I’m in the process of converting from an automatic transmission to a manual transmission.
I just installed the brake/clutch pedal box assembly and setting up the clutch linkage.
At the same time I’m also upgrading from the oem clutch rods to the Speed Direct spherical linkage.

After reading several older threads I did the changes to the installation of the lower clutch rod and now I’m installing the upper rod.
I installed the oem style upper rod between the clutch pedal and the z bar to obtain the proper length and adjusted the linkage.
I set the length of the Speed Direct and installed it to the pedal and through the firewall.

I noticed that when I had the rod attached to the pedal and the rod was centered in the hole in the firewall, there was approximately 1/2” space between the rod end and the side of the z bar.
I could just move the rod end over and bolt it to the z bar pursuant to the instructions, but my OCD is telling me to add a 1/2” spacer to keep the upper clutch rod in a perfect straight alignment with the pedal and centered in the firewall hole.

Am I once again over thinking this or should I follow what my OCD is screaming at me to do and add the spacer???

I wasn’t able to find any pictures posted in the old threads because they all focus on the changes in the lower rods.

For you guys who have installed the Speed Direct linkage kits, did you just bolt the rod end directly to the z bar or did you add a spacer?

Thanks,
Greg

 

Another quick question:
Is there a bracket or some other component that the clutch pedal return spring attaches to?
The one end attaches to the hole in the z bar but what about the other end?

 

What a hard thing to get a photo of! Hope this helps. Directly below where the rod comes through the firewall.

 

Sorry, I was in a hurry there. After dinner took a couple more pictures. Down and to the right of the clutch pushrod. Here's a couple more.

sorry but the black thin strip coming up and almost touching the end of the spring loop is the tail of a zip tie that the factory obviously never clipped off.
This spring, the Z bar and clutch pedal assembly have never been removed from factory. I am certain that this is original.

 

For years I thought there was a missing bracket for the return spring and that the previous owner just bubba'd a hole for the spring end....I guess sometimes the easiest solution is the best

 

Here is a picture that I downloaded some time ago. My car is clean, but not as clean as this person's Vette.

 

Thanks for taking the time to help me out everyone!!!
I’ll have to check the plate under the steering column to make sure the hole is there before I bolt it to the firewall.
Now which box is that plate in???

 

I guess I'm late to this party but I would think you have a perfect setup without the spacer. The pushrod is centered in the hole in the firewall. Any spacer is going to move it out of the center position. Maybe it won't rub but are you able to determine its position in the hole if the pedal is full depressed?

As to the spring, I recall you had to make some mods so the hole for the spring might not have been included in whatever you did. I kinda don't think you are going to have a rattle issue with all your heim joints. If you can overcome the OCD factor I wouldn't worry. I drove for years with more rattle than that elsewhere,

What's most important is that any of these four connections never ever come loose. Happened to me once and I had to drive for a few miles without shifting the clutch for stop lights and such. A rather nerve racking and delicate operation to shift, and never ever come to a complete stop. Spring clips through the retaining bolts is what the racers do. A very good practice.

While I'm here, I noticed in one of your earlier pictures you had the clutch end pushrod completely snugged up. You will want to leave some adjustment room and back it off a bit. If I'm not being clear, I'll hunt down that picture but right now I am enjoying my coffee.

 

Hey Cliff,
Thanks for responding.
I know you were one of the key people involved in the earlier threads and helped solve the issues with the lower clutch fork rod.

If you look closely at my picture of the z bar you’ll notice there is a nut holding the bolt to the z bar, then a space, then the rod end.
The spacer would replace that nut and eliminate the open space to keep the clutch rod perfectly aligned with the clutch pedal and keep the rod centered in the firewall hole.
If I move the rod end directly against the z bar, pursuant to Speed Directs instructions, the rod gets pulled over to the side of the firewall hole.
The rod doesn't contact the firewall but it comes close.

If you look at the picture posted by Robertea there isn’t an issue with the oem set up because the pedal adjustment mechanism sets the clutch rod just about 1/2” away from the side surface of the z bar and keeps the rod centered in the hole through the firewall.

The spring attachment question I posted was concerning the clutch pedal return spring and not the anti rattle springs that are eliminated with the kit.

After sleeping on it, or not, I’ll probably add the spacer.

 

Sounds like you've got this Greg. My only critique is that you use drilled shank bolts in this critical retention area*. What you show for now is I assume just a mockup. A spacer gives you an exact solution for your bolt tength. You probably won't find these at your Ace hardware, so here's a source for lots of cool goodies:




_______________
* I was kind of amazed that the factory fastener spring clip lasted for maybe 40 years. The minuscule flexing each and every time the clutch was depressed eventually wore it out. Big surprise always when you push on a pedal and nothing happens. Especially brakes!

 

Thanks again!
I saw that you posted these in the older threads and visited their website.
Surprisingly they are still in business.
I did check Ace Hardware and they do not carry the drilled shank bolts anymore.
Once I get the upper rod set up and know the proper shanks and bolt lengths, I planned on ordering all the bolts I need for the lower and upper rod connections from Pegasus.
Thanks again!
Greg

 

Hey Cliff,
I’m gettin ready to place an order for the hardware from Pegasus Racing.
Did you use their castle nuts?
I can’t tell in the old thread pictures.
Thanks!

 

I did not but you could certainly do that. It's not really a situation where just the right torque on the nut matters.

If their site has a mechanical drawing for the nut you should be able to get close and leave enough room for some adjustment one way or another. Myself I just used washers as best I remember. Looks like I used a brass washer to get the spacing right in my pictures. I like the castle nut better!

Found another picture!

 

I ordered several of their bolts with different “grip lengths”.
I really had to rethink and read their measurement data to get the correct overall length for what I need.

 

Greg, looks like you have your linkage well set up there, very nice. Just wanted to add one thing that happened to me. When I first used the speed direct upper rod, since it is a little bigger diameter than the stock rod, it ripped the firewall boot in short order. I put another boot on it and just massaged the hole a little bigger to keep it from happening again. If yours is tight, do it now to save the hassle later on. Looking good buddy!

Bill

 

I can't take credit for this. It's something I saved a few years ago.

 

Thanks Bill,
I noticed that when I saw the hole size in the rubber.
I did cut the hole a little bigger in the boot before I installed it.
Greg

 

Thanks for sharing.
I think this was posted in one of the earlier thread that I read.
I’ve done everything in that posting with the lower rod.
Now I added a steel spacer between the z bar and the upper rod end to create a straighter angle between the clutch pedal and the z bar.
I just measured and ordered all new drilled shank AN bolts, castle nuts and cotter pins to complete the installation.
I’ll post some pictures once it’s all completed.
Thanks again to everyone for their help and experience.
Greg

 

Just a quick update to close this thread out.
I received the AN drilled shank bolts, castle nuts, washers, and cotter pins from Pegasus Racing.
Really nice hardware!
I removed all the fit check hardware and installed the new.
I now have the Speed Direct clutch pedal kit completely installed.
All I need to do is adjust the clutch pedal and it’s done.
Thanks again for all your help with both the lower and upper rod modifications.
Greg