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After replacing the right rear caliper with a rebuilt unit, I can't get brake fluid out of the bleed screws. I am not getting a brake light on the dash with the ignition on and the brake pedal depressed, but did see this light earlier when the old caliper was leaking. I am using a vacuum bleeder, which worked on the left rear caliper, but will have to wait for assistance to try the old fashioned pump the pedal and cycle the bleed screws method. I know I have brake fluid going to the steel brake line, just nothing coming out of the caliper bleed screws. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Might try to take out bleeder and check for obstruction. Especially if it came from a crusty rebuild. Job a safety wire or paper clip in the bleeder. If you take it out it should gravity feed with no bleeder. I typically check them and put antisieze on the threads before I wet them.
If no fluid there then start working upstream. Verifying brake hose not plugged. I had one that was so crusty it was totally plugged and it wasn't all that old but in storage for a while.
Removed both bleeders completely and no fluid comes out of the caliper. Guess I'm condemned to removing the dreaded brake to caliper connection to see if there is fluid that far. Thanks for your help.
You should be able to just crack them to let gravity feed and see who starts leaking. I'd jump to the rubber hose to the hard line first as it's easier to get to.
Loosened both brake line fittings one at a time and both leaked fluid. Can't understand why fluid would not gravity fill the caliper. Maybe I need to give it more time? But it's been 24 hours since I installed the lines and I'd think that's sufficient. Bad caliper? Thanks again for your input and patience.
I'd think with the bleeders closed the air has no incentive to let fluid in reference your overnight comment.
Since you don't have a helper to press the brake you might put the test cup hose on the bleeder left open and the hand pump not hooked up and go have lunch.
Sometimes it will take a while for it fill up and leave the master cover loose but not tight so it can draw.
I know from experience if you left it open and forgot about it darn sure would be a puddle of fluid on the floor in the morning lol..
But strange the vac pump not pulling it. I guess check for obstructions in the caliper too. This rebuild stuff you can assume nothing.
Perhaps rubber brake hose has swelled & collapsed INTERNALLY but is not outwardly apparent.
This happens with some frequency; not rare. When this occurs, the pedal pressure may push fluid past the 'collapse' but often will not return.
Four new replacement type rubber hoses are remarkably inexpensive.
* If the rubber brake hoses are more than Ten years old, it may be prudent to replace them as part of preventive maintenance
Last edited by Rebelyell; Jan 9, 2026 at 03:58 PM.
I had a similar issue with my 78. It ended up being the rubber hose which was 10yrs old, but had no miles and looked brand new. I replaced them with a set of stainless braided hoses from Inland Tube co. Made in the US, all 4 hoses with all the clips and fitting you need for $95. They have a clear plastic hose covering the stainless. Nice stuff.
Saddlehorn
I recommend a pressure bleeder. I'm not kidding. Order one or make one from a garden sprayer. I made mine because I did not want to wait and it has worked so wonderfully that I never bought one.
Also, if you've never changed the brake hoses get some DOT approved stainless hoses from whomever gives you the best deal. I got mine from Van Steel with a wilwood package but lotsa places sell them.
I was going to add a van steel link but their website is acting up.
Saddlehorn
I recommend a pressure bleeder. I'm not kidding. Order one or make one from a garden sprayer. I made mine because I did not want to wait and it has worked so wonderfully that I never bought one.
Also, if you've never changed the brake hoses get some DOT approved stainless hoses from whomever gives you the best deal. I got mine from Van Steel with a wilwood package but lotsa places sell them.
I was going to add a van steel link but their website is acting up.
Saddlehorn
I recommend a pressure bleeder. I'm not kidding. Order one or make one from a garden sprayer. I made mine because I did not want to wait and it has worked so wonderfully that I never bought one.
Also, if you've never changed the brake hoses get some DOT approved stainless hoses from whomever gives you the best deal. I got mine from Van Steel with a wilwood package but lotsa places sell them.
I was going to add a van steel link but their website is acting up.
^^^THIS^^^
AND, a cheap (BUT Clean) garden sprayer can also be quickly adapted for use as an Engine Oil Primer.
* for either sbc or BBC, ya still must have a distributor or dummy dist AND lifters in situ; to bridge across oil galleys.
** Goodridge is top quality brand and manufacturer of D.O.T approved armored brake lines; also has manufacturing in USA and UK.
Last edited by Rebelyell; Jan 10, 2026 at 10:08 AM.
As suggested, consider getting a set of the four flexible brake lines if yours are old. Also, consider using a Phoenix reverse bleeder. You push fluid into the caliper through the brake lines into the master. One person job and foolproof. Bo pressure bleeders, caps on the master etc. Jerry
Here you go. Forum search is your friend. Lots of inputs from lots of folks on the forum.
Mine is a garden sprayer from some local store, Lowe's I think. A flat aluminum plate, with an air fitting, notched underneath such that both side of the master cylinder are supplied, a "gasket" made of inner tube rubber, some tygon tubing, with a little pressure gauge to cover the range from 10 to 20 psig.... and I use a c-clamp to squeeze against the master cylinder.
After replacing the right rear caliper with a rebuilt unit, I can't get brake fluid out of the bleed screws. I am not getting a brake light on the dash with the ignition on and the brake pedal depressed, but did see this light earlier when the old caliper was leaking. I am using a vacuum bleeder, which worked on the left rear caliper, but will have to wait for assistance to try the old fashioned pump the pedal and cycle the bleed screws method. I know I have brake fluid going to the steel brake line, just nothing coming out of the caliper bleed screws. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Curious... Did you reset the piston in the distribution block after the brake light warning the first time?
If you have an air compressor, even a small pancake style, you don't need the garden sprayer part of the pressure bleeder setup. You only need ~10psi pressure on the master cylinder reservoirs to effectively bleed the system. Here's my setup in yet another brake bleeding thread. I used thick plexiglas because I had it on hand, cuts easily, and is see-through to watch the fluid levels.
When my rear passenger caliper would not bleed, I found rusty gunk like you see inside contaminated calipers was clogging the rear crossover metal line. It wasn’t until I disconnected the soft line and pressure flushed it with alcohol did it get pushed out, otherwise I would get barely an ooze from the bleeder. I would not discount a blockage of the metal lines. If the line fittings are not too rusty a disconnect of the line might help find a blockage.
So how do you reset the piston in the distribution block? Thanks
There are two methods I know of, though I've never needed to do it to my cars: stab the brake pedal hard a few times or remove the center electrical contact fitting and center the piston by hand using a small pick or the purpose-made tool.
Completely flushing the system isn't a bad idea, especially if discolored fluid comes out.
Thanks for the input - Help me understand. I think the brake light would come on IF the piston in the distribution block was offset. I have no light when the ignition is on and the brake pedal is depressed. What am I missing
Rear caliper won't bleed
