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I was just reading this thread where another poster had clearance issues with the vacuum brake booster and a blueprint 383, and I expect I will have the same issue with my blueprint 396. I have cast valve covers that are a bit taller than the stock BP covers and they already interfere with my alternator (made a custom mount for it). https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...all-issue.html
My vac booster and master cylinder have been off the car in a dusty garage for 6 years, and they were installed when I bought it in 2013. So they are both old, dirty, and in unknown condition. I was going to buy a new booster and MC, but if I am spending money on new parts I don't want to deal with engine clearance and I do like hydroboost brakes (have them on a couple square body trucks and they are great).
I see CPP makes a kit priced at $900, and a Hydratech similarly equipped with lines and a master cylinder is more like $1200. Lots of threads on here where folks are talking about installing Hydratech kits but I haven't seen anyone running the CPP kit yet and I was curious if anyone has experience with them? I have a few GM truck hydroboost units I was thinking about modifying to fit, but at this point I just want my car to work again and I'd rather spend some money where I can to let me focus on work only I can do and get it going sooner. So DIY is out at this point, whatever I do is going to be a kit of some type.
Those kits are extremely overpriced. A new unit is like $350. Fittings and lines is probably another $200. What you need from them is the adapter (not really). I actually used a billet adapter from a G-body just had to slot the holes a bit to make it work. You will need the special socket if you go the DIY route. Btw you can get one from Amazon with the plate already and just make it work without a fancy billet one. Obviously you will have to cut the rod down and thread it which is what they do for you.
I've incorporated changes into my 1970 Corvette to maximize engine bay room for BB headers. This involves installing a Hydratech hydroboost unit to create extra room for taller than stock valve covers. I've installed a Steeroids rack and pinion just to get rid of the power steering box and rag joint. Both of these items, particularly the steering box, are very likely going to conflict with headers. My Doug's headers now have no spacing problem at all. The AC OEM cold air plenum, located one or two inches from the OEM exhaust manifold, has been removed to clear up a good deal of engine compartment volume. The cold air plenum and evaporator are now behind the passengers dash panel (Vintage Air). The PO mentioned a problem with the alternator bracket. I have a Holley Mid-Mount Accessory drive system that neatly bundles all of accessories in front of the engine block. The Holley system does not interfere with the radiator frame and DeWitts extra thick radiator and its twin electric fans.
With my extra tall valve cover, I have the option of including a valve train stud girdle if I wish. I did have trouble fitting the Doug's BB stainless steel sidepipe headers, due to the slightly higher than stock Brodix heads exhaust ports. Thankfully Carlos at Sanderson Headers seamlessly modified my headers to fit my heads. It's been fun. I regard my retro mod efforts with my 70 as my own engineering project. Except for an L88 hood and 68 backup lights, the exterior looks original. The interior also looks original. The power train and suspension have all been game for retromodding.
I think the 50 year old C3s are beautiful looking just the way they came from the factory.
I have the Hydratech hydroboost on my '69. I wanted to get rid of vacuum due to the high duration cam, and add room from the removal of the booster. Jim at Hydratech was very helpful with install instructions. Very satisfied.
Last edited by C3 Stroker; Jan 21, 2026 at 09:21 PM.
nyciti
Wow. Is that what you used? Do you have pictures you can share?
Originally Posted by nyciti
Those kits are extremely overpriced. A new unit is like $350. Fittings and lines is probably another $200. What you need from them is the adapter (not really). I actually used a billet adapter from a G-body just had to slot the holes a bit to make it work. You will need the special socket if you go the DIY route. Btw you can get one from Amazon with the plate already and just make it work without a fancy billet one. Obviously you will have to cut the rod down and thread it which is what they do for you.
CPP vs Hydratech hydroboost?
