially trying to make things easier in the future. And gifts like those are things we hope for in the future.
Do you need to shorten the driveshaft? (I don't know myself, perhaps you've researched that).
200r4 is supposed to be a direct fit aside from crossmember. They say it’s tight but driveshaft is reusable. That’s one of the differences between that and doing the more available 700r4.
Hello again, quick question pertaining to the actual shifter and shifter boot. So in my assembling of the console to put in the new detent plate and gear indicator the old original shift boot I had starting showing its age. Now looking around I can just get the regular old leather boot but I was curious if anyone makes the plastic plates rather than the boots for the ‘81 like the 72-76 have?
Ethan_Hensley
I use a regular manual boot on my Manual console plate for my 200-4R.
Before you mess around with tranny lines wait till you get the 200-4R....they might just work.
IF you are buying a crossmember I hope you bought one that lets the exhaust pass-UNDER----- as long you're getting a crossmember...... if you did not, then I would suggest that you get one...it will be well worth it.
New trans is in and the old girl is moving under her own power for the first time in 4years however I seemed to have overlooked a very important part. The lockup for the converter. Now the trans is from an 86 cutlass and looks like it have the original 4 wire port on the side, after a little research I think I understand but I’m also confused. So can I just take the connector and wire it to 12V, a vacuum switch for the switched 12v and a ground? Or there is a pressure switch option but that seems to always be in lockup in 4th with no way to get out of aside downshifting. Which is better, any tips or corrections are welcome! Would prefer not to burn up the transmission on the first drive.
Transmission trouble
however I seemed to have overlooked a very important part. The lockup for the converter. Now the trans is from an 86 cutlass and looks like it have the original 4 wire port on the side, after a little research I think I understand but I’m also confused. So can I just take the connector and wire it to 12V, a vacuum switch for the switched 12v and a ground? Or there is a pressure switch option but that seems to always be in lockup in 4th with no way to get out of aside downshifting. Which is better, any tips or corrections are welcome! Would prefer not to burn up the transmission on the first drive.