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The 72 C3 trailing arms will not give up either bolt that goes through the frame. The frame is off the car so I have plenty of room to work.
So far here’s what has been attempted:
1) Heat from an induction coil - nothing
2) Krol Oil - lots of it over several weeks - both bolts will rotate
3) Mapp gas - lots - no back and forth movement of bolts
4) Air chisel impact gun - no effect
** Both bolts will rotate but will not move/slide out.
Suggestions?
If you tried all of that, the only thing left to do is load a sawzall with a carbide blade and cut the bolt(s) out. It is much easier if the shims are out. Use a decent cutting oil to keep things cool. Those bolts are grade 8, so take your time. I bought a few blades because they can break. Good luck. Jerry
Interesting the bolt rotates but you can't drive it out.
I had some there were so rust seized they wouldn't move at all. Cutting them out is the way to go. Usually, a Sawzall is all you need; I have burned them out but that is messy and could be risky.
The bolt might be seized to the sleeve and the sleeve is moving with the bolt. There is just the bolt that goes through the steel sleeve. The sleeve is flared on both ends.
Gary got it right. The bushing is shot and the bolt is seized to the sleeve. Remove the shims and cut the bolt inside the pocket on both sides with a sawsall. You can then drive the bushings out and rebuild the arms.
The metal cup the bushings are in is hardened. The outer washer is soft, keep off the hardened flange or you will rip the blade teeth out or dull them.
Use a good blade. There is a member here who sells Lenox blades Leigh IIRC. I could not find his blades locally and had success with a Diablo. Others were useless.
No need for the carbide blades. They are getting returned.
Once the trailing arm spacers were removed I was able to cut off the bolts (cut-off blade on a hand held grinder) from the outside. The trailing arm wiggled out.
I didn’t realize the spacers were causing the problems.