This product sounds like a big improvement from stock. Has anyone tried it? How long did it "Really" take to install? Ared you satisfied w/results? Would you do anything differnt? When a mag does an article they usually have a pro who has done it many times before. This has nothing to do w/someone doing the job for the first time. Any comments? TIA

 

Hit the search funtion, plenty of posts on it. Have heard nothing but good reviews on the upgrade.

 

Less than 2 hours to install, the hardest part is removing the stock vacuum assist booster. If you've never removed it before, it's a PITA because the upper bolts are difficult to reach with the dash in place. Removing the drivers seat is a huge help unless your into masochism or you're a contortionist.

You should be able to swap it without disconnecting the brake lines from the M/C, so bleeding the brakes are not required.

I just drove mine for the first time with the Hydraboost installed this past weekend, very firm brakes compared to the vacuum assist. If you're running a cam with a good amount of duration and overlap, the Hydraboost will definitely benefit you.

The kit is very complete using the proper Aeroguip TFE hoses, fittings, and billet aluminum hose seperators.

 

Monty How's the beast running? You also installed the Steeroids system. I plan to do both, when I become unlazy. How does the two systems function together? Any issues?

 

the question i have is "how firm is the brake pedal" and is there the same amount of travel?....my brother have a 78 chevy pickup that the previous owner took the brake system out of a 80 diesel truck and the pedal travel is almost non-existant and it is VERY firm...it stops well.......but a bit hard to explian..its just a bit uncomfortable to drive ...it may be that the pedal is much higher than stock....is the adjustment for pedal height?

 

The only issue with running the Hydraboost and Steeroids together is that the hoses supplied with the Hydraboost are sized (length) to connect to the stock pump and steering system. When you order the Hydraboost, tell Paul that you are also using the Steeroids system, he can lengthen the hoses for you, or you can just buy some TFE hose yourself and make your own custom length hoses.

The only other issue I had, and it's not a problem really, is that the second return line from the Hydraboost unit is tapped for a 5/16-24 fitting. This is a relatively unusual size, and if you intend to plumb it all with AN line and fittings, an off the shelf AN adapter is not readily available(at least in the Aeroquip/Earl's/XRP catalogs). You can either make your own fitting or retap the hole to 1/8" NPT. The fitting supplied is a brass nipple adapter along with a length of Aeroquip hose and clamp on fitting. This is a perfectly appropriate setup because there is very little pressure on the line and the fluid volume is very small. As long as there is no backpressure on it, either way will work. I tapped into a fitting on the intake side of the p/s pump and connected to that so there is always suction on that line.

Paul at Hydratech recommended running the Hydraboost off of the pump and then to the Steeroids rack, then to the reservoir. If you run a p/s fluid cooler, that is located between the reservoir and the pump.

 

There is adjustment for pedal height. You will reuse the stock brake pedal clevis from the orignal brake booster and use it on the Hydraboost rod. Depending on how far you thread the clevis onto the Hydraboost rod will give you some adjustment for pedal height. If I remember correctly, the instuctions suggest a starting point of about 6 turns of thread engagement. I followed that and the pedal height feels the same as stock.

Pedal travel feels about the same as stock, it's jsut tht the pedal feels a little firmer. It's not overly stiff, or overly senstive where the slightest brake pedal pressure locks up the wheels or anything. It just feels firmer and more "confidence inspiring".

 

thanks for the info!!

 

sweet.... i was wondering about how it would work with a steeroids, as I'd like to do both those mods someday. Great info, thanks Monty !!

:cheers:

 

To avoid the pedal problem I measure the clevis hole c/l distance from the rear of the booster I removed . When I installed the H/B I made sure to adjust the rod length the same distance . It all worked out fine good pedal position and as Monty mentioned great pedal feel !

geo :)

 

My pace car is in the middle of a major upgrade. I have not run my car yet but I agree with Monty, if you are running a strong cam that develops very little vacuum, you need the HydroBoost system. I also agree with him that removing the top two bolts on the original vacuum booster are the hardest things to do on the job. They may be the hardest two bolts to remove on the car. I took the steering column out to facilitate their removal. I also have to say that Paul is great to work with and is very knowledgeable on high performance cars.

