When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Afternoon All,
Looking for some recommendations. My son is finishing up an LS swap in his ‘81. He installed a Holley Terminator Max X and is looking for a reputable tuner. The car is currently in the South Florida (West Palm/Broward County) area. He just needs to put a base tune on it right now. Thanks for the help.
Have a great day.
The Terminator X Max has base tunes built in when you run the setup wizard. Use the handheld screen and follow the setup steps and you should be good to go. After that, there is a closed loop learning function that makes adjustments as you drive, so the tune gets better.
Afternoon All,
Looking for some recommendations. My son is finishing up an LS swap in his ‘81. He installed a Holley Terminator Max X and is looking for a reputable tuner. The car is currently in the South Florida (West Palm/Broward County) area. He just needs to put a base tune on it right now. Thanks for the help.
Have a great day.
The Terminator X Max has base tunes built in when you run the setup wizard. Use the handheld screen and follow the setup steps and you should be good to go. After that, there is a closed loop learning function that makes adjustments as you drive, so the tune gets better.
Yes....find or make a basemap....the closest one for your setup.....load it and then it will tune itself....
The Terminator X Max has base tunes built in when you run the setup wizard. Use the handheld screen and follow the setup steps and you should be good to go. After that, there is a closed loop learning function that makes adjustments as you drive, so the tune gets better.
Thanks for the info. Sorry for the delayed response. My son is in the Navy and is currently out on deployment, so our correspondence is sporadic. Here is the problem as he described it to me and why he is looking for a tuning pro:
"Car was initially idling very high (around 2000 RPM) and very rich (around 10-11). My engine guy said that was about where he wanted it running (RPM, not AFR) for 20 min for break-in, so I did not adjust anything. Once the 20 min was over, and I got the engine to operating temperature I was able to adjust the TB/IAC per Holley's instructions and set a target idle of 1000 RPM. Once the Holley went closed loop learning at 160 deg on the CTS it began to learn and trimmed the idle fuel to around 50% VE that it originally has "planned" in the set up. I also had to adjust the idle spark to a target of around 22 deg. With that combo I got it to settle on the target AFR of around 13.5 and stopped touching it. When I first drove it around the block, it felt fine, but kept shutting down when I came off the throttle. I messed with the IAC values and got it to a point where I could make it around the block without it stalling. Then I added the muffler inserts, and then when I drove it to the alignment shop, I seemed to be going lean on the throttle off, making pops and bangs out the exhaust. It was 2.6 miles to the aligment shop and I got there and shut it down. Idle RPM and very little throttle, I was able to move it in and out of the bay, but was not comfortable driving it home."
Thanks for the info. Sorry for the delayed response. My son is in the Navy and is currently out on deployment, so our correspondence is sporadic. Here is the problem as he described it to me and why he is looking for a tuning pro:
"Car was initially idling very high (around 2000 RPM) and very rich (around 10-11). My engine guy said that was about where he wanted it running (RPM, not AFR) for 20 min for break-in, so I did not adjust anything. Once the 20 min was over, and I got the engine to operating temperature I was able to adjust the TB/IAC per Holley's instructions and set a target idle of 1000 RPM. Once the Holley went closed loop learning at 160 deg on the CTS it began to learn and trimmed the idle fuel to around 50% VE that it originally has "planned" in the set up. I also had to adjust the idle spark to a target of around 22 deg. With that combo I got it to settle on the target AFR of around 13.5 and stopped touching it. When I first drove it around the block, it felt fine, but kept shutting down when I came off the throttle. I messed with the IAC values and got it to a point where I could make it around the block without it stalling. Then I added the muffler inserts, and then when I drove it to the alignment shop, I seemed to be going lean on the throttle off, making pops and bangs out the exhaust. It was 2.6 miles to the aligment shop and I got there and shut it down. Idle RPM and very little throttle, I was able to move it in and out of the bay, but was not comfortable driving it home."
Any thoughts?
I would run the initial setup wizard again now that you don't have to worry about cam break in. Pay particular attention to the type of sensor you select when asked for Holley or GM. Some new sensors might have come with the Holley kit. I have an LT1 with drive-by-wire so I don't know what the LS kit contains.
If you still have idle problems, try these settings in the idle control menu. Ignore the DBW variables. I got these settings from a
I would run the initial setup wizard again now that you don't have to worry about cam break in. Pay particular attention to the type of sensor you select when asked for Holley or GM. Some new sensors might have come with the Holley kit. I have an LT1 with drive-by-wire so I don't know what the LS kit contains.
If you still have idle problems, try these settings in the idle control menu. Ignore the DBW variables. I got these settings from a
Thanks for the info. He was wondering what specific sensor you are referring to here? He said he is fairly certain that he got them all right. The only Holley sensor he has (that he can recall off hand) is the fuel PX sensor and wide band O2 that came in the kit.
When he ran the Wizard using the recommended settings for the cam he has (there were three selections to choose from) the car ran way, way too rich. Even more than when he messed with the fuel table.
Sorry for all the questions. He really likes learning and doing these things for himself and would rather fix it on his own rather than call somebody else in to do it for him.
Thanks for the info. He was wondering what specific sensor you are referring to here? He said he is fairly certain that he got them all right. The only Holley sensor he has (that he can recall off hand) is the fuel PX sensor and wide band O2 that came in the kit.
When he ran the Wizard using the recommended settings for the cam he has (there were three selections to choose from) the car ran way, way too rich. Even more than when he messed with the fuel table.
Sorry for all the questions. He really likes learning and doing these things for himself and would rather fix it on his own rather than call somebody else in to do it for him.
My kit needed to install a intake air temp sensor, and a Holley MAP sensor. It eliminates the stock MAF. Your kit is different, so it is probably OK. I would still rerun the wizard to clear any false learning and start the process fresh. Make absolutely sure the exhaust system is free of leaks that will throw off the O2 sensor.
Go to YouTube University. There are many videos that cover tuning of the Terminator X.
I second (or is it third?) the suggestion to re-do the wizard to see how it runs. Unless you have some wierd engine issue, you should be able get the car to run pretty decent without specific “tuning”. Should be able to get through the learn process. Then seek out a tuner to transfer the learn files and smooth out any areas that need it.
I see a lot of people get into the menus and start changing things and it often leads to a poor running engine.
Also seeing a lot of bad senders/sensors out of the box. CTS sensors are a crap shoot any more.
Tuner needed - LS Swap
