Found loose part by Valves
trying to find out specifically what it is and if I need it.
"The Holley 241-218 valve cover baffles are
bolt-in style aluminum baffles designed for specific Holley valve covers (often the Vintage Series or similar). They are attached to the underside of the valve cover to prevent oil from entering the PCV system.
Installation Method:
- Positioning: The baffles are installed on the inside (underside) of the valve cover, directly underneath the PCV/breather hole.
- Fasteners: They are secured using self-tapping screws that are generally included with the baffle kit.
- Thread Locking: It is recommended to add a thread locking compound to the screws to ensure they do not vibrate loose.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/H...GB410Bx9mYmi_S
Thanks for tracking it down for me! Sounds like i definitely want to replace it.
I did find "most" of the screw head. Looks like it fell off well before i got the vehicle.
I discovered it had what I think is a 160 thermostat in it. Strange considering everything else is stock.
in the bucket of parts that came with it was a 185 thermostat in a nice vintage Napa parts box. If I am not planning on racing or modifying any other parts, would I have any reason to keep a 165 thermostat in it?
let me know if I should have started a seperate thread.
Thermostats are cheap and I would install a new 185 degree high flow.
The high flow design just allows a higher volume of coolant to pass and not restrict the flow as much as some designs will.
As always, put the new thermostat in a pan filled with water on your stove and put in a cooking thermometer so you can watch at what temperature the thermostat starts to open and at what temperature it stays fully open.
Most will start to slowly open at their rated temperature and will be fully open approximately 5-7 degrees above that.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
BTW, a simple "trick" is to drill one or two 1/8" holes in the flat "sombrero" portion so any trapped air easily passes through. The amount of water using this bypass would be quite minimal and have no effect on its function.
Last edited by barkingrats; Mar 7, 2026 at 11:17 PM.
pput the manifold in last night. Torqued it down and let it cure over night.
started putting parts back on the morning and realized I did put the restrictor plate back in the passanger side.
Did I just make a big boo boo and need to tear it back off now?
74 454, so you don’t have to search the thread for this information.
pput the manifold in last night. Torqued it down and let it cure over night.
started putting parts back on the morning and realized I did put the restrictor plate back in the passanger side.
Did I just make a big boo boo and need to tear it back off now?
74 454, so you don’t have to search the thread for this information.
If you live in warmer climates or drive through stop and go traffic, it would be best to install the block off plates.
Cooler climates, driving in cool or cold temperatures you may want to leave the plates out.
Some aftermarket performance aluminum intake manifolds and cylinder heads are cast without any crossover.
Is this car stored for months-long periods ?
You might wish to retain & maintain everything to assist carb achieving & maintaining warm up.
Where I reside, I eschew even a choke.
But heck, we even race on New Years Day
would someone be able to double check my vacuum hoses. I don’t think the previous owner had them hooked up right.
the wiring diagrams and factory assembly manuals I have don’t match my engine design. The EGR valve is in different spots or a AIR pump that I don’t have.
I also should have named the thread intake manifold replacement questions.
This switch is still on order, but I have the 2 lines connecting to the vacuum switch on the thermostat housing.


