 

Try using a 1/4 drive air ratchet with two long extensions and universal joint. Wrap the u/joint with a piece of masking tape as it helps with positioning the socket over the nuts . I t really works well to remove these pesky bolts !

geo

 

Glad you like it Monty, I'm still few months away from testing mine. :cheers:

 

Tip to make installation alot easier. If you buy the unit from the wreckers it comes with 4 studs pressed into the mounting plate.Remove these 4 studs and you will find they are a perfect press fit for the firewall. Start them from under the dash and use a larger nut and the proper nut and pull them into the firewall. The existing holes are the perfect size for this.
You now have 4 studs sticking into the engine compartment and in future you just slide the plate for the hydraboost over the studs and effortlessly tighten them up.
Sliding 4 studs into holes under the dash beats trying to start 4 nuts then using a wrench to tighten them every time. :) :)
It is a good tip. USE IT.

 

I agree, I have mine mocked up on the firewall (which is off the body) and having the studs in the firewall makes it so much easier.

Marck

 

Due to popular demand we now custom make a -6 adapter for the return line - available for $25 + S & H :cool:

As far as making the studs come through in the opposite direction - yes, that does work, but unless you plan on pulling the unit on a regular basis, why bother? Bolt it in (the regular / better looking way) and be done!? The hydraulic assist units are so reliable that you will probably never have to yank the unit again!

 

Hi Monty, I'm real dense on this and I don't want to screw it up. Can you please fax me a diagram of how to plumb the hydro and steeroids?
512-652-2224
Thanks very much.

 

Here's the deal on line connections: :confused:

*Remove the existing high side ps line (have a catch pan ready for the fluid)
*Connect a high pressure line from the ps pump output to the fitting closest to the assist unit accumulator bottle (inlet port) (fluid just flows through the unit when not braking)
*Connect a second high pressure line, from the other pressure fitting on the other side of the unit, route it down to the steering pressure input (where the other end of the original ps line connected into)
*The last line to hook up is a low pressure fluid return line, (from the assist unit hose regular nipple to the ps pump reservoir) most people simply cut the existing ps return hose near the pump and install a brass "T". The fancy way to do it is to modify the ps pump reservoir for one additional return line fitting.

Watch out for fluid flow restrictions on the return line - if back pressure is high enough due to a kinked hose or? the assist unit will actually self apply the brakes the minute you start the engine! Customers running restrictive coolers in the systems have driven me nuts in the past! :nono:

All of our systems come fully assembled, ready to bolt in - direct fit Aeroquip high pressure lineset and all required adapters. All you supply is the ps fluid and ibuprofen for your back(according to Bob Wallace from Vette Magazine)! :flag

Remember guys - CF members enjoy a 10% discount - call in your order with a verifiable CF screen name to receive your discount!

 

Paul,

You mentioned you now make a -06 adapter for the low pressure return line. I used a -04 hose for the low pressure line, do you think that will be a problem? I've only put a few miles on it, but I haven't noticed any issueswith using the smaller line...

 

Hi Monty - I'm happy to hear that you have had a chance to get your little monster out on the road! Crazy little beast monster that it is! :smash:

The AN -4 sizing is fine as there is actually very little volume that flows through this line. About the only time any real flow actually occurs is when you let off the brake, it then "exhausts" about one tablespoon of fluid that simply needs to get back to the reservoir. If there was a case of genuine restriction in that return circuit, it would manifest itself as a super lazy pedal return condition due to the fluid having a hard time exhausting back to the reservoir. The only reason we have chosen to make a -6 adapter is due to popular demand. The fact that the -6 hose ID is comparable to regular 3/8 hose is ultimately why people are requesting that sizing.